Mechanical Tilt

[BlackforestBill]

Has anyone developed a mechanical adjusting mechanism for the movable link arm on the modern CUTs?

If you look at the older Fords and JDs they have a crank arm at the top of the right-hand link arm that can be reached from the seat. It's not as handy as hydraulic top-n-tilt but it is an effective way to level your back blade after angling it to one side or the other. Using a wrench to loosen the lock nut and then turning the threaded portion of the link to level my BB is darn near impossible in the snow and cold and takes way too much time. I end up dragging the drive with an uneven blade.

I'm sure I'm not the first person to think of this. Hopefully someone out there has the $100 solution as opposed to the $800 hydraulic T-n-T.

 

[DDT]

Since these theads are in the high dust area it is normal to clean the theads from time to time. Most of the tractors I have had can be greased here, if the arm is not bent it should work faily easy.

 

[shaley]

I thought most CUT's came with a crank up box leveler. Tisco (Tractor Implement and Supply Co) makes several replacement box levelers.
Take a look P/N D2NNN983AWF Box assembly, leveling RH, adjustment is 26" to 32". Tractors: 5000, 7000 (1965-1975), 5600, 5700, 6600, 6700, 7600, 7700 (1975-1981), 5610, 6610, 6710, 7610, 7710 (1981-1991).

 

[jmc]

...an effective way to level your back blade after angling it to one side or the other. Using a wrench to loosen the lock nut and then turning the threaded portion of the link to level my BB is darn near impossible in the snow and cold and takes way too much time. I end up dragging the drive with an uneven blade.

Bill,

To minimize or eliminate the blade tilt change after angling the blade each time, have you tried mounting the attachment so that the vertical blade pivot axis is EXACTLY vertical?

John

 

[BlackforestBill]

DDT, it's not the threads. I keep 'em clean. It's the process of getting of the seat, finding the wrench, etc, etc.. gotta be an easier way.

Shaley, thanks for the pointer into TISCO. That one in particular wont fit my little BX, but something in there might. I'll peruse their inventory and see what hits.

John, I think I understand what you're saying. The plate the blade pivots on needs to be perfectly level. It's normally not. I've redrilled it to give some extra tilt so I don't drag up so much of my roadbase. I'll try leveling it better when I put it back together.

I've got the 3ph link arms off right now converting from turnbuckles to the sliders. A friend has a full machine shop and is fab'ing me some custom parts. I'll post pix when I get it back. I'll check out how hard it will be to level when I put it all back together next weekend (I hope).

 

[schmism]

this cranky crank kind came standard on my TC

little hard to crank by hadn when i have the full weight of the attachment sitting on it, so with a little feathering of the 3pt i can get it done....

 

[BlackforestBill]

Schmism,

That's exactly the kind of thing I'm looking for. Unfortunately Kubota made the 3PH on my BX so the top of the lift arm is under the sheet metal. Still it might work.

How long is that adjustable lift arm? I might be able to adapt on to my BX with some thought, a cut off saw and a welder. Know of a good source for the part?

 

[BTDT]

How often do you adjust the tilt? If you want it level all the time, just buy another non-adjustable link for the other side (side with adjustment). Then it will hang level all the time. But if you adjust it on a regular basis, that won't work.

 

[BlackforestBill]

I don't adjust it as often as I could/should because of the inconvenient way it's done. This time of year I need to adjust it whenever I swing the backblade from straight to angled while moving snow. That means several times each time I drag the snow off the drive.

Part of the problem may be because I don't have the BB leveled. Waiting to put things back together to test that out. Still I'd like to be able to more easily level it but I don't need to do it often enough to spring for the hydraulic T-n-T ($800 or so).

I've been checking some of the other CUTs. Deere uses the same type of system Kubota uses, think of something similar to the adjustable top-link. NH has the crank as shown in Schmism's post, but they don't have it on their sub-compacts. Those also have the turnbuckle type system. Looks like the crank isn't a common solution.

 

[BTDT]

This might be an option, don't know if you would want to try it on a new blade. Rework how it hooks to tractor. Instead of pins, use long bar, one side hole would be "stationary", the other side would be slotted. In lower slot, blade would be level. To make it tilt, back up, this would cause bar to slide to back of slot, then lift 3ph a little till it comes to top of cutout, then pull forward and it would slide into top slot. Automatic (?) tilt. Would only work going forward though. Might not work at all.


I thought some more, and maybe it would be easier to move adjustable tilt to implement instead of tractor. Once again, may be more trouble than it's worth.

 

[Gilford]

When I plow snow with my rear blade, I remove the tilt pin which allows the blade to follow the countours of the ground. This would also make up for the need to level the blade using the adjustable link. I also added some coil springs to return the blade to horizontal after I lift the blade from the ground. Without the coil springs to return the blade to horizotal, the blade could tilt to one side and either gouge the ground, or catch on something. If your rear blade has the tilt feature, this may be another solution.

 

[BlackforestBill]

Blades with built-in tilt. Now I'm getting jealous . Mine doesn't have that. All the tilt I get is with the tractor's lift arm adjustment. And I'm way to cheap to replace it.

 

[BlackforestBill]

Michael, that's a very interesting couple of ideas. I may be able to do something like that. I'll definitely let you know if I do. I especially like the idea of putting the tilt adjustment on the implement.

 

[638]

Bill,

Replace the lift links with chain. I fashioned hooks on the uper arms and a length of chain to the lower arms. This allows the blade to follow the contour of the ground. You can also adjust the amount of lift by rehooking the chains. I have a picture, if I can figure out how to post it I will.

ron

 

[638]

Hope this works. Note in the picture that I have replaced the little pin that retains the spreader bar attachment plate in place with a 3/4 inch nut welded in place and a 1 1/2 inch bolt inserted in to lock the plate in place. I turned about 1/2 inch of the threads off of the bolt to keep from screwing up the threads. Works great, no more little pin to drop on a cold day.

ron

 

[BlackforestBill]

Elegant in its simplicity. I love it!!!

I could put the chains on in the fall when I drop the mower and put the back blade on. Then put the hard arms back on in the spring when I need them for recrowning the drive. I like that idea.

My entire 3PH assembly is off the tractor right now and with my engineer. A neighbor's 80 year old father is bored and has a full machine shop. I gave him the assembly and the sliders off a B2710. He's custom making parts to put the sliders into work. I showed him pics from this site to give him ideas. He also discovered the "Micky Mouse" adjustable lift arm (his words ). I'm told he took a 30mm socket and welded it in the middle of a heavy wheel then tacked that to the middle of the hex bar on the adjustable leg. That may also give me the adjustablity I'm looking for. But it wont follow contours. I'll do a complete write up with pics once I get it all back.

 

[638]

Looking forward to the pics

ron

 

[HayDR]

The CCM hydraulic toplinks, sidelinks, valves & Top-N-Tilt systems are arriving on Monday April 2. All cylinders have double piloted check valves for safety and anti-creep prevention. Please give us a day to check them in before you call and place your order. We will start taking orders Tuesday April 3. ALL sizes should be available.
Thank you for your patience and support.
Mark Carter