Maybe a Step 'Backwards', But Handy?

[KentT]

Re: Maybe a Step \'Backwards\', But Handy?

Bob,

That's an absolutely great mod. Can you provide a parts list of all the pieces/parts needed to add a single valve?

This looks like a simple solution for those of us making a lot of use of the Aux PTO...

 

[KentT]

Re: Maybe a Step \'Backwards\', But Handy?

Bob,

That's an absolutely great mod. Can you provide a parts list of all the pieces/parts needed to add a single valve?

This looks like a simple solution for those of us making a lot of use of the Aux PTO...

 

[BobRip]

Re: Maybe a Step \'Backwards\', But Handy?

I will try to do a parts description. I just went into Napa and Cavalier tractor to get the parts. I took the hydraulic quick connect with me. You should do this to if you have doubts. It is NPT (National Pipe Thread) 1/4 inch as are all of the threads. I have orderd a valve from Surpluscenter.com


Valve from Surplus center - part number 9-5540-4 1/4" CARBON STEEL BALL V001 359858 - I have not tried this valve yet and don't really know if it will fit, so beware. You might want to wait until I install it. The valve pictured is from Northern and is only rated to 600 PSI. It's working so far, but not recommended.

NAPA may have the rest of the parts, but I got some at Cavalier tractor.

Qty 2 - TEE connector with two swivel females and one male end. 1/4 inch NPT thread. The male is in the center. The ones I got were brass. You may want to use TEEs with three swivel females and get two extra hex nipples.

Qty 1 - 90 elbow - One end swivel female and one male

QTY 2 or 4 (if you have an all female TEE) 1/4 inch NPT hex nipples - Male on both ends.

I put teflon tape on all the threads, leaving the first thread without the tape to keep teflon out of the hydraulic fluid. I don't believe it is needed on the one going into the T female end because the seal is the end of the nipple.

To pull the hose that are in the tubes going back to the drivers area, unscrew the square headed bolt on the top of the tube, pull out the quick connect and lock a vicegrip on hose fitting. I struggled with a 9/16 inch wrench before figuring this out. You may have to cut the tie wrap at the other end of the metal tube.

Disclaimer - Plunbing is not my trade, I just go in and tell the expert at the parts store what I need to do. Good luck and let us know of any changes. I would take the pictures with you to NAPA.

Here is a link surplus center parts surplus center

Good luck,

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

Re: Maybe a Step \'Backwards\', But Handy?

I will try to do a parts description. I just went into Napa and Cavalier tractor to get the parts. I took the hydraulic quick connect with me. You should do this to if you have doubts. It is NPT (National Pipe Thread) 1/4 inch as are all of the threads. I have orderd a valve from Surpluscenter.com


Valve from Surplus center - part number 9-5540-4 1/4" CARBON STEEL BALL V001 359858 - I have not tried this valve yet and don't really know if it will fit, so beware. You might want to wait until I install it. The valve pictured is from Northern and is only rated to 600 PSI. It's working so far, but not recommended.

NAPA may have the rest of the parts, but I got some at Cavalier tractor.

Qty 2 - TEE connector with two swivel females and one male end. 1/4 inch NPT thread. The male is in the center. The ones I got were brass. You may want to use TEEs with three swivel females and get two extra hex nipples.

Qty 1 - 90 elbow - One end swivel female and one male

QTY 2 or 4 (if you have an all female TEE) 1/4 inch NPT hex nipples - Male on both ends.

I put teflon tape on all the threads, leaving the first thread without the tape to keep teflon out of the hydraulic fluid. I don't believe it is needed on the one going into the T female end because the seal is the end of the nipple.

To pull the hose that are in the tubes going back to the drivers area, unscrew the square headed bolt on the top of the tube, pull out the quick connect and lock a vicegrip on hose fitting. I struggled with a 9/16 inch wrench before figuring this out. You may have to cut the tie wrap at the other end of the metal tube.

Disclaimer - Plunbing is not my trade, I just go in and tell the expert at the parts store what I need to do. Good luck and let us know of any changes. I would take the pictures with you to NAPA.

Here is a link surplus center parts surplus center

Good luck,

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

Re: Maybe a Step \'Backwards\', But Handy?

What I like about this is that I have replaced one of the hoses (dropped something on it and cut it) and the new hose is much stiffer and harder to connect and disconnect than the original. Now I don't have to touch it.
Also, have you ever forgotten to close the quick attach and had to disconnect the attachment hoses and reconnect the quick attach? Never again.

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

Re: Maybe a Step \'Backwards\', But Handy?

What I like about this is that I have replaced one of the hoses (dropped something on it and cut it) and the new hose is much stiffer and harder to connect and disconnect than the original. Now I don't have to touch it.
Also, have you ever forgotten to close the quick attach and had to disconnect the attachment hoses and reconnect the quick attach? Never again.

Bob Rip

 

[KentT]

Re: Maybe a Step \'Backwards\', But Handy?

Thanks, Bob. I think this one just moved to the top of my list of future mods. My most commonly used implements are the mini-hoe and grapple bucket, both of which require that "double-disconnect drill"...

 

[KentT]

Re: Maybe a Step \'Backwards\', But Handy?

Thanks, Bob. I think this one just moved to the top of my list of future mods. My most commonly used implements are the mini-hoe and grapple bucket, both of which require that "double-disconnect drill"...

 

[J_J]

Re: Maybe a Step \'Backwards\', But Handy?

Bob, I would replace all brass fittings with steel. Brass is not recommended for high pressure hydraulics circuits. The use of brass would make those parts the weakest link in the hydraulic circuit.

 

[BobRip]

Re: Maybe a Step \'Backwards\', But Handy?

J J, I think these are actually anodizede steel fittings from Cavalier. I checked with a magnet. Thanks for the correction. The nipples from NAPA do not attract a magnet. They are probably not steel. Notice to everybody - Use steel like JJ said. I guess I had better replace the brass when I replace the valve.

JJ, thanks for keeping us straight.
Bob Rip