MF-135 at local trator lot

   / MF-135 at local trator lot #11  
LC '92 said:
That little 135 is resting nicely in my barn as I type this. I think its the first time it has been under roof in years. It should stay nice and dry in there and last many more years I'm hoping. Note my updated signature! :)

At any rate, went to the dealer today and he said OK to the $2,500.00. Also said OK to changing the differential fluid in that cost but that it would be next week before they could get around to it. Said that it was normally a $150.00 charge for doing it. I said, "why don't you just knock off the $150.00 and I'll change it myself?". He says OK and I write him a check for $2,350.00. He power washed it for me and I load it on the trailer for the trip home. He scrounged around in the back of this shop and found and included an original owners manual for it.

Stopped off at the gas station and fueled it up. ($3.45 a gallon!) Didn't get to play with it much but did discover that it does not have a live PTO.

This weekend I'll change the differential fluid and motor oil. What kind of oil do y'all run in the Perkins diesel?

During the years the 135 was in production, the chief source of competition in the 35/40 hp class utility market was from Ford. As direct competition for the 135, Ford offered the 2000 and 3000. The 3000 more closly matched up, with the 2000 as a cheaper alternative. To compete with the lower priced 2000, Massey Ferguson sold a version of the 135 (actually designated as a 138 but still badged as a 135) that was essentially a 135 with a few LESS bells and whistles. Primarily, that meant no live power. I've NEVER seen one with a differential lock and no live power. (and was told by a MF dealer there was no such critter) As the production run of the 135 went along, there were less and less of the 138's built, in favor of the slightly more expensive 135 DELUXE (model W/live power, ect) By offering a competitive price to the 2000 with the horsepower of a 135 (and 3000 Ford), Massey sold a boatload of the 138's. And that higher production of what was still one basic model allowed MF to hold down production cost. MF also marketed the 150 (see my photo's above) that was very simular to the 135 with a few parts scavenged from the 165. The basic drivetrain and hydraulics are the same. Net result? lower prices than Ford 2000 or 3000. And that is one of the many reasons why the 135 outsold Fords offering by a wide margin. At one point, 1 out of every 4 tractors sold in the British Isles was a 135 Massey. They were immensely popular in "small farm" areas. Kentucky, Tennesee and Pennsylvania were the #1,2,and 3 states in the US for MF135 sales.

Get an over-riding clutch for use with a mower and you'll do just fine. (Goes on PTO stub between tractor and mower pto shaft)

When those tractors were new, it was recommended to use SAE20 in the winter and SAE30 in summer. Forget that idea. Use 15/40 diesel rated oil now. (Shell Rotella, Pennzoil, ect) I'd suggest changing oil now, then again after a few hours of use. Also, if it still has the ORIGINAL cannister type filter, make certain the filter element is "spring loaded". There's a spring and washer that goes below the filter element. The bolt that holds everything in place passes through that spring/washer. It's very common to find these tractors where that spring is missing. If so, the filter doesn't seal to the block and oil will literally bypass the filter. You can get a filter head (from a 235/245, ect) that will allow use of an automotive spin-on type filter. MUCH more convenient. Filter head is available aftermarket or through MF/AGCO. They show up all the time on EBAY.

Every TO20/TO30/TO35/F40/MH50/MF35/MF50/MF65/MF135/MF150/MF165 I've ever changed rear end oil in, I ALWAYS flush it before re-filling. Drain completely. There's TWO drain plugs. One under the transmissin and another below the rear end housing. BOTH need to be drained. It's one common sump, but leaving one or the other drain plug in leaves about 1-1/2 gallons of oil in the sump. After draining, re-install the plugs. Put 2-1/2 to 3 gallons of diesel fuel/kerosene in the sump. (Filler plug is next to 1-2-3-R shifter lever) Start the tractor and drive it forward and backward WITHOUT A LOAD for a few minutes. Work the 3-point lift up and down a couple times, ending up with that in the DOWN position. Shut it off and drain again. You will be astounded at how much dirt and debris that will flush out. Diesel is a lightweight lubricant and WILL NOT hurt gears, bearings, pump, ect, so long as it's not used for great length of time or under a load. Let the flush drain for a while. Then re-fill w/ Hy-tran (Universal tractor lubricant). Earlier Ferguson/Massey Fergusons needed a different type of hydraulic oil. The 135 uses the more common hy-tran. It takes right at 8 gallons of oil to re-fill the rear end. Pump will self prime on start-up

With the draft control lever and POSITION control lever in the raised position, you'll probably hear a "knocking" sound. Not to worry. That's the relief valve cycling. (hydraulic pump) Common on all 100 series Massey's.

You got yourself a really good buy. That tractor would EASILY bring $2000 more here.
 
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   / MF-135 at local trator lot #12  
Those are great tractors/ I remember driving the 135 & 150 models years ago when we were farming tobacco, soybeans,etc. Long,hot,dusty days. I just did not know at the time how much fun I was having. btw, FWJ yours looks GREAT.
 
   / MF-135 at local trator lot
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Well, I bought a new oil cartridge, some Shell oil, 10 gals of hydraulic fluid, and a gallon of anti-freeze. I'm gonna change every fluid in the 135 that I can this weekend. FWJ, thanks for all your tips, they should make the process much easier. I will investigate the PTO further to make sure I know what I'm talking about. I sure hope I'm wrong and it's live.

Honestly, I got a new Ford pickup yesterday and I'm more excited about the 135 than the truck!

I'll look at this thread again on Monday and add any comments or complaints.

Thanks for all the help and pleasurable chat.
 
   / MF-135 at local trator lot #14  
LC '92 said:
Well, I bought a new oil cartridge, some Shell oil, 10 gals of hydraulic fluid, and a gallon of anti-freeze. I'm gonna change every fluid in the 135 that I can this weekend. FWJ, thanks for all your tips, they should make the process much easier. I will investigate the PTO further to make sure I know what I'm talking about. I sure hope I'm wrong and it's live.

Honestly, I got a new Ford pickup yesterday and I'm more excited about the 135 than the truck!

I'll look at this thread again on Monday and add any comments or complaints.

Thanks for all the help and pleasurable chat.

If you get a chance, pass along the serial #. I can tell you with-in a few weeks when it was built. If it's earlier than a '66 model, the serial # will tell what type of clutch it has. (single stage/2-stage)
 
   / MF-135 at local trator lot #15  
Sounds like you got a good tractor. We have a 1965 model that my grandfather purchased from a neighbor in 1966. It's a very solid and useful tractor. the only bad thing about it is that at some point the clutch was changed and it has 175 springs and is hard to push down. also, the serial number tag is gone. none of the electrical stuff works anymore but it gets used a lot. my other grandfather has a 3000 Ford with no power steering and though the Ford is a little more powerful, the 135 is much more operator-friendly. After running that Ford all day in tobacco and then getting on the 135 it seemed like going from a dump truck to a Cadillac. you'll be well pleased with yours. mine is going to see a lot of use in the tobacco field this summer.
 
   / MF-135 at local trator lot
  • Thread Starter
#16  
It is done. Got all the fluids changed and, as I supposed, I had it all wrong and it does have a live PTO.

I think the next project will be converting that little cartridge oil filter to a spin on type. The gasket kept blowing out and spewing my $$$ Shell Rotella all over the place. Finally got it sealed up tight.

Drained the hydro fluid and it looked like I was draining beige latex paint. After it finished I dumped in 3 gallons of diesel, exercised it a couple of minutes, then drained that too. It was the color and consistency of that bottled Starbucks coffee I see all those young people buying at the convenience stores. Put in a little over 8 gallons of new fluid and buttoned her up. Pumped in an entire tube of grease into all the zerk fittings I could find and it now runs and operates perfectly.

I hooked up my 5 foot Brush-Hog shredder but no tall weeds to play in so I just tinkered with the controls to get used to them.

I just installed a welded pipe gate/cattle guard combo at my place that is very heavy. I need to drag it over about 6 feet to center it and connect my fence to it. My little B-7800 Kubota 4WD will not budge it. The first project for the 135 will be to drag this thing into place. I'm betting it will be able to.

Next project is to disc up 5 acres of land that has been fallow for 20 years. Lots of clumpy grass and dewberry vines and with my Kubota and light disc, all I can do is get some light scratches and shallow penetration. I'm gonna borrow my friends heavy disc set and turn it up good with the 135.

That little Kubota is great for yard work and finish mowing and moving dirt, but it really lacks the low end horse power and weight to do farm work.

Thanks for all the help posted here. It's so nice to meet neighborly people that want to share their knowledge, help others, and just be nice folks.
 
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   / MF-135 at local trator lot #17  
LC '92 said:
It is done. Got all the fluids changed and, as I supposed, I had it all wrong and it does have a live PTO.

I think the next project will be converting that little cartridge oil filter to a spin on type. The gasket kept blowing out and spewing my $$$ Shell Rotella all over the place. Finally got it sealed up tight.

Drained the hydro fluid and it looked like I was draining beige latex paint. After it finished I dumped in 3 gallons of diesel, exercised it a couple of minutes, then drained that too. It was the color and consistency of that bottled Starbucks coffee I see all those young people buying at the convenience stores. Put in a little over 8 gallons of new fluid and buttoned her up. Pumped in an entire tube of grease into all the zerk fittings I could find and it now runs and operates perfectly.

I hooked up my 5 foot Brush-Hog shredder but no tall weeds to play in so I just tinkered with the controls to get used to them.

I just installed a welded pipe gate/cattle guard combo at my place that is very heavy. I need to drag it over about 6 feet to center it and connect my fence to it. My little B-7800 Kubota 4WD will not budge it. The first project for the 135 will be to drag this thing into place. I'm betting it will be able to.

Next project is to disc up 5 acres of land that has been fallow for 20 years. Lots of clumpy grass and dewberry vines and with my Kubota and light disc, all I can do is get some light scratches and shallow penetration. I'm gonna borrow my friends heavy disc set and turn it up good with the 135.

That little Kubota is great for yard work and finish mowing and moving dirt, but it really lacks the low end horse power and weight to do farm work.

Thanks for all the help posted here. It's so nice to meet neighborly people that want to share their knowledge, help others, and just be nice folks.


Sounds great! Another happy Massey owner!

I was just about sure you were going to have live power. The 135 special (w/o live power) also had a metal pan seat in place of the deluxe seat, and from all I've been told, no differential lock available. No tachometer either. There was also a 135 DELUXE that had power steering, live pto, full instrumentation, Float-Ride seat, and even some with flat-top fenders. Also, a Vineyard and orchard models were available. (Plus the 2135 industrial)

These tractors go back to the era when it was actually FUN to work on things. No electronics, no plastic, no parts made out of "unobtanium", just simple, easy to understand, logically designed components that any shadetree mechanic could deal with. They work well to this day and they run on like the Energizer Bunny.

In a previous post, you said that you thought water could have entered the hydraulic sump/tranny because of a leaky shifter boot. That's ONE way in. (and probably the most common) Also, look at the rubber boot at the base of the MASTER CONTROL SPRING. That's under the seat, right where the 3-point top link attaches. They leak too.

One more thing. The Perkins AD3-152 is probably the easiest starting diesel ever built. I've cold started mine in sub-zero weather and she fires in seconds. But should you ever have any trouble starting yours, (low battery, ect) they HATE ether. Ether isn't "good" for any diesel if you can avoid it, but the ring lands on Perkins pistons will end up in the oil pan with a few ether starts. In 37 years, I've never had call to use ether on mine anyway.
 
   / MF-135 at local trator lot #18  
FWJ,

You make sure that beauty is lined up in between you 2 new MF's for us, so whan you snap the pics, we can see if the 150 looks newer than the other 2!!
Farmwithjunk said:
Great! Another happy Massey owner!

Here's the "BIG DEAN" link

Big Dean's Massey Ferguson tips

Let me know if there's anything I can do to help. In time you'll figure out I'm obsessed with the "DX" series (100 series) Massey's. Best bang for the buck to ever wear tractor tires

Here's a few pictures of what happens when you have a 100 series and too much time on your hands! This one has been with me since new in 1971.
 
   / MF-135 at local trator lot #19  
WilliamBos said:
FWJ,

You make sure that beauty is lined up in between you 2 new MF's for us, so whan you snap the pics, we can see if the 150 looks newer than the other 2!!

The new ones are here, just not "here". They're at my sons place. He's got more space in his shop. I wrote the check but haven't even had the pleasure of climbing in one of them yet. As soon as the batwings show up, we're taking a "group photo" with both new MF's the 2 Deere's and my 150, all hooked up to their mowers. I'm having a few health issues at the moment and have been grounded by son/son-in-laws. All I get to do is pay for everything :eek:
 
   / MF-135 at local trator lot #20  
Well, a grounding like that is not a bad thing. Get all rested up for us so you can enjoy the new tractors. I wonder if the new MF's will be able to keep up with the 150 as far as cold starting is concerned. That little perky is near legendary for being able to cold start if it cannot be plugged in.



Farmwithjunk said:
The new ones are here, just not "here". They're at my sons place. He's got more space in his shop. I wrote the check but haven't even had the pleasure of climbing in one of them yet. As soon as the batwings show up, we're taking a "group photo" with both new MF's the 2 Deere's and my 150, all hooked up to their mowers. I'm having a few health issues at the moment and have been grounded by son/son-in-laws. All I get to do is pay for everything :eek:
 

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