member re-introduction - I have made a purchase
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tacticalturnip
Elite Member
That's a real nice older utility tractor, and that Allied loader looks like a beast in it's own right.
Your patience paid of, that's an extremely clean machine.
Your patience paid of, that's an extremely clean machine.
5030
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
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- 26,992
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Not being front wheel assist makes it much easier to change the rears to bar tread tires because you don't have to worry about the 'lead-lag' ratio. However, not having front wheel assist will limit the useability of the front end loader to some degree.
Couple years go I bought my second M9 via Tractor House and I've sold a number of implements I no longer used through them as well. They are very seamless to deal with plus they offer transportation if necessary.
Couple years go I bought my second M9 via Tractor House and I've sold a number of implements I no longer used through them as well. They are very seamless to deal with plus they offer transportation if necessary.
gstrom99
Veteran Member
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- Nov 4, 2015
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- 1,732
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- Greene, Iowa
- Tractor
- Deere 855, Deere 530R zero turn, Allis Chalmers D17 III, Polaris Ranger, Deere 3032E (SIL's), Yamaha Timberwolf 250, Husky saws, H & H 10k and Carry-On trailers
Welcome back.
I actually like those rear tires, but if they don't give the traction you need, I understand. You could just use tubes, but I'd weld up the front wheel - cracks tend to get worse...
I actually like those rear tires, but if they don't give the traction you need, I understand. You could just use tubes, but I'd weld up the front wheel - cracks tend to get worse...
OK, I have removed the front rt tire / rim, the rim with the 'hairline crack' with the plan to install one of the new tires supplied with the purchase.
This tire/rim weighs a ton. I am guessing that it is loaded for weight, so I removed the stem from the valve stem and no air escaped. I stuck a 16penny down the hole and it sunk into about an inch some black tar looking soft solid stuff.
So I put stuff down and come here...
My intention was to clean up the rim, put air in the tire, then spray with soap to find a leak. Then weld over the crack to seal. I'm not sure what I've got now.
This gentleman that sold to me was probably guessing what was going on (as far as the hairline crack) and it looks like next step is take it to the tractor shop or somebody that has tractor tire experience.
This tire/rim weighs a ton. I am guessing that it is loaded for weight, so I removed the stem from the valve stem and no air escaped. I stuck a 16penny down the hole and it sunk into about an inch some black tar looking soft solid stuff.
So I put stuff down and come here...
My intention was to clean up the rim, put air in the tire, then spray with soap to find a leak. Then weld over the crack to seal. I'm not sure what I've got now.
This gentleman that sold to me was probably guessing what was going on (as far as the hairline crack) and it looks like next step is take it to the tractor shop or somebody that has tractor tire experience.
It sounds like they filled it with some type of goo so that it doesn't need air. In that case you will indeed find it easier to buy a new rim.
I was going to say something about that, but he plans to keep it for a while so didn't bother. He may realize that they will work for the purposes he uses them for.
gstrom99
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2015
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- 1,732
- Location
- Greene, Iowa
- Tractor
- Deere 855, Deere 530R zero turn, Allis Chalmers D17 III, Polaris Ranger, Deere 3032E (SIL's), Yamaha Timberwolf 250, Husky saws, H & H 10k and Carry-On trailers
I've heard of filling industrial tires with "foam", so punctures aren't a issue. I don't know what that stuff looks like/is. You may not want/need the extra weight up front. Have it removed from both. Seek out an industrial tire shop (ie: skid steer, fork lift, etc...) , and they should be able to help.
Ok, Since starting this topic, I ordered and received two front rims to install with the new Carlisle front tires included with this deal. Cleaning up and using the existing loaded tires/rims was probably more effort and $$ than ordering new.
Anyway, I received rims today, got the tires mounted and installed. Here is the question - installing the mounted tire onto the tractor the way it came off, both new tire and rim the same as existing, rubbed frame and steering linkage when tightened. So I turned the rim around so that the depth was to the outside instead of inside and it provided plenty clearance. and a little more front width. I reckon this is OK as it mounted up and rode fine. Mounting the rim to the hub seems to be good surface, just backwards of what it was. Does this make any sense ? or any difference ?
Anyway, I received rims today, got the tires mounted and installed. Here is the question - installing the mounted tire onto the tractor the way it came off, both new tire and rim the same as existing, rubbed frame and steering linkage when tightened. So I turned the rim around so that the depth was to the outside instead of inside and it provided plenty clearance. and a little more front width. I reckon this is OK as it mounted up and rode fine. Mounting the rim to the hub seems to be good surface, just backwards of what it was. Does this make any sense ? or any difference ?