Mini Dozer - Project near complete

[ModMech]

Makes me wonder if you could use two electric motors out of golf carts and make one that is electric? Kind of a stealth dozer.....
Use a 1 or 2 hp engine to turn an alternater to charge the batteries when driving, and use the standard charger overnight.....

Actually......

If you seriously down-size the engine and run a regular alternator converted to 36V (large truck alternators have this ability) it would work!

I would suggest using surplus wheelchair motors and controls though, unless you were thinking about a 40MPH dozer

 

[whitworthsocket]

I have been following this thread with interest.
Would you be able to provide the model numbers and brand names of the hydraulic motors, controls and pump.
Also what size is your drive motor?
Being from Australia I dont recognize the tractor
I will wait to see how the blade looks
Regards Whitworthsocket

 

[wvpolekat]

For the track supports, would it not be better to have a series of wheels to allow some level of track conformation to the ground? Even if they are not sprung, I would think that the ability for them to flex some would be preferred to the solid rails. Or, I could be completely over-engineering this.

 

[workinprogress]

Well the weather has warmed back up and the dozer has moved back to the top of the project list. I had a short trip down the Spring time maple syrup wood fired arch project. Helped a few rebuild one and took the scrap metal and made a unit for me. Ended up with 1 1/2 gal of syrup but only caught the end of the run. Next year I will be ready.

Not much as happened with the project since I last posted. I have driven it around the yard and into the woods but still have to make the tensioners for the drive chains. I was able to find some small 100 pitch sprockets which would allow me to power directly to the track and get rid of the smaller drive chain. My next step is to do a test run to see how the machine handles if I change the gear reduction from 3.4 to 1 to 2.5 to 1. If the pumps and gas engine perform OK I will move to a direct drive system (which will be 2.5:1). I am sorry to say that the rebar on the track works fair. The rebar is to small and in deep wet snow (6-10 inches) the dozer will not climb a steep hill. It goes fine on the flat and slight hill but the track just slips in the snow. Something like 3/4 or 1 inch flat stock may work better.

Someone asked what the pumps, controls and motors were.
Item# 9-7686 Surplus Center - Combined Pump and Controls
Motor - 6.9 cu (?strange name I got of ebay)

I need to downsize the sugaring arch photos but will post them soon.

Thanks

 

[mjncad]

I am sorry to say that the rebar on the track works fair. The rebar is to small and in deep wet snow (6-10 inches) the dozer will not climb a steep hill. It goes fine on the flat and slight hill but the track just slips in the snow. Something like 3/4 or 1 inch flat stock may work better.

Thanks

Sorry to hear the rebar didn't work as well as you had hoped, as it seemed like a great idea. Instead of flat stock, how about using angle-iron instead? The legs could be welded to the track shoe, and the point where the legs meet would dig into the ground. It may make for a rougher ride; but I suspect it will do better traction wise.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Another option to consider for traction is a dual track system. Keep your re-bar tracks for your summer activities since they seemed to work fine in the summer. Then convert some old snowmobile track for your winter activities.

 

[Kobi]

Great project - very well thought out!

Some pictures for tracks...that might be of interest.....


Cheers, Manne

 

[kebo]

I am sorry to say that the rebar on the track works fair. The rebar is to small and in deep wet snow (6-10 inches) the dozer will not climb a steep hill. It goes fine on the flat and slight hill but the track just slips in the snow. Something like 3/4 or 1 inch flat stock may work better.
Thanks

Maybe you could try some 1" angle iron, if you think it will be thick enough to withstand the stress?? The angle would give more lateral support to the wide tracks (against bending) and the 1" vertical piece should give better traction?

 

[crazyal]

Have you though about buying some grouser bar to weld to that rebar?

 

[SpecElim]

For the track supports, would it not be better to have a series of wheels to allow some level of track conformation to the ground? Even if they are not sprung, I would think that the ability for them to flex some would be preferred to the solid rails. Or, I could be completely over-engineering this.

I agree...I have been running tracked machines more than half my life and it seems that if something got pulled into the tracks it could throw the track easily. Most mini excavators have about 5 rollers on the bottom and 3 on top. This not only helps keep the track from throwing but it also helps with following ground contours, giving proper support to the machine to dissapate stress, and if rollers with springs are used on the bottom it will make the ride much more comfortable.

Rollers on top should definately be solid and I have never seen a tracked machine with just rails. You could probably get by with one roller directly in the middle on top and two on the bottom spaced evenly on either side of the top roller.

Matt.