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Model 455 Question
- Thread starter gager2002
- Start date
- Views: 4924
That brings up a new question. What fuel is best to run in this one? What oil? transmission oil? Is there one that better than the others? I know I'm getting into a hornets nest as to believes one thing about their favorite vs someone else's. But what are some ideas?
KennedyDiesel
Veteran Member
Deere has top quality lubes for your machine. Hygard Lo-vis for the trans. and you can use deere 15w-40 or something good like Mobil Delvac 1300 or Rotella-T.
Fuel, I'd say use good quality #2 diesel from a station that moves alot. I prefer to fuel from the pump whenever possible rather than use canned fuel.
I'd suggest changing hydro oil and filter as well as primary and secondary air filters and engine oil/filter right away. I use a marker and write the hours right on the filter element when servicing. Have machine fully warmed before you start draining. Engine oil has a drain valve with a tube to direct it right to the pan. Grease the front axle/steering and spray lube all linkages etc.
Fuel, I'd say use good quality #2 diesel from a station that moves alot. I prefer to fuel from the pump whenever possible rather than use canned fuel.
I'd suggest changing hydro oil and filter as well as primary and secondary air filters and engine oil/filter right away. I use a marker and write the hours right on the filter element when servicing. Have machine fully warmed before you start draining. Engine oil has a drain valve with a tube to direct it right to the pan. Grease the front axle/steering and spray lube all linkages etc.
Ok, guys, I just got home with my new 'used' 455. When I picked it up the guys aready removed the deck so it would fit on my trailer. But they were gone when I got there. Ok, got a question... what are the 2 levers on the sterring column? what is the pedel on the left (it is missing a red cover)? Where are the primary and the seconadry air filters? That will be all for now. I will post some pics on Monday when I get back to work. I definately need a hood, and both side panels.
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,537
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
""what are the 2 levers on the sterring column? ""
They are control levers for the two dual hyd control valves under the left foot rest. The top one operates the cyl to raise and lower the deck.
""what is the pedel on the left (it is missing a red cover)? ""
That peddle on the left is the positraction (how did you know it had a red cover if it is missing? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ). Both wheels will lock together if one starts spinning, so traction can be shifted to both. Not good to keep it locked down when turning as the differential won't work then.
The hood and side panels are an integral part of the air filtering system, catching debris before it enters the radiator. If they are missing, that likely is your heating problem and a good cleaning of the radiator should be at the top of your list. Care needs to be taken not to bend the fins, as they are (I think) aluminum and will bend very easily.
Air is cleaned of debris when pulled through the side panels and the screen under the steering wheel. The hood properly closed will force all air pulled through the radiator to first go through the three screens. This is a very effective design and I wish it were still used on the Xseries. Deere took a giant step backward with the prefiltering of the cooling air on the X's, IMO.
They are control levers for the two dual hyd control valves under the left foot rest. The top one operates the cyl to raise and lower the deck.
""what is the pedel on the left (it is missing a red cover)? ""
That peddle on the left is the positraction (how did you know it had a red cover if it is missing? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ). Both wheels will lock together if one starts spinning, so traction can be shifted to both. Not good to keep it locked down when turning as the differential won't work then.
The hood and side panels are an integral part of the air filtering system, catching debris before it enters the radiator. If they are missing, that likely is your heating problem and a good cleaning of the radiator should be at the top of your list. Care needs to be taken not to bend the fins, as they are (I think) aluminum and will bend very easily.
Air is cleaned of debris when pulled through the side panels and the screen under the steering wheel. The hood properly closed will force all air pulled through the radiator to first go through the three screens. This is a very effective design and I wish it were still used on the Xseries. Deere took a giant step backward with the prefiltering of the cooling air on the X's, IMO.
I have been looking at pics ever since I knew is was going to be mine. So the red I saw in one of those. Reattaching the deck was a chore by myself. She runs great, but I didn't do much. Nest weekend I will by all the necessary filters and fluids to do a complete clean up. I did grease every fittign I could find. Correct me if Im wrong. Fittings are as follows: 5 on the deck, 2 for steering, and 2 in the front wheels. Are there anymore? Thansk guys.
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,537
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Hopefully you have an air compressor for cleaning out the radiator and screens, and backblowing the dirt out. I would avoid using water as it may just cake everything in there tight together.
You are right about the grease zirks, if by 'in the front wheels' you mean the spindle pivots at the end of the front axle. Also, should be one on the axle pivot point too. Look underneath, and if you don't see it, it may be broken off and have to be replaced. The way some people use them, they are in a vulnerable spot but one that can be reached to grease, if I remember correctly. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Then, with your new manual, follow the deck leveling procedure, beginning with the correct tire pressure, leveling right to left, and then fore and aft. Then figure out the height adjustment knob that you turn to hold the deck at the height you want to cut (often 3" ± 0.5").
You are right about the grease zirks, if by 'in the front wheels' you mean the spindle pivots at the end of the front axle. Also, should be one on the axle pivot point too. Look underneath, and if you don't see it, it may be broken off and have to be replaced. The way some people use them, they are in a vulnerable spot but one that can be reached to grease, if I remember correctly. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Then, with your new manual, follow the deck leveling procedure, beginning with the correct tire pressure, leveling right to left, and then fore and aft. Then figure out the height adjustment knob that you turn to hold the deck at the height you want to cut (often 3" ± 0.5").
KennedyDiesel
Veteran Member
The front grill section pulls out and you'll see a black canister with a wing nut and a rubber one way valve at the bottom. Remove the first wing nut and pull the end off of the canister.
There should be an oring sealing the two sections.
Another wing nut for the primary, and yet another for the secondary. I believe they say secondary every 4th primary change, but Ido them both most of the time as the secondary gets pretty gray. When new they are a white cotton type material. Watch the seals on the wing nuts etc...
There should be an oring sealing the two sections.
Another wing nut for the primary, and yet another for the secondary. I believe they say secondary every 4th primary change, but Ido them both most of the time as the secondary gets pretty gray. When new they are a white cotton type material. Watch the seals on the wing nuts etc...
