More 50 hour service questions

   / More 50 hour service questions #11  
Thanks guys.. I didn't know what these guys on another thread were talking about.
The other thread is discussing the drain plugs.
There are several drain plugs you can use to drain the transmission/rear axle oil. The plugs under the rear axle set a bit lower so you get a little more of the old fluid out.
 
   / More 50 hour service questions #12  
The other thread is discussing the drain plugs.
There are several drain plugs you can use to drain the transmission/rear axle oil. The plugs under the rear axle set a bit lower so you get a little more of the old fluid out.

You da man Vince, Thanks...:eek:
 
   / More 50 hour service questions #13  
The other thread is discussing the drain plugs.
There are several drain plugs you can use to drain the transmission/rear axle oil. The plugs under the rear axle set a bit lower so you get a little more of the old fluid out.

I suspect draining these low spots is most important at the 50 hr point to help flush out any metal bits, sand, etc. left over from manufacturing and the break-in process.
 
   / More 50 hour service questions #14  
I'll be doing my own 50-hr service in about 35 hours. :)

So, with regard to the drain plugs: do they have or need the "squish type" washers often found on car oil pans? (I think usually made of a soft metal like copper).

Also, keep the 50-hr hints coming. Based on what I read, I'm afraid the long hydro filter is going to be a real bear to get off... there are some pretty awful stories about it here on TBN. Any more hints that use more brain than brawn? :confused: (Seems like a lot of brute force is needed, or destroying the filter, the latter of which sounds dicey to me).
-Mitch
 
   / More 50 hour service questions #15  
I'll be doing my own 50-hr service in about 35 hours. :)

So, with regard to the drain plugs: do they have or need the "squish type" washers often found on car oil pans? (I think usually made of a soft metal like copper).

Also, keep the 50-hr hints coming. Based on what I read, I'm afraid the long hydro filter is going to be a real bear to get off... there are some pretty awful stories about it here on TBN. Any more hints that use more brain than brawn? :confused: (Seems like a lot of brute force is needed, or destroying the filter, the latter of which sounds dicey to me).
-Mitch

Chain wrap vice grips worked very well for me. Near the end as they will crush the can abit on the hyd filter. The HST filter could probably be run over and still usable, its made for high pressures.
 
   / More 50 hour service questions #16  
I had used a rubber strap wrench and kept it at the end of the filter where it wouldn't crush as easily. Still crushed a little but it came off.

The drain plugs have a hard rubber like washer for a seal which are reused. Sometimes they come off with the drain plug bolt and some drain holes, it stayed on the casting. They must have put extra paint in those areas. As mentioned, there is one on each side of the rear axle and the head should be painted orange. Not much comes out of these areas if they are the last ones removed after most of the oil is drained out of the main bottom drain.
 
   / More 50 hour service questions #17  
I just finished my 50 hr. service and didn't have a problem removing the filters on my Bobcat CT122. I used my leather belt to fashion a strap wrench, and it came right off. One tip with the Hydrostatic filter, MAKE SURE you fill the filter before refilling the system, or you run the risk of doing bad things.

Also, make sure you double check for the proper fluids before putting them into your machine. My dealer's parts guy was having a bad day and sold me straight hydraulic oil for my 50hr. as opposed to hydro/trans/diff oil. Luckily I had to go back to the dealer to pick up my service manual and got to talking to the service guy!!!!! I had to completely drain and redo my fluids because hydraulic oil doesn't have the proper friction additives.:mad:
 
   / More 50 hour service questions #18  
On my DK45HST there are 3 bolts necessary to drain the transmission (which takes care of the rear axle also). The book only lists 1 bolt. But there are 2 others located under the tractor along side the rear axles. There painted yellow. All 3 need to be drained at 50 hours and then every 400 hours. The filters (both) need to be changed at 50 hours and then at 200 hours and every 200 hour interval after that.

I use rotella 5w40 also and i use 80w90 in the front axle.

When changing the front axle fluids....there a ***** to fully drain. it takes alot of patients to get it all out. After there filled, i had to top them off a few times till they stayed at the right level... has to do with trapped air i think. The front axle site glass is NICE.


Also as a note. the manual calls for type CC or CD oil. These classifications have been replaced YEARS ago. Its type CJ nowdays as i recall. All new classes superseded the old CC & CD
 

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