Modify Post Hole Auger

[npalen]

I'm needing to remove a pinetree stump down about 36" or so below ground level. It's about 18" in diameter and currently is flush with ground level. The reason I need to remove it is that the landscaping was built around that tree and it's the perfect spot for a new tree.
Wondering if a special bit could be fabbed for drilling down into the stump a series of holes that would make easier removal of the remains. I'm thinking in terms of taking a small diameter auger, say 4", and welding a sharpened cutting bit on the end something on the order of a spade bit or maybe even a forstner style.
No, I can't burn it out as we live in town and TNT probably wouldn't be an option either. I know of the method of removal using fertilizer in drilled holes but that takes a while.
All suggestions appreciated, even humorous ones.

 

[bcp]

Drilling out stumps:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXcH7Q889eI]Rotor Excavator Hydro stump cutter - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jTMXwWuJ5w]Rotop® stobbenboor aan graafmachine - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zx8up7sicY]Tree stump removal Rotor Speedy Hydro - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Little Red Tractor]

I'd start calling stump grinding services. They might be able to eliminate the problem for you. Probably end up cheaper than buying a bit for a phd--or the digger itself if you don't already have one.

 

[Groo]

you can slice it up with a sawzall and then go all Lizzie Borden on it.

maybe attach old table saw blades to a roto-tiller?

I did my last one with a drill, a small cordless circular saw and a propane torch, in the city limits. The cops didn't mind when they drove by.

 

[npalen]

Patent US20120111453 - TREE STUMP REMOVAL DEVICE - Google Patents
I ran across this patent application that looks interesting. It's a trepanning tool that can be used with a PTO post hole auger.

Edit: It's a hollow shell cutter with a diameter larger than the stump that trims the roots away from the stump allowing it to be pulled with minimal ground disturbance.

 

[foggy1111]

I'm needing to remove a pinetree stump down about 36" or so below ground level. It's about 18" in diameter and currently is flush with ground level. The reason I need to remove it is that the landscaping was built around that tree and it's the perfect spot for a new tree.
Wondering if a special bit could be fabbed for drilling down into the stump a series of holes that would make easier removal of the remains. I'm thinking in terms of taking a small diameter auger, say 4", and welding a sharpened cutting bit on the end something on the order of a spade bit or maybe even a forstner style.
No, I can't burn it out as we live in town and TNT probably wouldn't be an option either. I know of the method of removal using fertilizer in drilled holes but that takes a while.
All suggestions appreciated, even humorous ones.

I've ground out about 1600 pine stumps on my land thus far. Most have been from 10" dia to 18" diameter stumps and I typically grind them to 8" below ground height using my Woods SG50 Stump Grinder and my JD 3320 Tractor.

I question how much stump is available to remove at depth of 36". I think you may have more roots than stump (but I really dont know). I suppose if I needed to grind deep.....I could get some grinding action at a depth of 16" inches or so....if I were to remove some dirt around the stump hole.

In order to get the 36" depth your looking for.....I think you may need to get a backhoe or perhaps rent a trackhoe. Maybe grind first then use the hoe.

I dont think your going anywhere with a bit on a post hole digger.....but I've been wrong before.

 

[npalen]

Huh???

 

[rswyan]

Huh???

He's a spammer (from India ? ) embedding links in his posts .... hopefully a mod or admin can delete it and ban him ....

 

[boggen]

rent a concrete drill and hole saw bits for it. you can get the bits up to pretty good size. pending on rental store. once you ran hole saw bits down and removed them, you might be able to "pop" the cores out with taking a hammer and tapping the tops of cores at an angle.

you could also get some 1 to 2 feet long bits. any were from 1/2" to 1" in diameter, most large hardware stores have them. mainly for building retaining walls out of ties and using spikes. and also get extensions if you want to risk drilling deeper. that will let you drill out multi holes. and then use a reciprocating saw, to cut between holes that you drilled. may mean repeating multi times. to get to depth.

i never really have paid attention. wonder if you could drill a few holes. and then use a "router" with an extension below it. to get a better cut to take things out deeper. then again not to sure about that idea.

get a few extra blades for a circular saw, and make lots and lots of cuts between 1/4" to 3/4" distance apart. and then once all cuts made, pop all the chunks out with a chisel and hammer or screw driver and hammer. and then go back at it again. with circular saw, granted that might be a pain as well. and may only get you down a few inches.

if you could just remove landscaping and use an excavator. to dig out stump, and then put landscaping back..... you could get a lot more of the roots / stump out of the ground.

 

[aczlan]

He's a spammer (from India ? ) embedding links in his posts .... hopefully a mod or admin can delete it and ban him ....

Clicking on the "Report Post" button (

) will expedite the removal of such posts.

Aaron Z

 

[Eberkenkamp]

I would say that your best bet at this time if you havent already taken care of the stump would be to just rent a small stump grinder and take the little time it takes to do a stump or two and be through with it. Being a guy I know the thrill of designing a tool to do a job and conquring the challange. If you have a serious need for removing many stumps and doing so in a time frame without care for damage a stump auger or rotor s stump grinder is great. I built mine out of a 90 horse gear box off an old shreader with a 6 inch sproket driving a 12 inch sproket in 120 pitch roler chain. two pillow block bearings and a two inch shaft. at the bottom of the shaft I used a 6 inch section of cutting edge for a D6 dozer pitched at ten degrees and angled up on the ends at twenty degrees and welded them to the shaft directly opposing one another, they are 15 inches long and i later welded a vertical cutter to the ends to make for a cleaner cut and it does alot nicer job with just two inches sticking up to clean cut root ends. For the pilot bit I took a piece of AR400 flat stock three inches wide and cut it to a triangle style point and ground the back side of both leading edges to look simular to a flat style drill bit. I keep all the cutting edges sharp and it works pretty good. the frame work is pretty much the same as a post hole digger just seriously beefed up. I've been using it on a 145 horse tractor and it only takes a minitue or so to do away with a 24 inch oak stump. Been thinking about doing some things different, mainly putting a pin on bit instead of having to undo the bearings and gear to remove it as to be able to put bigger or smaller bits on. also wouldnt hurt to set it up with a cylinder to pull down on the auger instead of just the weight of it working for it. When its sharp it cuts very aggresively but when it is dull, you can sharpen the bit quicker then it cuts through a stump. My speeling is horrible so please excuse and see if this helps anyone. Grand Daddy always told me to work smarter before harder.

 

[schmism]

I suggest digging it out with a back hoe and backfilling with good dirt.

even if you grind it out, youll want to remove all the chips and backfill with good dirt in order to plant a new tree in the same spot.

oh and the gear box on a standard PHD isnt nearly strong enough for the typical auger grinder that is used. (see youtube vids)