Mouse Proofing

   / Mouse Proofing #31  
MikeD74T said:
A 5 gallon bucket can be used to make a high volume mouse trap. Put in 3" of water, cover the top with heavy kraft paper or 6 mil poly, cut an X in the covering about 2/3 of the way across, dap peanut butter on the points of the X. Place a short board as an access ramp at the side of the bucket. If in an area subject to freezing use antifreeze in the bucket. If there is any potential for pet access use non-toxic antifreeze.
Another option is to skewer a 1 litre bottle w/cap lengthwise with a 1/8" rod so it will spin, dab PB on the bottle (or poke "smell" holes in the bottle & smear PB inside) & secure the 'axle' across the top of the bucket in place of the paper/poly.
If used in warm weather where emptying will be infrequent pour some 5 wt oil on top of the water to suppress the odor of the decomposing mice. If used outside enclose in a cage with openings to permit only target species. MikeD74T

Better your friend than enemy. Cool ideas.
 
   / Mouse Proofing #32  
Bedlam said:
Very good statement DUSTY. Very informative.And the pics.. Typical..LOL
I had what seemed to be a funny one reciently. I have a new blue tarp in the back of the garage, and fetched it to take to my uncles to rake leaves. Well. I grabbed the tarp and headed into the basement to put it in the trunk, as I went throught the walk in door. I noticed a mouse walked in on my left. On my right was the cat, hmm with that look on its face..They both went their ways.The cat did get the mouse later that day.
The tarp held the urine stink all day.. In fact, I left the tarp there...as I was raking and truend to see the dog roll in it.(they love that).
When building he house, I had a joint compund bucket filled with water about 1/4 up and a 2x4 must have fallen on it, Anyway when I returned days later there were dead mice in it.
My battle continues...Seems to be alot more this year up here in the north east though.
Thanks for the post Dusty ..
Allan

The bucket point caught my eye. When I have many "visitors" in the fall, I take a 5 gal dry wall bucket (with clean smooth sides) and place a dab of peanut butter 4-5" down from the top rim. Then I take a stick and lean it up to the rim, from a wall/floor. I do smear a bit of peanut butter on the stick to get them motivated. You can get many in one shot.

The trailer issue adds one issue. Dead mice inside for weeks?? before returning. After fighting mice I can tell you, dead mouse stick often clears before you get back but mouse piss takes bleach!

And as Mr Jimi said, best to block entry
 
   / Mouse Proofing #33  
blocking the entry is a good idea. but I think my basement 'cat' door is doubling as a mouse door too. Mine often get in on the firewood trailer , I guess we all have fun with them.
They are like bats, people go on and on about how 'they" don"t have them in fact bats are good, and luckily we just don't know we have them.....
I removed some insulation once from the barn ceiling.I learned to always pull it down toward you. The other way the baby mice drop out and down your shirt.YUCK
Al
 
   / Mouse Proofing #34  
You can find rodent infiltration points the same way you find air infiltration in an "energy audit" ... powerful exhaust fan sealed into a door or window and a "weightless smoke pencil" ...
 
   / Mouse Proofing #35  
dooleysm said:
I despise cats in general. I raise beagles to run rabbits and cats are known to decimate rabbit populations. I'm also very allergic to cats. Even still, I've seriously considered getting one to catch mice around the house and barn (outside only).

Maybe you're more of a large snake type of person ???? I'm allergic to snakes myself. MikeD74T
 
   / Mouse Proofing #36  
We had a small snake get into the kitchen from the stove vent that goes out under the floor to the outside with what looks like a dog door. That was a treat, trying to catch the snake, dealing with two dogs that wanted to catch the snake, and a wife that wanted me to catch the snake, but didn't want to help with the snake or deal with the dogs. I got the job done in 30 minutes.... 20 minutes looking for the snake after the dogs scared it under the refrigerator, and ten minutes looking for something to drag it out with. I then picked it up and put it on the grass. It didn't move and the Greyhound just kept staring at it waiting for it to move. When she turned away, the snake took off. When the greyhound realized the snake was gone, she took off running and trying to find its scent. Goofy dog spent the whole afternoon looking all over the yard.
Dusty
 
   / Mouse Proofing #37  
I noticed that several people mentioned that eating poisoned mice would not hurt a pet. Is that because of the size of the mouse and the amount of poisoning it can ingest versus the size of the pet. I lived in california and one of my dobermans came home and had blood dripping out of its nose, mouth etc. I took it to the vet immediately and they started treating it for poisoning. The give it something to get it to regurgitate what was in its stomach and found where it had eaten a gopher. The vet told me that the gopher had eaten gopher poison and that poison was what was killing the dog. Luckily we got to the dog fast enough that she survived but I have been really leary of leaving poison where a pet can get at it.
 
   / Mouse Proofing #38  
:eek: Update on mouse here.
Found two mice on my floor dead this morning. Hmm I thought finally a pay off on all the cat food I buy. But hmmm they look like they were give a bath.
they got cremated. in the furnace. (anything to heat).
I set out a few bags of poison for the others a week ago. Thought I had the thing licked.
But awoke at 4 am this morning to a scratching in the ceiling.. then the dog went nuts sniffing.Another mouse in the corner. I move the cabinet and there it is.I shooed it out the side by the cat and dog.And the cat swipes at it, the mouse crawls under the cats tummy.:eek: :rolleyes:
then the dog grabs it and off to the other room.where it again hides. Finally the dog gets it again and the dog and mouse go outside.
Summary... two cats free for the taking.
One dog that licks you to death.:D
Allan
 
   / Mouse Proofing #39  
My dad (86) has used the 5 gal bucket trap for years, with windshield washer fluid in the winter. Simplest is just a stick leaned against it. One time he got creative and stretched a wire across the top, with an empty coke can threaded on (just punch a hole on each side). He put peanut butter on the bottom of the can, the mice would walk the wire to get to the can, try to jump on the can to get at the pb, and the can would spin and drop the mouse into the high diving championship contest.
There must have been some competitive diving, because there were 15 mice in there.
 
   / Mouse Proofing #40  
gemini5362 said:
I noticed that several people mentioned that eating poisoned mice would not hurt a pet. Is that because of the size of the mouse and the amount of poisoning it can ingest versus the size of the pet. I lived in california and one of my dobermans came home and had blood dripping out of its nose, mouth etc. I took it to the vet immediately and they started treating it for poisoning. The give it something to get it to regurgitate what was in its stomach and found where it had eaten a gopher. The vet told me that the gopher had eaten gopher poison and that poison was what was killing the dog. Luckily we got to the dog fast enough that she survived but I have been really leary of leaving poison where a pet can get at it.

I was one that mentioned that a mouse wouldn't harm the animal, but I also put into to that post the caveat that it also depends on the type of poison and the size of the dog. It is difficult to make a hard and fast statement when it comes to poisons. D-Con isn't that strong a poison. Other mouse, rodent poisons can be extremely toxic. It is best to make sure that the poison that you are using is specific to the type of pest that you want to eliminate. D-Con will not kill a coyote, but it will take out a mouse. There are some rodent poisons that are strong enough that they can kill a large animal like a cow or horse. Just like everything else we do, we are responsible for making certain that the choice of poison is matched to the pest. A strong poison will also kill the pest, but it will also harm other animals that we don't want harmed. When in doubt, go with the mildest type of poison that you can find. Most mouse poisons will kill chipmunks and squires, but not harm the larger animals such as raccoons. The one factor here is quantity of poison also. In sufficient quantities, even mouse poison will kill the larger animals, if they ingest more of it. Also consider the possibility of children getting into the poison. Don't use poison where a simple mouse trap will work. The right tool for the job is always best.
Here is a web pagewith lots of helpful information on what works well that is a substitute for commercial mouse poisons.
Dusty
 

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