ms250

[mj58]

Has anyone here had trouble with the oiler on there saw mine seems to work fine for a while then not oil Igot the saw alittle over a year a go and took it back to the dealer because of it worked fine until today If someone here knows how to replace it i would sure like to know how I need the saw and realy dont have the time to let it set in the shop till they get ready to work on it thanks mike

 

[LD1]

Take the bar and chain off and see if the little hole in the bar is plugged with sawdust. Thats the problem 90% of the time. If thats not it, start the saw and let it idle with the bar and chain off and see if oil is flowing out of the hole.

Also, if it has an adjustable oiler, make sure it isnt turned all the way down.

Do these things and report back with your findings.

 

[s219]

You can use the corner of an old clipped up credit card to run down the groove in the bar to clean it out. I do this anytime I flip my bar. I also blow out the sprocket cavity, and the oil holes. As mentioned, the oil holes can also plug up and impede flow, but if it's just sawdust, it won't make too much difference (hard to believe, but true). If it's a chip or a solid piece of wood, then you definitely want to clean out the holes.

That said, recent model Stihls do not visibly oil like older saws, and it's misleading. You might see a light mist at the bar tip, but the saws will not sling oil like the old days. The only way to tell if they are oiling right is to confirm that you go through about 3/4 tank of oil per 1 tank of gas. On the flip side, if the chain binds and the saw struggles, then it's probably oiling poorly.

By experience, I can tell if the saw is oiling by the sound the chain makes as it runs along the bar. In fact, if you ever put a new bar/chain on a saw, listen to it and you'll hear the proper sound once the oil starts flowing all the way around the bar. It goes from making a metal-on-metal racket to something more like metal-on-butter...

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Mj58 did you get the chance to check out your saw yet?

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

I have exact same saw, new a few months ago, just ran about 2 gallons of fuel through it last weekend.

Every tank of fuel used also seemed to take 1/2 tank of oil.

Also notice when running at higher rpm chain seemed "dry" noticed by no oil mist but if I let it idle more (versus shutting it off) then chain was oily'er and when I hit the higher rpms after ideling for say 20 seconds then mist did fly off the chain onto the wood.

 

[teampryor]

I have 3 of these saws well two ms250's and one 025. I have never had a problem with the bar oilers. I believe it is because I use compressed air to thoroughly clean my saw and bar every time I change chains which is often because i do not sharpen my chains while on the saw. I would say three tanks of fuel and it gets cleaned up proper, part of the reason I have 3 too I guess. I also have two MS290's as well and have never had oiling issues. knocking on wood.
Burning 2 gallons of fuel in a chainsaw takes a long time. Sir you cut a lot of wood to burn 2 gallons in a weekend!

 

[newbury]

For those who wonder -
Stihl does not like to oil too much.
And further they design their saws for their chains. Often a non-Stihl chain does not accept the oil as well as a Stihl chain.

I've got two 660's that I use for CSM.
I've had both of the oilers swapped out to high capacity oilers. The same as they ship on the saws that go to Australia.

Before the swap a 32" bar and chain combo from Baileys would run dry when the oiler was maxed. Now it's well oiled.

 

[mj58]

I have`nt had a change to get back to sawing wood but this comeing week i will i thank you for your advive i will clean every thing up good and try it out it just may be i let something get stopped up you all have a good day mike

 

[ruffdog]

The oiler is driven off the clutch so it doesn't oil unless the sprocket is turning. The bar MUST lay nice and flat against the saw with no chips or grunge buildup otherwise the oil might just ooze out the side. I have seen some of the cheep bar oil (pic) have globby stuff in it that plugs the screen, so check your filter.

 

[buck12]

The oiler is driven off the clutch so it doesn't oil unless the sprocket is turning. The bar MUST lay nice and flat against the saw with no chips or grunge buildup otherwise the oil might just ooze out the side. I have seen some of the cheep bar oil (pic)<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286277"/>have globby stuff in it that plugs the screen, so check your filter.

How do you access the screen?

 

[ruffdog]

It looks just like the fuel filter and lays in the bottom of the oil tank. Get stiff wire, bend a simple loop, reach in and snag the hose behind large end where the filter plugs in. If you have to remove the hose, remove the hand bar, remove one screw on bottom of saw and remove plastic elbow piece, remove hose.

 

[mj58]

i finaly got back to let you all know i cleaded it all up good and it went dry on me again so i took it apart cleaned it up again and run it some more it has worked ok after that i will be back to cutting wood again tomorrow we will see what happens then thanks mike

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

I have 3 of these saws well two ms250's and one 025. I have never had a problem with the bar oilers. I believe it is because I use compressed air to thoroughly clean my saw and bar every time I change chains which is often because i do not sharpen my chains while on the saw. I would say three tanks of fuel and it gets cleaned up proper, part of the reason I have 3 too I guess. I also have two MS290's as well and have never had oiling issues. knocking on wood.
Burning 2 gallons of fuel in a chainsaw takes a long time. Sir you cut a lot of wood to burn 2 gallons in a weekend!

I do have too much wood.
After the big wind/snow storm last month I put up 8 cords so far cleaning up my front yard
Another 150 - 175 trees left to clean up in the yard and I am thinking I have about 50 cords more to process before the winter snow closes us in. Doubt we will get to it all.
I NW Minn / SE MB we can not even give it away anymore as we have BILLIONS of trees down.
Snowmo clubs alone doubt they will be able to get their trail systems fully open this year never mind the logging roafs, fire gaurd roads, etc... that are cover.

Kinda sad

good news is the ms250 runs perfectly.

 

[windy acers]

My ms310 did the same even after cleaning every thing and installing a new bar (16 inch).still little or no oil.I decided to enlarge the hole on the original bar,so far it has been normal oil flow. Maybe my chain is too long and I may need to remove a link.

 

[scollins]

I have a 1983 Stihl 026 that I had the dealer put an 026 Pro adjustable oiler in. I also have an MS-362 for big stuff.

As everyone suggests, I clean out the bar with a putty knife and compressed air, take off the little metal plate behind the bar and blast that off, too.

I tried "big box store" bar oil and found that it worked very poorly when cutting oak. The chain would "smoke" - NOT good!

I now use Stihl or Husqvarna oil. The gys at work really like the oil from Bailey's Supply.

The biggest thing is probably chips and debris getting into the oil tank, when it is refilled in the "woods". I let the saw cool off a bit, and then pour just a tiny bit of saw mix over the oil plug to get the junk off there before I pop the cap. That way, the oil stays "clean".

For really cold weather cutting, Stihl also makes a winter grade bar and chain oil.

If the bar comes into contact wth the "dirt", that could also partially clog the bar groove, cutting down on the oil.

SC