Modifying a rotary mower

[Midniteoyl]

Can we get a better look at the top link connection? Looking at the pic from the rear, it doesn't look right.

 

[thefisherman]

Can we get a better look at the top link connection? Looking at the pic from the rear, it doesn't look right.

Here you go.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Here you go.

Oh, your link wasn't hooked. LOL..

 

[Midniteoyl]

Can't edit..

I assume that when you do hook up the top link, that you connect to the holes at the end of the u, and that u is at about a 40-45 down angle going toward the tractor, correct?

 

[thefisherman]

Can you reinstall the lower pins so they point inwards? That combined with relocating the pin holes lower might be the simplest fix (other than messing up the geometry slightly).

I would cut the verticals shorter, drill new holes to mount the verticals to the deck, and then install the lower lift pins pointing inwards. Geometry is kept and the width of your lift arms will be significantly narrower.

Yes I planned on reversing the pin, mentioned in the op. I'm also leaning toward the cutting now though after a few comments suggesting it.

Can't edit..

I assume that when you do hook up the top link, that you connect to the holes at the end of the u, and that u is at about a 40-45 down angle going toward the tractor, correct?

For mowing, yes. But I have to shorten the link as short as it will go and still can't lift the back off the ground. So I switch to the solid link at the top for transport. Still only get an inch or two off the ground. Which is why I was going to lower the pins, so I can get more lift. Based on some other comments I'm going to just do some trimming of the entire a-frame and support straps so the geometry stays the same and I can get more lift.

 

[TractorGuy]

Mower looks like it was set up for a tall cat 2 ag tractor. You might need to reconfigure the whole 3 point mount to cat 1 specs. The lift pins need to be mounted lower which will throw the top link connection off.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I would be tempted to just remove the steel "A" part that is bolted to the deck at each three point hitch pin. Then bolt the top part where the front bolt of the 2 "A" parts is bolted on. Then modify the braces to the rear to suit the new setup. That would lower your lifting points enough to get the deck resonably off the ground.

 

[cglaser104]

If you ever plan to add a quick hitch of any sort you'll need at least 4" of clearance from the deck to the pins...maybe more depending on the unit

 

[thefisherman]

Mower looks like it was set up for a tall cat 2 ag tractor. You might need to reconfigure the whole 3 point mount to cat 1 specs. The lift pins need to be mounted lower which will throw the top link connection off.

I'm at least the third owner, so I don't know what the first owner had, but the guy I bought it from had a JD 1025 and said he used it as it was, and was selling since he got rid of the tractor. I'm a cheapskate so I definitely don't mind an hour or two with the grinder and drill instead of forking over $1300+ for something new that's made for cat 1.

Several folks have suggested just trimming the whole a-frame down, I'll be doing that and rearranging things a bit to make it work. I'll post pics when I'm done and confident it won't kill me.

 

[slckeys]

I don't know how to point it out in the picture what might work?... so I'll do my best to describe my thought...

Is there any way you can swap where the lift pins are currently with the bolts directly below them, then take those bolts and place them where the lift pins are now? Basically switch locations. That'll definitely give you more lifting height with no cutting or grinding. I know my lift pins are low like that. Or am I way off on that idea?