MF 1240 Only 1st gear works

[gezster]

A helper was running my tractor today and apparently the clutch started slipping and now only 1st gear seems to work. Put it into 2nd or higher and it does nothing but can smell something burning. No unusual sounds etc. I figure he's burned up the clutch and now it just keeps slipping in any higher gear but wanted another opinion. Any idea of cost to put in a new clutch?

Thanks
George

 

[MFRED]

Sounds like you need a new clutch for sure. You should be able to get an aftermarket reman clutch kit for that machine for around $500-$600. If a shop is going to do it figure better than double that with labor and new fluid for the transmission. May diifer slightly if it has a backhoe and or loader. Make sure the flywheel is refaced too.

Also spend the time to train the helper about the clutch before he runs it again.

 

[gezster]

Sounds like you need a new clutch for sure. You should be able to get an aftermarket reman clutch kit for that machine for around $500-$600. If a shop is going to do it figure better than double that with labor and new fluid for the transmission. May diifer slightly if it has a backhoe and or loader. Make sure the flywheel is refaced too.

Also spend the time to train the helper about the clutch before he runs it again.

Ok I'm trying to figure out what all parts I will need to buy. I've got a friend that is going to help me replace the clutch. I've never worked on the tractor other than fluid changes etc.. but I have been inside several motorcycle engines. I went to agcopartsbook and found the part number for the clutch disc - 3703735M92 Item number 1.

I looked up this part number and found cross referenced kits with part number M3703705NU that comes with a new pressure plate, disc, and hub for around $350. Is that all that I need to buy? Any other bushings / gaskets / seals etc I should replace while I have it split? Also I found a new clutch disc for under $100. Would it be foolish to just replace the disc?

Also since I got the tractor (2nd owner) I noticed that there is a small leak coming from under the tractor. I'm not sure what the tube is (probably a drive shaft - about 2" diameter). It exits the bottom of the transmission case. Both ends appear to leak a few small drops each while parked. I can't tell if the fluid is dirty hydraulic oil or dirty motor oil. There isn't enough to really tell. I figure I should fix this while I'm working on it. What exactly is this tube so I can find the right o-rings / seals needed to fix the leak.

Thanks

 

[The kid]

Ok I'm trying to figure out what all parts I will need to buy. I've got a friend that is going to help me replace the clutch. I've never worked on the tractor other than fluid changes etc.. but I have been inside several motorcycle engines. I went to agcopartsbook and found the part number for the clutch disc - 3703735M92 Item number 1. View attachment 289608

I looked up this part number and found cross referenced kits with part number M3703705NU that comes with a new pressure plate, disc, and hub for around $350. Is that all that I need to buy? Any other bushings / gaskets / seals etc I should replace while I have it split? Also I found a new clutch disc for under $100. Would it be foolish to just replace the disc?

Also since I got the tractor (2nd owner) I noticed that there is a small leak coming from under the tractor. I'm not sure what the tube is (probably a drive shaft - about 2" diameter). It exits the bottom of the transmission case. Both ends appear to leak a few small drops each while parked. I can't tell if the fluid is dirty hydraulic oil or dirty motor oil. There isn't enough to really tell. I figure I should fix this while I'm working on it. What exactly is this tube so I can find the right o-rings / seals needed to fix the leak.

Thanks

The pressure plate if servicable will need resurfacing. You need to pressure wash the tractor to find your leak which will give clues as to it's origin. Your leak is either engine oil (rear main seal) or hydraulic oil that could leak from several points on the tranny. If it's a few drops, I wouldn't bother with it. Your going to have to dump your hydro oil reguardless if your doing it yourself.

If your going to attempt this yourself, it's best to have a factory service manual to properly install and adjust it. You will need a clutch alignment tool as well. If you've never split a tractor before to replace a clutch, my suggestion is to think twice before doing it yourself. It's a big job.

 

[gezster]

The pressure plate if servicable will need resurfacing. You need to pressure wash the tractor to find your leak which will give clues as to it's origin. Your leak is either engine oil (rear main seal) or hydraulic oil that could leak from several points on the tranny. If it's a few drops, I wouldn't bother with it. Your going to have to dump your hydro oil reguardless if your doing it yourself.

If your going to attempt this yourself, it's best to have a factory service manual to properly install and adjust it. You will need a clutch alignment tool as well. If you've never split a tractor before to replace a clutch, my suggestion is to think twice before doing it yourself. It's a big job.

Luckily I don't have to do it by myself and my buddy has done a few in the past. I can't seem to find the correct alignment tool sold anywhere though. I already ordered the service manual. Anyone know where to find the tool? The kits I've found do not mention including it.

 

[MFRED]

Very foolish to just replace the disc. Get a new release bearing & pilot bearing. Should do the rear main while you're in there. Check the adapter plate bolts behind the flywheel to be sure they're good & tight.

 

[The kid]

Luckily I don't have to do it by myself and my buddy has done a few in the past. I can't seem to find the correct alignment tool sold anywhere though. I already ordered the service manual. Anyone know where to find the tool? The kits I've found do not mention including it.

Alignment tools are usually sold thru an AGCO dealer they are usually made of plastic and will keep you from damaging your new parts.. The service manual is a must. MFRED's advise is solid

 

[gezster]

Very foolish to just replace the disc. Get a new release bearing & pilot bearing. Should do the rear main while you're in there. Check the adapter plate bolts behind the flywheel to be sure they're good & tight.

Thanks that is what I needed to hear. The service manual should arrive next week. I will go ahead and order the parts. Will call my local dealer and see if they can get me the tool.

I found the oil leak. Motor oil leaking from the drain plug onto the 4wd drive shaft. Turns out the plug was loose (The oil was just changed 50 hours ago by the dealer prior to my purchasing it). Snugged it up and let it idle for a bit and no more leak. Once I got under the tractor I could finally tell what was going on.

 

[gezster]

We finally got around to splitting the tractor. The clutch pads were all worn down. The housing was full of hydraulic fluid. Looks like a seal on the input shaft has leaked. I bought the rear main seal as suggested but didn't think about the transmission side. From the parts diagram it looks like there are 3 different seals and an o-ring. I guess I should order all of them and replace them all since I'm in it this deep already.

Attached is the parts diagram of the input shaft. #4, #5, and #9 are all listed as seals. In the earlier post the clutch diagram #19 is the o-ring. Anything else I should take care of while I'm in it.

Also the input shaft at the pilot bearing is worn down making the replacement bearing loose. The original "pilot bearing" was actually just a bushing. My buddy said just leave it as is but figured I'd ask you guys your opinion. A replacement input shaft is almost $300.

Edit to add side cut away diagram. In this diagram #3 is the #4 seal in the parts diagram.#5 and #9 are the same. I presume I need to replace all 3 of these seals. Hopefully someone can confirm.


Thanks

 

[Workstead]

I've been following this thread because I have an MF 1250. I have some fluid leaking and I may need to replace the clutch. Could you give us and update on how you are making out?

Clem

 

[gezster]

I've been following this thread because I have an MF 1250. I have some fluid leaking and I may need to replace the clutch. Could you give us and update on how you are making out?

Clem

Got the tractor back up and running. I ended up replacing all the transmission side seals and the rear main seal. Important to note the replacement rear main seal is slightly wider than the original and does not seat 100% there is about 1/16" remaining. We ended up having to break the tractor in half a 2nd time because the 1st attempt at seating the new rear main failed. I should note that the rear main after the 2nd replacement leaked a few drops for the first half hour of run time. After which it finally got a good seal and havent had any more leaks. We ended up reusing the original pilot bushing as it fit better than the new bearing.

I ended up buying most my parts from jackssmallengines. I needed a few seals in a hurry and my local dealer was able to get them next day for a premium. All total I ended up spending about $600 doing the repair (parts and fluids). Expect to spend 4 to 5 hours splitting the tractor and then another 4 to 5 putting it back together. Also make sure and readjust all your shift linkages after putting it back together.

Go ahead and do all your engine oil and hydraulic oil changes while you are working on it.

If you need a list of part numbers for everything let me know and I'll post everything I purchased. I highly suggest buying every seal and oring before your begin. You might as well replace them all while you have it open even if they aren't leaking yet. The transmission side was about $40. The rear main is around $45. The clutch kit was around $330. The release bearing was around $40 as well.

Also no one sells a alignment tool for our clutch. You will need either a universal tool or make your own. I can't remember where my buddy found the universal one but it was like $45 from one of the car part shops.

BTW Napa has the filters for the tractor instock. I ended up paying $16 plus tax for hydraulic / oil / fuel filters. I don't know how it was so cheap as the price on website was around $30 total.

 

[Workstead]

Oops. Duplicate post





























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[Workstead]

Wow. Good job. Sounds like a lot of work.

I adjusted my clutch free play the other day and I have it at the maximum and still have some clutch slippage. I don't have a buddy to help change the clutch nor make any of the proper adjustments. You are fortunate to have one.

I also need new turf tires, mine are bald.

Maybe I need to upgrade my tractor.

Clem

 

[Workstead]

Got the tractor back up and running. I ended up replacing all the transmission side seals and the rear main seal. Important to note the replacement rear main seal is slightly wider than the original and does not seat 100% there is about 1/16" remaining. We ended up having to break the tractor in half a 2nd time because the 1st attempt at seating the new rear main failed. I should note that the rear main after the 2nd replacement leaked a few drops for the first half hour of run time. After which it finally got a good seal and havent had any more leaks. We ended up reusing the original pilot bushing as it fit better than the new bearing.

I ended up buying most my parts from jackssmallengines. I needed a few seals in a hurry and my local dealer was able to get them next day for a premium. All total I ended up spending about $600 doing the repair (parts and fluids). Expect to spend 4 to 5 hours splitting the tractor and then another 4 to 5 putting it back together. Also make sure and readjust all your shift linkages after putting it back together.

Go ahead and do all your engine oil and hydraulic oil changes while you are working on it.

If you need a list of part numbers for everything let me know and I'll post everything I purchased. I highly suggest buying every seal and oring before your begin. You might as well replace them all while you have it open even if they aren't leaking yet. The transmission side was about $40. The rear main is around $45. The clutch kit was around $330. The release bearing was around $40 as well.

Also no one sells a alignment tool for our clutch. You will need either a universal tool or make your own. I can't remember where my buddy found the universal one but it was like $45 from one of the car part shops.

BTW Napa has the filters for the tractor instock. I ended up paying $16 plus tax for hydraulic / oil / fuel filters. I don't know how it was so cheap as the price on website was around $30 total.

I would appreciate your list of parts. I have an MF 1250 but I will closely check to see if there are any differences between the two models. Do you also have the NAPA part numbers for the filters?

Thanks,

Clem

 

[Leot]

I would appreciate your list of parts. I have an MF 1250 but I will closely check to see if there are any differences between the two models. Do you also have the NAPA part numbers for the filters?

Thanks,

Clem

I have a 1240 and need to replace the clutch. Can you provide the list of part numbers? thanks

leo