metal roof
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njrqs
Veteran Member
Carl
Yes I was converting to US currency when I said $1 per square foot.
I was working on $2Aus = $1 US.
Cheers
Yes I was converting to US currency when I said $1 per square foot.
I was working on $2Aus = $1 US.
Cheers
Carl_NH
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Neil,
Y'all talk different down there too /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Tho we are all on the same page it seems.
Carl
Y'all talk different down there too /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Tho we are all on the same page it seems.
Carl
heehaw
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how do you cut the metal roofing? i haven't figured out how folks justify the price they want to install a metal roof, the material is not that expensive, so they must figure the labor a lot higher? another thing i am curious about, i have never seen a tin/metal roof that didn't "sweat" and drip, plus i haven't seen to many that didn't just plain leak. one person i know in nothern arkansas put in a carport, used metal roofing and then 3 years later tore it off, put down decking and shingles, he said he got tired of it dripping constantly.
heehaw
heehaw
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
<font color=blue>how do you cut the metal roofing?</font color=blue>
1. Box knife. This is for making cuts lengthwise with the rib pattern. You put in a fresh blade and pull along a rib line or use a straight edge if the desired cut line is between ribs. You pull through making score line. Then usually only two more pulls along the score line and then you can buckle the material and it'll split down along that line easier than it takes to tell about it.
2. Abrasive blade in a saw. The down side on this is the racket and the sparks. But it works, drive you crazy in about two seconds, but it works.
3. Plywood blade turned backwards in saw. This also works but again, racket. Hard on the nerves.
4. Metal blade in saw. They make a carbide blade for circular and chop saws that look like finish blade for wood. If you just looked at the blade you'd think it was for a trim carpenter. But the carbide pieces are rounded off a bit. They're great for doing rebar, pipe, etc. They also work well cutting sheet metal like siding or roofing. They're expensive and don't live long.
5. Saber saw or sawzall. They work, not too noisy, just take forever and three days plus or minus a month.
6. Hand shears or tin snips. They'll wear you out but between them and a box knife you can do it quietly if you don't count the cussin' as racket.
7. Nibblers. Work great. But you have to be extremely carefull with the debris. They kick out what looks like fingernail clippings. They're mean little buggers and there are millions of them. You get them in your clothes which means you bring them home and well, hell can break loose and make a mess when she gets one of those little monsters in between her toes.
8. Power shears or scissors. Work great. You can get swivel headed ones which can make you look like you're smart and good too.
9. Plasma. My weapon of choice. The burn mark is only about a sixteenth of an inch wide and can be wiped off if you're consciencious about such detail. The only down side is sparks. I like sparks so for me that isn't an issue. BTW that's why women like weldors, it's the sparks.
Sweating is a problem. Another problem is screws loosening up and leaking. Standing seam doesn't have that problem but they are the most expensive. Cheap galvalume or just corrogated problems do. If you go that route plan on every five years getting up there with new screws and doing a tightening and replacing as necessary.
The fake aluminum shake roofs are kewl. I thought there was some magic to their installation. On a job we had them put on. I was very impressed with the installation. It appeared to me that after learning the tricks it was easier and faster than composition to install. If I was to want a fifty year roof and the house style and neighborhood justified the investment I'd definately do it but I'd install it myself.
The tricks I saw that the professionals knew that we wouldn't was how to walk on it, how to do the ridge, and how to cut some of the corners. That isn't something that the average guy can't pick up in a coffee break. Then it's a nail gun and being careful and paying attention to detail. But heck that's what you were gonna do anyway right?
1. Box knife. This is for making cuts lengthwise with the rib pattern. You put in a fresh blade and pull along a rib line or use a straight edge if the desired cut line is between ribs. You pull through making score line. Then usually only two more pulls along the score line and then you can buckle the material and it'll split down along that line easier than it takes to tell about it.
2. Abrasive blade in a saw. The down side on this is the racket and the sparks. But it works, drive you crazy in about two seconds, but it works.
3. Plywood blade turned backwards in saw. This also works but again, racket. Hard on the nerves.
4. Metal blade in saw. They make a carbide blade for circular and chop saws that look like finish blade for wood. If you just looked at the blade you'd think it was for a trim carpenter. But the carbide pieces are rounded off a bit. They're great for doing rebar, pipe, etc. They also work well cutting sheet metal like siding or roofing. They're expensive and don't live long.
5. Saber saw or sawzall. They work, not too noisy, just take forever and three days plus or minus a month.
6. Hand shears or tin snips. They'll wear you out but between them and a box knife you can do it quietly if you don't count the cussin' as racket.
7. Nibblers. Work great. But you have to be extremely carefull with the debris. They kick out what looks like fingernail clippings. They're mean little buggers and there are millions of them. You get them in your clothes which means you bring them home and well, hell can break loose and make a mess when she gets one of those little monsters in between her toes.
8. Power shears or scissors. Work great. You can get swivel headed ones which can make you look like you're smart and good too.
9. Plasma. My weapon of choice. The burn mark is only about a sixteenth of an inch wide and can be wiped off if you're consciencious about such detail. The only down side is sparks. I like sparks so for me that isn't an issue. BTW that's why women like weldors, it's the sparks.
Sweating is a problem. Another problem is screws loosening up and leaking. Standing seam doesn't have that problem but they are the most expensive. Cheap galvalume or just corrogated problems do. If you go that route plan on every five years getting up there with new screws and doing a tightening and replacing as necessary.
The fake aluminum shake roofs are kewl. I thought there was some magic to their installation. On a job we had them put on. I was very impressed with the installation. It appeared to me that after learning the tricks it was easier and faster than composition to install. If I was to want a fifty year roof and the house style and neighborhood justified the investment I'd definately do it but I'd install it myself.
The tricks I saw that the professionals knew that we wouldn't was how to walk on it, how to do the ridge, and how to cut some of the corners. That isn't something that the average guy can't pick up in a coffee break. Then it's a nail gun and being careful and paying attention to detail. But heck that's what you were gonna do anyway right?
rancar
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Rick,
<font color=blue>"...how do you cut the metal roofing?..."</font color=blue>
I use a carbide blade in a circular saw. Make sure you use eye goggles as previous poster mentioned sparks. Yes, they do fly and often right in one's face. Also, make sure your cut ends are covered by the ridge cap or tucked under the overlap of the adjoining sheets. Never install with cut ends of sheets overhanging over the eaves. Exposed cut ends on galvanized/galvalume sheets will cause rusting to develop very quickly. If for some reason you can't cover the galvanized cut ends, smooth some GE silicion sealant onto the cut edges to protect it from moisture/rain.
<font color=blue>"...i haven't figured out how folks justify the price they want to install a metal roof, the material is not that expensive, so they must figure the labor a lot higher?..."</font color=blue>
I've installed just about all my metal roofing myself on my barn buildings. Only thing I didn't do was new garage when it was being built and tallest part of main dairy barn (4 stories high)...felt I didn't have the skills or equipment to work at that height and steep pitch....this I contracted out. You're right about the labor....it could be cost prohibitive if one contracts out everything.
<font color=blue>"...i have never seen a tin/metal roof that didn't "sweat" and drip, plus i haven't seen to many that didn't just plain leak..."</font color=blue>
Mine only sweats and drips the early morning dew on summer mornings. The leaks I have are only in the garage roof (built 1984) attributable to contractor I hired to build the garage and he used nails without the rubber grommet washers. This was a big mistake that I wish I had caught him on. Since then, I've had the roof painted with a heavy pigmented aluminum paint and then sealed each nailhead with GE silicon sealent (supposedly guaranteed for 50 years). This has stopped most of the leaks. But, I'll have to say I have thought about ripping this roof off myself several times and re-installing it the proper way....with solid plywood base, roofing paper, and new metal roof with minimal use of nails/screws with the rubber grommets...just enough to keep the roof on.
Bob
<font color=blue>"...how do you cut the metal roofing?..."</font color=blue>
I use a carbide blade in a circular saw. Make sure you use eye goggles as previous poster mentioned sparks. Yes, they do fly and often right in one's face. Also, make sure your cut ends are covered by the ridge cap or tucked under the overlap of the adjoining sheets. Never install with cut ends of sheets overhanging over the eaves. Exposed cut ends on galvanized/galvalume sheets will cause rusting to develop very quickly. If for some reason you can't cover the galvanized cut ends, smooth some GE silicion sealant onto the cut edges to protect it from moisture/rain.
<font color=blue>"...i haven't figured out how folks justify the price they want to install a metal roof, the material is not that expensive, so they must figure the labor a lot higher?..."</font color=blue>
I've installed just about all my metal roofing myself on my barn buildings. Only thing I didn't do was new garage when it was being built and tallest part of main dairy barn (4 stories high)...felt I didn't have the skills or equipment to work at that height and steep pitch....this I contracted out. You're right about the labor....it could be cost prohibitive if one contracts out everything.
<font color=blue>"...i have never seen a tin/metal roof that didn't "sweat" and drip, plus i haven't seen to many that didn't just plain leak..."</font color=blue>
Mine only sweats and drips the early morning dew on summer mornings. The leaks I have are only in the garage roof (built 1984) attributable to contractor I hired to build the garage and he used nails without the rubber grommet washers. This was a big mistake that I wish I had caught him on. Since then, I've had the roof painted with a heavy pigmented aluminum paint and then sealed each nailhead with GE silicon sealent (supposedly guaranteed for 50 years). This has stopped most of the leaks. But, I'll have to say I have thought about ripping this roof off myself several times and re-installing it the proper way....with solid plywood base, roofing paper, and new metal roof with minimal use of nails/screws with the rubber grommets...just enough to keep the roof on.
Bob
njrqs
Veteran Member
Our roofs are cut in the methods mentioned except for a box knife??
Maybe ours are thicker than yours. Normally 0.42mm whatever that is in inches??
Ours don't leak either and are used in Cyclone areas.
Cheers
Maybe ours are thicker than yours. Normally 0.42mm whatever that is in inches??
Ours don't leak either and are used in Cyclone areas.
Cheers
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
That's twenty six gauge. I'm sure someone has the way to convert that to metric.
Standing seam and the aluminum shake don't leak if they're installed correctly. There's also some snap togethers that work great also. But if you're using screws or nails and and it's going through the metal eventually you're gonna have a leak. The metal and the rubber grommet and the framing all move at different rates. Eventually that's gonna come up and react like an aligator in your toilet.
Standing seam and the aluminum shake don't leak if they're installed correctly. There's also some snap togethers that work great also. But if you're using screws or nails and and it's going through the metal eventually you're gonna have a leak. The metal and the rubber grommet and the framing all move at different rates. Eventually that's gonna come up and react like an aligator in your toilet.
jimmoore
Platinum Member
Argee
Silver Member
Around here, we insert 1/2" dow board between the metal and the trusses to alleviate the sweating. Works great.
As far as cutting it, WH has pretty well covered that. My weapon of choice would be the nibblers. I like sparks, but I live in a tinder box ( a stand of white pines) that would go off like a box of fireworks if I had too many./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif
As far as cutting it, WH has pretty well covered that. My weapon of choice would be the nibblers. I like sparks, but I live in a tinder box ( a stand of white pines) that would go off like a box of fireworks if I had too many./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif