More grapple talk

[jmfox]

I would like to know if there are any grapples/root buckets sturdy enough to dig out standing timber.

jmf

 

[flINTLOCK]

Island, although I don't have pics, I have fould the Anbo very useful for grabbing smaller trees less than 6 " individually that might not be large enough to grasp otherwise. Like mine for backdragging debris during foodplot clearing. Great for firewood bucking of smaller logs. Not as good for grabbing large piles of brush as standard grapple, though.

 

[hazmat]

...For all you $3000 Anbo owners...please post some photos or descriptions of things you can do that cannot be done with a simple lightweight grapple!!!

Dad has an anbo on his TC40DA.

The main differences are:

The higher tooth count of the anbo will permit "raking" - if you dump the grapple with it open you can backdrag to clean up. Probably the only thing you can't really do with the Millonzi or similar.

The shorter tooth geometry of the fixed side of the anbo gives it higher "break out" force for pulling brush when using the curl function of the loader. Depending on your use may or may not be a benefit.

The "add a grapple" like rob has will do better for demolition type projects where you may have small materials that would slip thru the teeth vs. tree & brush work where you want to leave the dirt behind.

Each type excells at different tasks, doesn't mean it can't perform a different task.

 

[hazmat]

.... Not as good for grabbing large piles of brush as standard grapple, though.

Probaby true.

I've found success grabbing brush with the anbo is all about technique. My method is to dozer the pile with the grapple open & then close down over it adjusting curl for best fit (usually leave the loader in float). Ie clamp then lift. not lift then clamp.

 

[IslandTractor]

Hey guys, maybe we need a "grapple off" contest to see which style works best. Maybe we can design a series of tasks and then we can all do time trials.

In my opinion they all probably work about the same especially if the operator is experienced as we all learn to accommodate any potential deficiencies and exploit the advantages of each design. For example, the Millonzi "traditional" style closes somewhat like making an "O" with your finger and thumb...there is a hole in the middle so it doesn't really tightly hold on to a single smaller or even medium size tree or branch. However, one learns quickly to either 1) simply pick the smaller pieces up so they balance or 2) collect a bunch of them and then pick the whole lot up so they cram together and fill the void (who moves a single small log very far anyway) or 3) you snag a branch off the tree with the grapple arm and pin the whole thing into position.

I'm sure there are strengths and weaknesses to each design. I was looking at the WRLong and see that the root grapple looks more like a set of shovels while the Millonzi looks more like a series of knives (one presents a bigger surface and would plow while the other acts more like a subsoiler that cuts through the soil rather than plowing). You'd get different effects with each and both would be useful. I can see the better clean up potential for the clamshells but the standard type seems better suited to jam under a root and either pop it out or rip it.

Grapples rule!

 

[IslandTractor]

I would like to know if there are any grapples/root buckets sturdy enough to dig out standing timber.

jmf

I don't know what size "timber" you are referring to but many of us have successfully uprooted trees that our tractors can push partly over so we can get at the roots with the grapple. To my knowledge no one has ever reported damaging a grapple trying to uproot a tree. The limiting factor is the lift or curl capacity of the loader and the weight of the tractor. It doesn't always work with the first try but six to eight inch softwood trees with shallow roots are not really much of a problem for a 4000lb tractor and strong FEL.

 

[Highbeam]

You don't need no stinking grapple....

Really you do, really I do, I'm just saving up my pennies. I love that Millonzi. The tougher part for me is figuring out the hydraulics which can be nearly as expensive as the grapple.

 

[IslandTractor]

You don't need no stinking grapple....

Really you do, really I do, I'm just saving up my pennies. I love that Millonzi. The tougher part for me is figuring out the hydraulics which can be nearly as expensive as the grapple.

Highbeam I don't know if a grapple would be good for you. If you had a grapple you'd finish your land clearing way too quickly and you'd lose all your excuses to haul your tractor off for a weekend away from home. You'll probably just end up doing honey do's all weekend instead of getting seat time.

 

[gorillab]

Highbeam,
I've got the grapple jones too. I know our orange dealer on River Road has at least one ATI single-arm in their yard. Think they'd make a "group" discount?

I am mistifyied by the hyrdraulics involved and why it has to co$t so much. I know that there are two basic ways to approach it: remote vs. diverter..... and they're both expensive!

 

[daTeacha]

The add on grapples are not supremely well suited to moving long pieces of anything. The bucket sides limit how much you can wrap the thing around. I've found that adding a homemade long tooth toothbar helps a lot. I may drill another set of holes to enable mounting the grapple differently to increase the efficiency further, but I'm also toying with the possibility of mounting the grapple on the modified carry-all that I can mount on the QA plates of the loader, in effect giving me a grapple with two large teeth on the bottom.

 

[flINTLOCK]

If I grapple up a branch from an apple tree with apples on it, I could probably bring em in.

 

[3RRL]

Ha Island,
That is a great photo and story to go along with it.
Grapple season is not open yet in my parts.

 

[Northland]

I concur with 3RRL comments about the Tatro grapple. I bought my Tatro grapple ($400) last spring along with my WR Long valve kit ($600) and they have worked perfectly for my needs.