I talked to the Morton rep and attended one of their seminars, and they seem to be the start to finish guys on metal pole barns. But they are pricey. I was quoted $45,000 for a 40x60x12 shell, with another $13,000 for a concrete slab with plumbing stub ins. $58,000 for a pole barn seems mighty high to me, but I'm definitely no expert. The Mennonites in the area quoted me $25,000 for the same size with slab, but without plumbing stub ins. Even if the plumbing is $5000 more, it still beats Morton. They're both using 26 ga Galvalume with Kynar 500 paint, so I'm trying to find out what makes the Morton cost so much more. Any ideas?
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Morton Barns
- Thread starter mike223
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rdln
Veteran Member
That is a rediculous price! I know mat'l prices have gone up but I built twice that size morton 5 years ago for lesss money, are u getting over head doors with that and how many? what kind of extras in the shell that you may not be mentioning?
rdln,
There will only be one overhead door at one end, 20' wide by 10' tall. Their will be an entrance door at the other end and 4 windows. Also there will be a continuous ridge vent, 2' overhang with soffits and wainscoting, as well as gutters and downspouts. I didn't ask for all of this but it sounds like a standard package. The posts are laminated PT and set in concrete. The slab will be a 4", 4000# mix with 3/8" rebar on 30" centers, with a 4 mil vapor barrier. It also includes stub ins for plumbing in a 1 BR/1 BA/full kitchen apartment. It also includes Thermax insulation and vapor barrier, as well as stainless screws throughout. The building is evidently 42' wide vice 40', as that is a standard width for Morton, and would cost the same. The rep is going to work up a more detailed quote later this week, because I asked him point blank what I was getting for this price, as it is a lot higher than others.
The Mennonites' barn uses standard 6x6 PT posts, which I'm not that excited about due to warping/twisting, but am willing to take a chance on. I also rechecked, and their standard is a 29 ga steel, with a standard grade of galvalume and paint, not Kynar. I can get that but it will cost more. They also do not do site prep, concrete or plumbing, but know those who do, making me the general on the project, and responsible for coordination. I do like their price and work ethic though, and it's hard to reconcile the price difference between the two. I guess I'll make my decision when I get firm quotes from both parties. If anyone has any opinions or input, I'd appreciate it.
There will only be one overhead door at one end, 20' wide by 10' tall. Their will be an entrance door at the other end and 4 windows. Also there will be a continuous ridge vent, 2' overhang with soffits and wainscoting, as well as gutters and downspouts. I didn't ask for all of this but it sounds like a standard package. The posts are laminated PT and set in concrete. The slab will be a 4", 4000# mix with 3/8" rebar on 30" centers, with a 4 mil vapor barrier. It also includes stub ins for plumbing in a 1 BR/1 BA/full kitchen apartment. It also includes Thermax insulation and vapor barrier, as well as stainless screws throughout. The building is evidently 42' wide vice 40', as that is a standard width for Morton, and would cost the same. The rep is going to work up a more detailed quote later this week, because I asked him point blank what I was getting for this price, as it is a lot higher than others.
The Mennonites' barn uses standard 6x6 PT posts, which I'm not that excited about due to warping/twisting, but am willing to take a chance on. I also rechecked, and their standard is a 29 ga steel, with a standard grade of galvalume and paint, not Kynar. I can get that but it will cost more. They also do not do site prep, concrete or plumbing, but know those who do, making me the general on the project, and responsible for coordination. I do like their price and work ethic though, and it's hard to reconcile the price difference between the two. I guess I'll make my decision when I get firm quotes from both parties. If anyone has any opinions or input, I'd appreciate it.
rswyan
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( $58,000 for a pole barn seems mighty high to me, )</font>
Could be .....
You might want to check with Cleary:
Cleary Home Page
I had them put up a 42' x 72' x 13' polebarn this past December and it ran around $28K.
It was their Energy-Miser model, which is a step above their economy unit .... had the 3-ply 2 x 6 poles on 8' centers (instead of 10') and heavier trusses. It was basically just the shell ..... no interior finishing or slab .... but that price did include three insulated 12' x 10' Clopay commercial overhead doors, continous ridge vent, vented soffit on all sides, and a pair of octagonal gable vents. They used 29 gauge Fabral Grandrib 3 sheetmetal and did a 1' overhang on all sides (I wanted 2' but that would have cost me another $2K and I was already breaking the budget as it was /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
No wainscoat, gutters or downspouts. They gave me a quote of $2.85/ sq. ft. for a 4" slab with 10 ga. wire mesh .... dunno what psi. Additional inches of thickness were 35¢ per inch.
I think the warranty on the sheetmetal was like 35 years and the poles are guaranteed for like 50. The buiding was within less than an inch of being square when they finished. They also shipped in a new piece of steel and replaced one of the original panels on an endwall because it had gotten a little dinged up in shipping.
I did all the site prep work myself and am doing all the interior finishing and services.
Could be .....
You might want to check with Cleary:
Cleary Home Page
I had them put up a 42' x 72' x 13' polebarn this past December and it ran around $28K.
It was their Energy-Miser model, which is a step above their economy unit .... had the 3-ply 2 x 6 poles on 8' centers (instead of 10') and heavier trusses. It was basically just the shell ..... no interior finishing or slab .... but that price did include three insulated 12' x 10' Clopay commercial overhead doors, continous ridge vent, vented soffit on all sides, and a pair of octagonal gable vents. They used 29 gauge Fabral Grandrib 3 sheetmetal and did a 1' overhang on all sides (I wanted 2' but that would have cost me another $2K and I was already breaking the budget as it was /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
No wainscoat, gutters or downspouts. They gave me a quote of $2.85/ sq. ft. for a 4" slab with 10 ga. wire mesh .... dunno what psi. Additional inches of thickness were 35¢ per inch.
I think the warranty on the sheetmetal was like 35 years and the poles are guaranteed for like 50. The buiding was within less than an inch of being square when they finished. They also shipped in a new piece of steel and replaced one of the original panels on an endwall because it had gotten a little dinged up in shipping.
I did all the site prep work myself and am doing all the interior finishing and services.
$58,000 sounds like a lot of money to me also. The Morton's I had put up, ran closer to 50K. 2 ft overhangs, sky lights, Clopay overhead doors, thermopane windows and entry doors, wainscoating with 1/2" waferboard on the bottom 4' to avoid denting the wainscoating, vented ridge vents and soffit with screenig to prevent birds from entering, and 3/4" foam insulation against the ceiling panels. $50,000 isn't inexpensive either. There are any number of vendors out there that are putting up good products and by the sounds of it - for somewhat less money too. You can buy kits too and assemble your friends for a few weekends of barn raising. Other than rust thru gurantees from your "barn" manufacturer, normal homeowners insurance will cover hail and wind damage. Even $30,000 for a bare floor building is a lot of money. Start adding on the extras and the cost rises dramatically and quickly. Morton can build you the equivalent - it's up to you how far you want to go as far as amenities. By the way, Morton builds their buildings on 8' centers also and their trusses are 2x12's.
rdln
Veteran Member
how far are you from the morton building center? over 40 miles raises the price a little and the thermax is an extra that can add up.
But todays prices are ridiculous. For example my barn started out at as a 48x75x12, two slider barn doors a window and entrance door, one unvented cupola, uninsulated no concrete "building value days" package for $26k and change. also included gutters, overhangs, wainscot and stuff.
It became a 54x90x14 5 windows, 2 vented cupolas better roof paint, 22x8 porch, posts 5 feet deep so I could build up the pad and stay on virgin subsoil, no concrete I swapped the sliders for openings for 20x14 and 18x12 overhead doors that I'd add later. finished xmas of 2000 for less than$45,000
But todays prices are ridiculous. For example my barn started out at as a 48x75x12, two slider barn doors a window and entrance door, one unvented cupola, uninsulated no concrete "building value days" package for $26k and change. also included gutters, overhangs, wainscot and stuff.
It became a 54x90x14 5 windows, 2 vented cupolas better roof paint, 22x8 porch, posts 5 feet deep so I could build up the pad and stay on virgin subsoil, no concrete I swapped the sliders for openings for 20x14 and 18x12 overhead doors that I'd add later. finished xmas of 2000 for less than$45,000
Cord
Veteran Member
I bought a 30'x50'x14' metal building (stud framed) that is part of a condo complex of simular buildings. It came on a concrete slab, has a 12'x12' insulated powered over head door, 100 amp service and all the common roads are blacktopped. I bought my building 3 years ago for 50k. The prior year the buildings were being sold for 40k. The next year they were selling just as fast for 60k.
MarEng
Silver Member
Budget point - I'm in East Texas. Just had a 40x60x16' all steel pole barn put up on grade with a modified lower purlin to act as a form board to allow a slab to be poured later. 14x14 framed opening (no door) one end, 10x10 framed opening (no door) other end, walk door, continuous roof, roof vent, 6 wall lights. (www.wdmb.com) No insulation, no plumbing, no slab. Full warranties on the steel, etc. 3 days start to finish. Superb attention to detail. $18,500. Compared to timber framed it was $5,000 cheaper. $50k seems way outa line.
Wind loaded doors added another $2500.
Wind loaded doors added another $2500.
rdln,
I don't know how far their building center is from the Nashville area. I know that the rep who will act as the general lives in Lewisburg which is only 20 miles from my property, which means he will be there the whole time. The Thermax sounds like a good product, which should keep the indoor rainshowers from occurring, and won't sag like the others, so maybe it's worth the extra. I'll know more later this week when I get the final quote for the building. I guess the "Katrina Effect" has hit all over the building industry lately, because prices are out of sight everywhere. I want to sell my house in FL soon, and get this barn built prior to this hurricane season, because I have a nasty feeling that this will be another bad one.
rswyan,
Thanks for the link to Cleary, I'll check them out as well.
Thanks again everyone for the inputs.
Mike
I don't know how far their building center is from the Nashville area. I know that the rep who will act as the general lives in Lewisburg which is only 20 miles from my property, which means he will be there the whole time. The Thermax sounds like a good product, which should keep the indoor rainshowers from occurring, and won't sag like the others, so maybe it's worth the extra. I'll know more later this week when I get the final quote for the building. I guess the "Katrina Effect" has hit all over the building industry lately, because prices are out of sight everywhere. I want to sell my house in FL soon, and get this barn built prior to this hurricane season, because I have a nasty feeling that this will be another bad one.
rswyan,
Thanks for the link to Cleary, I'll check them out as well.
Thanks again everyone for the inputs.
Mike
Just a heads up for those of you with metal buildings. I've done alot of gutter fab and replacement on Morton type buildings, large and small. Alot of manufacturers use a gutter design that has a bend at the top on the back of the gutter which goes underneath the roofing panel. A strong way to attach gutters, but the design doesn't allow the builder to slope the gutters towards the downspouts. Larger downspouts are a good option, as is additional downspouts. This will minimize standing water in the gutters. These are very expensive to replace...so taking the time to clean the gutters, and possibly coat them on the inside, is very important in prolonging the life of the gutters.
Kynar and galvalume finishes are top notch, but they will still rust at any point where they've been field cut, or scratched thru the protective finishes
Kynar and galvalume finishes are top notch, but they will still rust at any point where they've been field cut, or scratched thru the protective finishes