Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx

[JB4310]

OK so here's another thought, set the height and the proper level of the A-frame along with the right amount of chain slack, with the curl all the way back. That way you take that curl position out of the equation and just have to get the height of the loader right with some kind of indicator.

Oh, BTW they are talking about wet snow here tomorrow and measurable snow Saturday :confused2: Most of the leaves haven't even fallen yet

I ain't ready for this yet !!!

JB

 

[foggy1111]

OK so here's another thought, set the height and the proper level of the A-frame along with the right amount of chain slack, with the curl all the way back. That way you take that curl position out of the equation and just have to get the height of the loader right with some kind of indicator.

Oh, BTW they are talking about wet snow here tomorrow and measurable snow Saturday :confused2: Most of the leaves haven't even fallen yet

I ain't ready for this yet !!!

JB

I ran out of time to try different set-ups with the loader, chain, and plow.....but I think what you suggest above may be about the easiest way to set my plow up.

I did snap a few more pics.....so I am going to post them below. A few other guys have a similar build underway....and I know how helpful the pics can be. Pic #4 shows the gusset relationship to the JD 300CX loader timing bar....pretty close. IMO these gussets are fundamental in providing the strength needed in my build.

There are lots of ways to do a FEL plow build.....but I think this is a good way for my purposes. A major benefit to my build is that I can remove my plow and have my bucket or grapple back on in a few minutes....with no tools. :thumbsup:

I paid $150 for the old ST80 plow (with no hydraulics). $450 for steel and the welding shop and blade tube. $70. for JD QA Mounts. $140 for sandblast and paint. About $350 for cylinders, hose, X-over valve and JD Couplers. $1060 total.

 

[RoyJackson]

I ran out of time to try different set-ups with the loader, chain, and plow.....but I think what you suggest above may be about the easiest way to set my plow up.

I did snap a few more pics.....so I am going to post them below. A few other guys have a similar build underway....and I know how helpful the pics can be. Pic #4 shows the gusset relationship to the JD 300CX loader timing bar....pretty close. IMO these gussets are fundamental in providing the strength needed in my build.

There are lots of ways to do a FEL plow build.....but I think this is a good way for my purposes. A major benefit to my build is that I can remove my plow and have my bucket or grapple back on in a few minutes....with no tools. :thumbsup:

I paid $150 for the old ST80 plow (with no hydraulics). $450 for steel and the welding shop and blade tube. $70. for JD QA Mounts. $140 for sandblast and paint. About $350 for cylinders, hose, X-over valve and JD Couplers. $1060 total.

Great post, Foggy!!

It sounds like you did the design and parts/material procurement and sourced out the assembly work..so now you're a Project Manager!!! Make sure that goes on your resume!
Even with that timing bar in close proximity to the gussets...well, that structure is all fixed, is it not? Meaning the gussets can never actually touch the bar...am I correct in that?

All told, one really nice job!!! I commend you!

 

[Red Horse]

A given. And even with the 6' blade, if you have two much angle, and a deep wet snow, it will deflect-path of least resistance-instead of moving the snow, the machine moves-and I think I'm close to 4500 lbs.

 

[RoyJackson]

A given. And even with the 6' blade, if you have two much angle, and a deep wet snow, it will deflect-path of least resistance-instead of moving the snow, the machine moves-and I think I'm close to 4500 lbs.

Yep, and that's when steering brakes come in handy...

 

[KennyG]

OK, this may be a dumb question, but I've never actually used a snow plow. All my experience has been with rear blades and pushing snow with the loader. In the case of clearing concrete (which is all my use), do you need the blade chain and A frame hinge? If the A frame was rigidly attached to the subframe that mounts to the loader arms, what would be the problem with just using the loader float and plowing away? This is essentially what I do now with the loader bucket and the only problem is the lack of right/left angle capability meaning I keep filling up the bucket and having to dump it.The rear blade works fine except for the lack of power angle (and the sore neck when pushing backward).

 

[foggy1111]

Great post, Foggy!!

It sounds like you did the design and parts/material procurement and sourced out the assembly work..so now you're a Project Manager!!! Make sure that goes on your resume!
Even with that timing bar in close proximity to the gussets...well, that structure is all fixed, is it not? Meaning the gussets can never actually touch the bar...am I correct in that?

All told, one really nice job!!! I commend you!

Roy...you are correct about the timing bar and fixed relationship. No problems.

Yep....I was designer, project manager and procurement specialist and part-time grunt.....but I got lots of that stuff on my resume....and I ain't planning to go back to work! :laughing: With all my outsourceing....I should name this plow the "Dreamliner"....just like Boeing!

Actually.....I have done this sort of thing all my working life, so I have been down this path a few times. I really had not planned to put hydraulics on the plow in order to keep my costs down.....but what fun is a manual plow?

What makes it difficult is getting put on the back burner for weeks at a time....and not having my tractor in the same location as the plow build for reference and dimensions. The welding shop had some problems visualizing my build at times. They kept wanting to make changes. :mur:

 

[JB4310]

OK, this may be a dumb question, but I've never actually used a snow plow. All my experience has been with rear blades and pushing snow with the loader. In the case of clearing concrete (which is all my use), do you need the blade chain and A frame hinge? If the A frame was rigidly attached to the subframe that mounts to the loader arms, what would be the problem with just using the loader float and plowing away? This is essentially what I do now with the loader bucket and the only problem is the lack of right/left angle capability meaning I keep filling up the bucket and having to dump it.The rear blade works fine except for the lack of power angle (and the sore neck when pushing backward).

No problem, that's how all the factory FEL snow plows are made.

Foggy could do that with his easily if he chose to, but maybe his design will be better. There will probably be pros and cons to both methods.
It will take some real use to figure those out.

JB.

 

[4shorts]

OK, this may be a dumb question, but I've never actually used a snow plow. All my experience has been with rear blades and pushing snow with the loader. In the case of clearing concrete (which is all my use), do you need the blade chain and A frame hinge? If the A frame was rigidly attached to the subframe that mounts to the loader arms, what would be the problem with just using the loader float and plowing away? This is essentially what I do now with the loader bucket and the only problem is the lack of right/left angle capability meaning I keep filling up the bucket and having to dump it.The rear blade works fine except for the lack of power angle (and the sore neck when pushing backward).

When I did mine I didn't use the chain. I needed to have down pressure. Most of the time our snow is wet and will compact so you need down pressure to cut it. I'm also plowing on pavement all the time and not gravel.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/131136-snow-plow-adapted-front-end.html

 

[foggy1111]

When I did mine I didn't use the chain. I needed to have down pressure. Most of the time our snow is wet and will compact so you need down pressure to cut it. I'm also plowing on pavement all the time and not gravel.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/131136-snow-plow-adapted-front-end.html

Good post 4shorts. I think a person could debate the merits of floating the plow vs floating the loader....and hard surface vs gravel use.....for a looong time. I struggled with which way to build my FEL plow until thinking it through.

There may be no right answer for everyone or every situation. The logic in my build is to keep the plow as lightweight as practical and use the slit-tube to provide the float. I'm not certain if less weight will scrape less dirt and gravel....but I'd like to believe it's better for my needs than more weight riding on shoes over my rough ground....and that is how these plows were designed to operate.

I think that if I had pavement to plow I would have skid shoes and float the loader as you do....to take advantage of extra weight and down pressure with the loader.

I think it's a basic decision a FEL plow builder has to make. However....if I change my mind after using my set-up......it could easily be converted to make the plow rigid with the frame and then float the loader as you do. Either way....it's still compact with the tractor.