And with only one blade, it doesn't try to drag a ton of gravel with it, as sometimes happens with a double bladed grader.
From:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...eway-scraper-driveway-grader.html#post3350043
Bruce
Max landplane for ATV?
- Thread starter NS Gearhead
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And with only one blade, it doesn't try to drag a ton of gravel with it, as sometimes happens with a double bladed grader.
From:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...eway-scraper-driveway-grader.html#post3350043
Bruce
OP
NS Gearhead
Veteran Member
I guess I'll just build the thing and if it don't work behind the atv it's no biggie. I do have the Jeep up for sale, so that was kind of a consern...
For the time being, I've got attachment points on the center and both sides of the Jeep so I'll have options as to what side of my "track" it grades.
One last question before I start a build thread; what angle should I set the blade? That one posted earlyer towed with the atv seemed very steep. I was thinking 45deg I'm gonna do my best to make the depth adjustable from 1/4" to 1"
For the time being, I've got attachment points on the center and both sides of the Jeep so I'll have options as to what side of my "track" it grades.
One last question before I start a build thread; what angle should I set the blade? That one posted earlyer towed with the atv seemed very steep. I was thinking 45deg I'm gonna do my best to make the depth adjustable from 1/4" to 1"
OP
NS Gearhead
Veteran Member
Oh also; is there any need to taper the rear of the runners? Obviously the front needs to be in order to ride up on the gravel instead of digging in... but should I do the rears also?
Oliver1655
Gold Member
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- Oliver 1655
When you are mentioning angle of blade, are you referring to side to side or the vertical angle for digging? If side to side, for pulling behind an ATV I would have go straight across. It will track much easier for you, especially being lighter weight. The ones which are angles from side to side at designed to pull material from the side of the road to the center of the road which will help to maintain the crown.
As far as the vertical angle, will your cutting edge be curved or straight? A 75-80 degree angle should work fine. I have seen every thing from 45 to 90 degree angles used. If you have a lot of angle, you will have a wider surface trying to make contact with the ground which will actually inhibit the cutting ability. This is why if you look at road graders/maintainers, you will find the blade almost vertical where the cutting edge meets to provide the narrower edge to dig in. Picture a 1/2" wide cutting edge for a vertical blade versus the 3/4" wide the same piece of metal would have in contact with the ground if at a 45 degree angle.
Design: 1 cutting edge which extend below the side runners 3/4 - 1" then spaced back 2-3 feet, another piece of angle iron going across about 1" above the ground at the same vertical angle as a secondary spreader / support for the sides. As far as width, make it about 4-6" wider than your ATV.
Have fun!
As far as the vertical angle, will your cutting edge be curved or straight? A 75-80 degree angle should work fine. I have seen every thing from 45 to 90 degree angles used. If you have a lot of angle, you will have a wider surface trying to make contact with the ground which will actually inhibit the cutting ability. This is why if you look at road graders/maintainers, you will find the blade almost vertical where the cutting edge meets to provide the narrower edge to dig in. Picture a 1/2" wide cutting edge for a vertical blade versus the 3/4" wide the same piece of metal would have in contact with the ground if at a 45 degree angle.
Design: 1 cutting edge which extend below the side runners 3/4 - 1" then spaced back 2-3 feet, another piece of angle iron going across about 1" above the ground at the same vertical angle as a secondary spreader / support for the sides. As far as width, make it about 4-6" wider than your ATV.
Have fun!
TKSalty
New member
I have a 2005 Polaris UTV and I can tell you from experience that UTV/ATVs don't stand up to slow heavy pulling. I had to have my clutch rebuilt twice (about every three years), before I finally learned my lesson and bought a tractor.
If you want to go backwards they need to be tapered. You could make the hitch on it so you can change sides and pull it forward or backwards.
I agree they really are not designed to be worked like that. Something like a Kubota RTV with a hydro trans would probably hold up pretty good.
OP
NS Gearhead
Veteran Member
Hey I never thought of backing up with it! I always figgured I'd somehow need to lift it.
Ok, so if I'm not using the bike, I can build this thing bigger/ heavyer. I think 4' is still my max width just because of the material I have to work with... but what of length? 2', 3' or 4'? I know how they work, and wider/ longer will work better... but the trail has lots of sharp radius peeks and valleys that I don't really want to cut down and fill in.... so keeping it shorter may be better.
What do you guys think?
OP
NS Gearhead
Veteran Member
Here's what the blade looks like;
I was asking about vertical angle. I was thinking more along the lines of a shovel... if you try shoveling with it vertical it won't dig, but the more horizontal you get the better it cuts in.
I was asking about vertical angle. I was thinking more along the lines of a shovel... if you try shoveling with it vertical it won't dig, but the more horizontal you get the better it cuts in.
Do you have a garden tractor you can pull it with?
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