LC '92 said:
That little 135 is resting nicely in my barn as I type this. I think its the first time it has been under roof in years. It should stay nice and dry in there and last many more years I'm hoping. Note my updated signature!
At any rate, went to the dealer today and he said OK to the $2,500.00. Also said OK to changing the differential fluid in that cost but that it would be next week before they could get around to it. Said that it was normally a $150.00 charge for doing it. I said, "why don't you just knock off the $150.00 and I'll change it myself?". He says OK and I write him a check for $2,350.00. He power washed it for me and I load it on the trailer for the trip home. He scrounged around in the back of this shop and found and included an original owners manual for it.
Stopped off at the gas station and fueled it up. ($3.45 a gallon!) Didn't get to play with it much but did discover that it does not have a live PTO.
This weekend I'll change the differential fluid and motor oil. What kind of oil do y'all run in the Perkins diesel?
During the years the 135 was in production, the chief source of competition in the 35/40 hp class utility market was from Ford. As direct competition for the 135, Ford offered the 2000 and 3000. The 3000 more closly matched up, with the 2000 as a cheaper alternative. To compete with the lower priced 2000, Massey Ferguson sold a version of the 135 (actually designated as a 138 but still badged as a 135) that was essentially a 135 with a few LESS bells and whistles. Primarily, that meant no live power. I've NEVER seen one with a differential lock and no live power. (and was told by a MF dealer there was no such critter) As the production run of the 135 went along, there were less and less of the 138's built, in favor of the slightly more expensive 135 DELUXE (model W/live power, ect) By offering a competitive price to the 2000 with the horsepower of a 135 (and 3000 Ford), Massey sold a boatload of the 138's. And that higher production of what was still one basic model allowed MF to hold down production cost. MF also marketed the 150 (see my photo's above) that was very simular to the 135 with a few parts scavenged from the 165. The basic drivetrain and hydraulics are the same. Net result? lower prices than Ford 2000 or 3000. And that is one of the many reasons why the 135 outsold Fords offering by a wide margin. At one point, 1 out of every 4 tractors sold in the British Isles was a 135 Massey. They were immensely popular in "small farm" areas. Kentucky, Tennesee and Pennsylvania were the #1,2,and 3 states in the US for MF135 sales.
Get an over-riding clutch for use with a mower and you'll do just fine. (Goes on PTO stub between tractor and mower pto shaft)
When those tractors were new, it was recommended to use SAE20 in the winter and SAE30 in summer. Forget that idea. Use 15/40 diesel rated oil now. (Shell Rotella, Pennzoil, ect) I'd suggest changing oil now, then again after a few hours of use. Also, if it still has the ORIGINAL cannister type filter, make certain the filter element is "spring loaded". There's a spring and washer that goes below the filter element. The bolt that holds everything in place passes through that spring/washer. It's very common to find these tractors where that spring is missing. If so, the filter doesn't seal to the block and oil will literally bypass the filter. You can get a filter head (from a 235/245, ect) that will allow use of an automotive spin-on type filter. MUCH more convenient. Filter head is available aftermarket or through MF/AGCO. They show up all the time on EBAY.
Every TO20/TO30/TO35/F40/MH50/MF35/MF50/MF65/MF135/MF150/MF165 I've ever changed rear end oil in, I ALWAYS flush it before re-filling. Drain completely. There's TWO drain plugs. One under the transmissin and another below the rear end housing. BOTH need to be drained. It's one common sump, but leaving one or the other drain plug in leaves about 1-1/2 gallons of oil in the sump. After draining, re-install the plugs. Put 2-1/2 to 3 gallons of diesel fuel/kerosene in the sump. (Filler plug is next to 1-2-3-R shifter lever) Start the tractor and drive it forward and backward WITHOUT A LOAD for a few minutes. Work the 3-point lift up and down a couple times, ending up with that in the DOWN position. Shut it off and drain again. You will be astounded at how much dirt and debris that will flush out. Diesel is a lightweight lubricant and WILL NOT hurt gears, bearings, pump, ect, so long as it's not used for great length of time or under a load. Let the flush drain for a while. Then re-fill w/ Hy-tran (Universal tractor lubricant). Earlier Ferguson/Massey Fergusons needed a different type of hydraulic oil. The 135 uses the more common hy-tran. It takes right at 8 gallons of oil to re-fill the rear end. Pump will self prime on start-up
With the draft control lever and POSITION control lever in the raised position, you'll probably hear a "knocking" sound. Not to worry. That's the relief valve cycling. (hydraulic pump) Common on all 100 series Massey's.
You got yourself a really good buy. That tractor would EASILY bring $2000 more here.
