Mower is acting funny, what do you think is wrong?

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Just ordered the regulator

Amazon.com : Voltage Regulator for Briggs & Stratton 691185, 39489 : Lawn And Garden Tool Replacement Parts : Patio, Lawn & Garden

$12.50 with free shipping, estimated arrival may 25th-31st

Next will be an oil change, it's got close to 50h on this oil, after that, hopefully nothing for a few years lol.

Here is a pic of the old one that's still on the tractor

I am thinking about changing blades, I have standard blades on it now, they do a good job but don't lift the grass as well as I would like, it leaves a strip of taller grass if I go full speed on taller grass, it cuts all the grass just slightly higher strips sometimes which on the front is an aggravation, the back it doesn't bother me lol.

Teach has been talking those G5 blades up pretty high, in a month or so I may give those a try, I'm sure scrapping all the crud from the deck today will help the cut and discharge substantially.

So far these blades have held up great, I have hit a few larger rocks, it grabbed and chewed up a junction box and wire it found in taller grass, I checked the blades today and the middle one has a chip, overall there still decently sharp.
Amazon.com : Set Of 3 Blades Replaces HUSQVARNA 532 18 72-54 532 18 72-55 532 18 72-56 : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Current blades.

 

[Leejohn]

Doesn't a B&S engine run off of a mag and the battery only for starting?

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Doesn't a B&S engine run off of a mag and the battery only for starting?

When I checked the voltage comeing out of the alternator it showed 23-25v AC, so for my test that is good, the voltage regulator wasn't charging the battery though.

Yes the motor seems to be able to run off its own power when I was unhooking the regulator during the test, but the Electronic PTO seems to draw power from the battery to engage and stay engaged, when I ran the deck is when the battery was nearly drained before, the regulator isn't keeping up with the Electronic PTO demands at this time.

This is the alternator which is by the flywheel. Amazon.com : Briggs & Stratton 59283 Alternator : Lawn Mower Tune Up Kits : Patio, Lawn & Garden

 

[Leejohn]

You are calling the electric clutch a Electronic PTO, it's just a electric clutch and maybe it's drawing to many amps to keep it engaged in turn running your battery down. Did you check that fuse holder out real good? Check the voltage in and out of it and move the wires around. If it's bad the tach well go out and back on.

 

[Coyote machine]

A fully functional battery will read 13+ - 14.25-14.5 Volts MAX. Anything over 14.5 Volts is too much voltage and will do damage eventually.
Ideally you shouldn't disconnect parts of the electrical system when the tractor is running, including the battery cables from their posts, and voltage regulators or alternators, depending on what your tractor uses to supply/regulate voltage and output amps through the system.
Hopefully the v-reg replacement will solve your issues.
Make sure to balance any replacement blades before installing them, so they minimize vibration, and get them right side up too so they cut effectively.
I usually keep two sets of spares and one running set. The spares are ready to go, already sharpened and balanced. It saves time in the long run and makes changing them more frequently less hassle.:thumbsup:

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

You are calling the electric clutch a Electronic PTO, it's just a electric clutch and maybe it's drawing to many amps to keep it engaged in turn running your battery down. Did you check that fuse holder out real good? Check the voltage in and out of it and move the wires around. If it's bad the tach well go out and back on.

I checked voltage at the battery and got 12.48v and voltage at the wires coming out of the regulator, I had the same 12.48v DC there as well so I'm not losing anything at the fuse holder, I have played with the fuse holder in the past, blown 1 15A fuse last year, I just looked in the manual and it says that fuse should be a 20A, I will leave it for now.

And I wasn't sure of the terminology on the electronic PTO button, thingy ma bob, lol.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

A fully functional battery will read 13+ - 14.25-14.5 Volts MAX. Anything over 14.5 Volts is too much voltage and will do damage eventually.
Ideally you shouldn't disconnect parts of the electrical system when the tractor is running, including the battery cables from their posts, and voltage regulators or alternators, depending on what your tractor uses to supply/regulate voltage and output amps through the system.
Hopefully the v-reg replacement will solve your issues.
Make sure to balance any replacement blades before installing them, so they minimize vibration, and get them right side up too so they cut effectively.
I usually keep two sets of spares and one running set. The spares are ready to go, already sharpened and balanced. It saves time in the long run and makes changing them more frequently less hassle.:thumbsup:

I was not getting over 12.48v DC at the battery, which was just battery power, no help from the voltage regulator.

I got the 23-25v AC out of the alternator/magneto whatever it's called which is correct, the engine is producing power and the regulator is failing to transfer the AC voltage to DC and charge the battery.

As far as blades go, the ones I got with the tractor were mulching blades I believe and they were hosed, the guy sharpened them on both sides, I may take them to a guy to see if they can be sharpened.

I do plan on ordering another set soon. 2 sets on rotation will be plenty for me. I mow weekly and average 30-40 hours a year mowing so 15-20 hours per sharpening sounds about right. I will play it by ear on blade sharpening.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Briggs & Stratton Battery Not Charging - Simple Voltage Regulator Test - YouTube

I followed the same steps this guy did and came to the conclusion of a bad voltage regulator.

I forgot to add the video in my post earlier before I pulled and cleaned the deck.

I also hit all the 4 front zerks and the 3 spindles on the deck with grease, the belt pulleys which I replaced (3 total) earlier this month are non grease-able but are not too hot to lay my hand on after mowing.

 

[Coyote machine]

I was not getting over 12.48v DC at the battery, which was just battery power, no help from the voltage regulator.

I got the 23-25v AC out of the alternator/magneto whatever it's called which is correct, the engine is producing power and the regulator is failing to transfer the AC voltage to DC and charge the battery.

As far as blades go, the ones I got with the tractor were mulching blades I believe and they were hosed, the guy sharpened them on both sides, I may take them to a guy to see if they can be sharpened.

I do plan on ordering another set soon. 2 sets on rotation will be plenty for me. I mow weekly and average 30-40 hours a year mowing so 15-20 hours per sharpening sounds about right. I will play it by ear on blade sharpening.

Sounds like the bridge rectifier of you V-reg is not functional. That is what converts from AC to DC as it passes through the charging system. It uses a set of 4 diodes to convert the current to the correct usable waveform; in this case from AC to DC.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

There it is, $12.50 in all its glory professionally installed I might add lol.

I'm getting 33v AC out of the alternator and I'm getting 13.3v DC at the battery, my problems are solved.