MF 1825E drawbar/tow bar

[GioG]

Years ago I discovered a trailer ball in the under-belly drawbar doesn't work so good. When making a turn the rear tires will hit the trailer tongue rather quickly.
I can mount a trailer ball on my 3-pt hitch drawbar and gain about 18" back from the under-belly drawbar. This allows much sharper turns.
To keep the 3-pt drawbar level, I made a 12" long section of angle iron with a bolt hole in one end and a muffler clamp on the other end to hole the angle iron to the lift arm.
View attachment 1773480

Hi there. I don't quite understand how are you using this clamp above in the photo. Could you please download some pictures so I could visualize it (if is possible).
Thank you kindly.

 

[olenjohn]

Hello everybody. So I noticed that my 1825E MF has a flat tow/draw bar below the PTO, so I went out a buy a 2 5/16 inch hitch ball so I could pull my flat/open trailer around the property, but what I found-out is that those holes on the tow bar are all smaller then the hitch ball shank which is 1.1/4 in. in diameter. does anyone knows if I can find a tow bar with different size holes?
P.S. I looked everywhere with no avail. Thank you all.

Lots of responses telling you to go get a 3 point hitch. If you want to pull from the drawbar like your question asked, just extend the drawbar a few inches. 3x3x1/2” steel angle bolted thru the drawbar 1 1/4” hole with another hole in the angle sized to fit the hitch ball. You may want to add a large square U bolt further up the drawbar to hold the front end of the angle.

 

[CoyPatton]

Several comment -- you should be looking for 2 5/16 hitchball with the smaller shaft, not a different draw bar. They are available. I had the same situation with a Kubota drawbar and smaller hole. The other comment is, since you are planning to pull/maneuver your trailer around the property I have found one of those triangular hitches that fits your 3pt hitch works really well. The triangular rig is much handier because you can raise and lower the ball height above the ground which helps for both hitching and placing the trailer. This may be out of order (not knowing your situation) but they do make bolt-on receiver hitch adapters to fit on the lip of your FEL bucket. Those things are REALLY nice for tight careful maneuvering in putting a trailer into tight spaces etc. Good luck, you have lots of good alternatives.

One caution if you go with the 3PH trailer mover, weight is the only down pressure on your 3PH (at least without an added kit or rather large tractor). There are reasons for this that I will not go into here. What this means is that there is the possibility your trailer tongue could raise up to the limit of your 3PH. This could cause internal damage if it does so with enough force.
Simple solution is to stop (pr at least greatly limit) that travel. A easy solution is to chain the 3PH to limit if not eliminate upward travel.

 

[boatmoter]

got mine from walmart online,they were the best price, then bought a ripper tooth to go with it

 

[CoyPatton]

I did another post say what the poster you asked your question.
1) understand there is no down pressure on our smaller tractors 3PH as designed. There are kits that can place downward pressure, but only advisable in a very few situations as extra down pressure removed traction—mot something you want with almost all 3PH uses.

With that lack of down pressure other than weight, if the tail of the trailer weights more than the tongue of the trailer, the 3PH will raise. Perhaps you are using the tractor trailer to puck up trash following a storm, a heavy item is placed on rear of trailer snd nose goes up as does the 3PH. If this is a hard jar at the tractors internal limits, you could damage tractor’s internals.

 

[Fxfymn413]

Another scenario for the trailer lifting the 3 PH is if you try to raise a dump trailer when its attached to the the 3 PH or if you are trying to load a machine onto the trailer without supporting jacks under the rear of the trailer.

 

[LouNY]

It is even simpler then that;
Lift your lift arms as high as they will go, then start backing up, on anything but a down hill run.
Once your lower lift arms are above parallel to the ground and the load is pushing (down hill or backing up) it is quite likely to force your lift arms higher then the intended amount.

 

[BW in GA]

Many tractor drawbars are also to thick for most trailer balls. The 3 point hitchs are nice and handy but I would advise anyone using those to also use something to limit how high the lift arms can travel. On all tractors that I am aware of with 3 point hitchs the lift arms can be lifted much higher then the hydraulics will lift them.
In my second picture you can see the chain that goes down to a clevis in my drawbar that acts as a limiter to prevent the hitch from being lifted by a trailer and damaging the tractors.
View attachment 1736737View attachment 1736738

Why do you need the yellow pieces that limit how low the hitch will go?

 

[LouNY]

Why do you need the yellow pieces that limit how low the hitch will go?

Those are the parking stands for when I take it off the tractor so it stands up right.
They are just pined on and are easily removed or adjusted.

 

[RayIN]

Hi there. I don't quite understand how are you using this clamp above in the photo. Could you please download some pictures so I could visualize it (if is possible).
Thank you kindly.

Just spotted your question; I'm quite busy this week but I'll try to snap a picture of my brace and upload it ASAP.
I can't put it on my new tractor cat 2, 3 pt-hitch, as I made it for my old MF 135 cat 1.
It bolted to the underside of the 3- pt drawbar at an end-hole, angled to the lift arm, then attached to it with a home-made J clamp.
Hey, you just reminded me of a winter project; making one for my cat 2 3-pt hitch.