Mowing Mower height limit control
- Thread starter RaydaKub
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
Yes, they are rusted hydraulic lines. Doesn't seem too serious though it looks pretty bad.. I'm at least 2nd owner and have no idea where this thing has been or how used. It's dinged up some for sure., but runs nice. The floor pan bolts were rusted solid and had to be drilled out. I was given an estimate of a 2004 model, but don't know for sure. Maybe this is why all the rest are zync plated? 
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
Well, we finally got the bracket welded. It isn't a pretty weld, because it was so awkward to reach, but the weld now goes the entire length of the ripple. The bracket is about 1 1/4 inches straight, about 2 inches at a 90 degree angle, and another 1 1/2 inches parallel to the first side. It was welded on the first point and at both bends, but a lot of open space in between. Now it is welded the entire length of the metal. It's ugly, but done with a wire feed welder, it should be pretty solid. Got the cam put back in, and attached all the fuel lines (and changed the underside fuel filter). The rest will have to wait until tomorrow or later. But at least it's on the way toward being a tractor again.
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
I changed the fuel filters while it was easy to get at and over the last 2 nights I've gotten it almost put back together. The only 2 parts left are the ROPS and the engine cowling. I would have put those back, but was tracing wires to try to get the hazards working. Once I got the mower arms attached, I put it in the "top" position and they are almost parallel with the frame.
The best news is that I sat down on it and turned the key. It put out that typical puff of black smoke and fired right up. That's the best noise I've heard in 2 weeks. :thumbsup:
The best news is that I sat down on it and turned the key. It put out that typical puff of black smoke and fired right up. That's the best noise I've heard in 2 weeks. :thumbsup:
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
Well, I put the engine cowl back on, then moved to the ROPS and have it all back together. I had borrowed some tools from a neighbor and decided to drive over to bring them back, then put my mower on for a last pass on the yard before winter. :thumbsup:
As I pulled the mower through, I noticed some fluid dripped on it. First thought: I didn't get something tight on the fuel lines I had pulled. But it's not diesel.
It's hydraulic oil. Those (rusty) FEL pipes were right by where the welding needed to be done and we used a small grinder to polish things up before the welding. My neighbor said "whoops, don't want to grind that" at one point, but it took the rust off in one place. Well.... I now have a worse problem than I had before.
There doesn't seem to be an emoticon for :wah:!
I will do the quick mowing, but I think I'm going to have to have the shop replace this pipe. I don't know a darn thing about hydraulics. And my wife is tired of me spending time with the "other woman".
As I pulled the mower through, I noticed some fluid dripped on it. First thought: I didn't get something tight on the fuel lines I had pulled. But it's not diesel.
It's hydraulic oil. Those (rusty) FEL pipes were right by where the welding needed to be done and we used a small grinder to polish things up before the welding. My neighbor said "whoops, don't want to grind that" at one point, but it took the rust off in one place. Well.... I now have a worse problem than I had before.
There doesn't seem to be an emoticon for :wah:!
I will do the quick mowing, but I think I'm going to have to have the shop replace this pipe. I don't know a darn thing about hydraulics. And my wife is tired of me spending time with the "other woman".
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
All 3 lines will cost me $82.70 and it looks like a fairly easy repair to make. The service manager said the loaders are designed to be added later on at the dealer's w/o a lot of work. I'm guessing I might have to remove the left mount, but the rest should be easy. The pipes run right under the floor pan, but cross right on top of the mount. Something will need to move, but I don't know which it will be.
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
Procedurally, this isn't too bad. I pulled the ROPS and left fender, then loosened the floor pan. I started the tractor and confirmed (by getting squirted) that we nicked a hydraulic pipe. The only way to get this thing off is to also pull the left loader mount. They welded 2 of the nuts in place on the frame, but left 4 with a lock washer and nut. ****, were they tight. 18" breaker bar and had to beat it with a blacksmith's hammer to crack 2 of them loose. Once I got the bracket off (why couldn't they weld all 6 nuts??????????? I had to put a socket on the inside and let it rest against the underside of the body) I found that in order to get a decent swing at the pipe nuts I had to pull off the left rear wheel. Maybe not so with the right wrench, but required for my cresent.
So the pipes are all loose. May as well drain it. I checked the capacity and it's 10.1L, which I converted to 10+ quarts. A 5 quart ice cream bucket and 7 quart oil pan should be enough. Should... It's still flowing with only a 1/2 inch left in the oil pan. Could there be almost 11 quarts in there? I plugged it back up and will need to dispose of the UDT before I can finish draining it. It's over 600 hours, so it needed to be serviced anyway. At least that's what I'm gonna tell myself. Boy what fun.
Should be a cake walk from here on out. Stay tuned.
I had to put a socket on the inside and let it rest against the underside of the body) I found that in order to get a decent swing at the pipe nuts I had to pull off the left rear wheel. Maybe not so with the right wrench, but required for my cresent. So the pipes are all loose. May as well drain it. I checked the capacity and it's 10.1L, which I converted to 10+ quarts. A 5 quart ice cream bucket and 7 quart oil pan should be enough. Should... It's still flowing with only a 1/2 inch left in the oil pan. Could there be almost 11 quarts in there? I plugged it back up and will need to dispose of the UDT before I can finish draining it. It's over 600 hours, so it needed to be serviced anyway. At least that's what I'm gonna tell myself. Boy what fun.
Should be a cake walk from here on out. Stay tuned.
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
It's been almost 4 weeks since I've had any meaningful seat time. I've still got tractor parts laying all over the garage. Hopefully my hydraulic pipes will come in today.
This is torture to look at it every morning and every night sitting on 3 wheels while everybody else is out scooping/blowing snow, carrying in the firewood, or whatever. And 3 or 4 new threads with new guys that just bought something. It's driving me nuts! :confused2: :laughing:
This is torture to look at it every morning and every night sitting on 3 wheels while everybody else is out scooping/blowing snow, carrying in the firewood, or whatever. And 3 or 4 new threads with new guys that just bought something. It's driving me nuts!
:confused2: :laughing:
TripleR
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
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- Location
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- Kubota M8540HDC, L5740HSTC, BX2200, BX2660, John Deere 425&1025R, Case, Massey Ferguson, Ford
I do feel for you, I have spent the last week working in the woods and hauling rock; been beautiful weather here until rain moved in late yesterday.
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
Pipes are in! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I hope to join the seat time fun soon! :licking:
I hope to join the seat time fun soon! :licking:
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
I can finally put this thread to rest. Got the new pipes installed, put the whole rig back together again. Managed to get 2/10's of a mile seat time going over to my neighbor's to bring back some tools. It was only 37 degrees and windy, but it was some of the best seat time I've had in what seems like a year. Thanks for riding along with me.
ryan08
Silver Member
Sounds like you needed some tractor therapy and finally got it.
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
And how!
crisco
New member
looks like i will be doing some welding soon! same things happened with my height bracket.
did you have to remove the hood and ROPS in addition to the seat pan to get to the area?
thanks\
crisco
did you have to remove the hood and ROPS in addition to the seat pan to get to the area?
thanks\
crisco
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RaydaKub
Veteran Member
The roll bar definitely has to come off. When I take things apart the first time, I usually over achieve.
I took the roll bar, both fenders, seat, the battery, took loose the brake pedal, took off the hst pedal, and finally the floor pan. I couldn't figure out how to get the rubber mat up without breaking the plastic rivets. Then I had to drill the floor bolts because the carriage bolt holes had rusted out. I ended up taking off or loosening a bunch of fuel lines and a 5 way plastic octopus on the fuel lines mounted right behind the bracket.
I didn't pull the pan off completely, I just flipped it up out of the way, bungeed to the steering wheel and FEL control. I couldn't figure out a way to get it off without removing the FEL brackets. Finally pulled off the left one just to get it out of the way some.
Make sure you polish a bunch of that paint off before you weld it. My neighbor welded up mine with a small wire welder. But be careful of the FEL hydraulic lines if you have them. That cost me another $90 and a second tear down.
I took the roll bar, both fenders, seat, the battery, took loose the brake pedal, took off the hst pedal, and finally the floor pan. I couldn't figure out how to get the rubber mat up without breaking the plastic rivets. Then I had to drill the floor bolts because the carriage bolt holes had rusted out. I ended up taking off or loosening a bunch of fuel lines and a 5 way plastic octopus on the fuel lines mounted right behind the bracket.
I didn't pull the pan off completely, I just flipped it up out of the way, bungeed to the steering wheel and FEL control. I couldn't figure out a way to get it off without removing the FEL brackets. Finally pulled off the left one just to get it out of the way some.
Make sure you polish a bunch of that paint off before you weld it. My neighbor welded up mine with a small wire welder. But be careful of the FEL hydraulic lines if you have them.
That cost me another $90 and a second tear down.crisco
New member
i took the foot deck off and getting it welded tomorrow. only took about an hour to get it ready for welding. all i removed was the seat, foot fwd/back pedal, and floor pan. also moved the fuel lines out of the way and got the frame cleaned up for welding.
