That's how the absolute bottom of the barrel, Chicago Electric AC one worked, but 99% of them do not send current without trigger pulled.Oh FFS !!
If it wasn't so dark out I'd go set the thing up again and try to run a bead on the hood of my car.
If it didn't work, I'm no further behind.
If I weld my hood, it's punishment for not thinking of that. I figured the trigger only ran the wire feed. No electricity.
In my defense, the manual is a very poorly translated document, and doesn't actually spell out things like that the way
a "welding for dummies" book might.
Hope that resolves it for ya, and heck man, don't feel bad, we're all human and nobody is an expert on everything (well, most of us commoners, at least ) ... Chalk it up to a learning experience and now you can provide helpful feedback if someone has a similar issue in the future.Oh FFS !!
If it wasn't so dark out I'd go set the thing up again and try to run a bead on the hood of my car.
If it didn't work, I'm no further behind.
If I weld my hood, it's punishment for not thinking of that. I figured the trigger only ran the wire feed. No electricity.
In my defense, the manual is a very poorly translated document, and doesn't actually spell out things like that the way
a "welding for dummies" book might.
I think the majority of the old transformer MIGs kept the wire hot (my Craftsman does too), but my Yes doesn't, only when you pull the trigger.That's how the absolute bottom of the barrel, Chicago Electric AC one worked, but 99% of them do not send current without trigger pulled.
I though only BOTTOM of barrel old 70 AMP HF welder had a full time hot wire.... Guess if most people were no so cheap, they could get a decent welder with trigger control for weld voltage/current/wire feed..... This is why I try to stay towards the middle/upper end of cost/quality.....Kind of learned this working with power tools while doing fabrications for like 60 years now.....I think the majority of the old transformer MIGs kept the wire hot (my Craftsman does too), but my Yes doesn't, only when you pull the trigger.
One thing I learned, if a 110v welder claims much more than 90~100 amps output then it has to be run from a 30 amp circuit - which nobody has, without running a new circuit. At that point you might as well have gone with a 240 v welder and circuit.
Yeah. But there's a limit. 120 volts and 20 amps as input, 120 x 20 =2400 watts.... through modern electrical trickery and magic, they really are able to do a lot more with 120V machines then they could 15 years ago.