Mowing mowing WITHOUT the loader and weights! A O K!!!!!

[TresCrows]

I’m simply looking for possible answers to this issue.
Thanks again!

--and as I said, I think your loader frame is installed crooked. Possibly check your air pressure also. I doubt it is bent and I imagine even if there is a weld/manufacturing warp built in it can be adjusted. I think your diffuculty is more with method than fault with the machine--could be wrong. From the pics I don't see anything unusual. Once the loader leaves the frames it may spring a little out or in and it should not be a problem to "help" it a little. My biggest failure when I first started R&R the FEL was not getting the front of the tractor off the ground to unload the pins. Also, don't forget to put the legs down or the cross member will fall onto the hood and mash it. Use the FEL joystick to work the loader free once the pins are out, drop the tractor back to the ground and then work the loader out with the joystick. Going back on--drive into it and square up. If the loader does not guide in persuade it that it wants to. Once it has the side frames in the tractor frames hook up the hoses and work the loader down into the frame till it is on the cross pin and then gently lift the tractor front off the ground. Pop the lock pins in, raise the loader and secure the legs and away you go, yep, you got a smart pig there if he did all that /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. You can set the brakes to help but I usually leave mine off, let the loader do the work. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif J

 

[r0GuE]

HEY!! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
Easy on the sissy hands! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Of course if the shoe fits /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I removed my first wheel ever last weekend. Had to buy an array of tools just to do it. I guess it fits! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[r0GuE]

My removal does not go exactly as the manual prescribes. The hydro lines (top one) are short so as I lift the loader, I climb on and inch forward a bit to give them some slack. One arm does like to move first, but if you keep pressure on the lever, the other one goes when the pressure builds enough. Work it wiggle it and don't baby it. You will scrape off some paint in that "bind" area, and when you reinstall it may catch early and then drop in to position with a bang. But I figure this stuff is big heavy and steel. I am used to working on mechanical things that require torque in inch lbs (30-60). This stuff requires it in foot lbs (110ish). So I guess it needs to be manhandled a bit. My right stand leg has to be kicked of the top retaining pin and kicked back on. My three year old thinks that's a howl. When the tractor was new that would have bothered me but now I realize it doesn’t matter. In fact, I'm glad it makes my kid laugh.
Good luck brother. Get that sucker on and off a few times then decide if it needs adjusting.

 

[TresCrows]

HEY!!
Easy on the sissy hands!

Rogue, you may not believe this /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif but when I was making that wise crack about sissy hands I had you in mind /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif. I know you just recently bought your first set of pliers--plaars if you from Kansaw /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif. Hey, if you want to keep those hands nice and purty there is a new product called Mechanix gloves. They are very thin and allow excellent grip and dexterity. I see the advertized in bike magazines and I may have seen some in Sears. We get them given to us at work, a generic brand but they are the same. We have some that have kevlar threads woven into them--you can actualy run a box cutter over the palm and it will not cut your skin /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif--course, I could run a box cutter over mine without the gloves and I don't think it would draw blood, and yes, I make fun of the guys at work wearing the gloves /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif. Anyway, gloves are a good idea as long as you are not working around anything that is moving that could snag them and the Mechanix gloves are so thin and flexible that they would not snag anyway. For messing around with the tractor I got some thin leather gloves--they look awfull covered with grease, I just wipe them off on the dirt /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif but at least the grease is on them and not me--tractors are greasy, nasty things /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif. Have fun with your new tools /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif, don't take anything apart you cannot put back right /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. J

 

[Maskimxul]

OK,
FEL off FEL on FEL off FEL on...
It is practice in this way that brings one full understanding of the way of the orange.

got it now!
Thanks guys! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[r0GuE]

Pliers?? 1/2 inch drive sockets!
I've been calling them big blocks!! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
I may just change my wheels again, just to use them.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

With a B7500 and a 5' RMM wouldn't I need weight in the front to mow if the loader was off?

 

[r0GuE]

Well,.. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
My post was referring to the 2200 and a MMM. For a rear mounted mower, I would have to say it depends on how flat the area is that you will be maneuvering in. Also it would depend on if you were lifting the mower. If you are going to be maneuvering on hills, I would leave it on. I have never used a rear mower. I am getting a rear bagger (180 lbs) that the sales guy recommended I get weights or use the loader. I am planning on experimenting because to my way of thinking, weight located a few feet behind the rear axle will have much less effect than all the weight in front of the axle (engine 4 feet way). I'll test, and look for light steering etc. Then again, I have 250 lbs of deck in front of the axle to counteract.

 

[chrisjbell]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( With a B7500 and a 5' RMM wouldn't I need weight in the front to mow if the loader was off? )</font>

If you are going UP steep hills, then yes. I just brush hogged about 7 acres of very steep hills (got it done before the rain today /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif), and when I do "The Big Mow" I remove the loader. I'm running a B7300 and a 4' brush hog, which is similar to your setup (bit smaller all 'round).

Anyway, as long as I pay attention to the balance of the tractor going up and make sure the front wheels don't get too light on me (which is an indication that you might be starting to flip backwards) I much prefer mowing without the FEL. On the steeper slopes, I back the tractor up the slope, repeatedly.

The FEL actually raises the center of gravity, making it much more inclined to tip side to side, which I think is more likely than the chance of flipping backwards. The closest I've ever come to tipping was using the FEL on a slope.

And it always bears repeating - be prepared to drop your implement(s) if you are starting to lose balance. When I'm on risky areas I keep my right hand on the 3PH control, ready to shove it forward.

Having said all that, putting suitcase weights on the front would be a good idea. But I haven't and I'm not dead (yet!) /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif. Plan to keep it that way, too... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif