Multiple questions

[Tchamp]

Took possession of my new project a 2422 that has had the engine upgraded to a Subaru 25 hp. The engine has about 10 hours on it since new. I found out by experience now the hard start in cold weather.
Am going to look into getting a stronger amperage battery to turn over faster, and also look into a high torque starter as well. I was able to get the equipment to run, but found out the wiring has been (altered) to say it politely. Everything seems to work, with the exception of the lights. But not in the manner that PT. Intended.

There has been a electric fuel pump installed on the unit as an upgrade to the vacuum style pump on the original engine which I believe is an improvement( don’t have to worry about flooding my oil with gas.) It does not have the sensor for the oil cooler fan to run properly instead it the fan is wired into the light switch.
The ignition was removed when i purchased not running and i ordered a switch from PT. It starts and runs but when i switch the ignition off it stays running, it has a switch on the left of the steering column that is run from the power to the fuel shut off solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor to stop fuel and effectively kill the engine.
The pto switch works normally and the pump motors for the drive tires and work as expected even when hot.

I do have concern for the steering and pto. pump. ( not sure what the terminology is for this one, it is the two smaller pumps at the back of the engine under the exhaust). It is weak to say the least. When it is hot, it will not lift the fel booms with the power rake attachment when it is attached. I thought it might be air in hydraulics but when i installed the hose to bleed system i did not see any signs of air. I am not sure of anything to do but maybe install a pressure gauge in series on the outlet of the pump and check pressures. I will probably leave pressure gauges there permanently anyway for further references for i can see what the pumps are doing and not have guess about what is going on. Less work too.
Any suggestions or recommendations before I decide the pump needs to be pulled off and be rebuilt would be appreciated.

Also, do any of you know where i can purchase a rebuild kit, pump assembly, have any part cross references, or someone to recommend to purchase from, or send out to get rebuilt? The manual that PT. Sent lists the part number for the pump i have as a P139 if anyone has any info for this it would greatly be appreciated. PT said the pump new is around $600. But if i can get a kit to rebuild myself i would rather go that route. ( if it needs it, which i would not be surprised because the hour meter shows 2054 hours.) all this i have found out on my first day of possession lol.
I have the grapple front bucket but it seems to not function as well as i had hoped. The grapple does not collapse down far enough and when i pick up brush it tends to want to slide out when i am transporting. ( any suggestions) I Was thinking of installing a longer stroke cylinder, Or cutting off the pivot arm and adjusting it to a different position so it will allow the grapple to close more. Anyways i am excited with my new find and am eagerly looking forward to getting the bugs out and running this little beast to its fullest potential.

I have another capability with this unit that i was pleasantly surprised with and didn’t not see it listed on the PT. Website. It is a setup to do directional boring, to run any type of line up to 3 inch diameter under roadway, plumbing under slabs etc.... was another cool piece to my arsenal..... will send pics.

 

[ponytug]

Lots of questions.

I'm not sure on a number of them, but the hot FEL lack of lift is unlikely to be air in the system. Even if you are getting air into the FEL/Aux circuit, or have air in that circuit, you would need to bleed that at the end of the FEL cylinder. Generally, cycling the cylinders purges the air out of those circuits. The bleed hose just bleeds the filter/charge pump/wheel motors circuit. The other pumps pull unfiltered oil from the main tank. Reason #319 why you want to keep your quick connects super clean. I now use brake cleaner to clean out the quick connects before coupling them. (Thanks to Chet Larson) I suspect the grapple issue is related, and both are due to a worn pump.

The fan is a simple temperature switch, covered in other threads. I would add a relay, as the PT switch is a little light duty for the fan. Also the switches are available on eBay.

You could relocate the power for your fuel solenoid onto the main power from the ignition switch and then it will function as designed.

PT makes it very difficult to determine pump models, but you can get rebuild kits from them I believe. If Terry is suggesting a new pump, I would probably go that route, as he tends to have a good idea of what is repairable and what wears out. Having seen one apart, I can say it is beyond my / my shop's capabilities. (Cleanliness and shear amount of clean space needed, not to mention the intricacies of it.) For me, I couldn't tolerate the downtime to rebuild, as my PT is a daily driver. Changing the timing belt, and adjusting the valves was a long down time for me.

Congratulations on the directional borer! I would love to see a thread on it; I have always wanted one- for three locations for pipes on the ranch.

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

Also make sure your steering wheel isn't cranked all the way to one side when you try to operate the FEL. Not sure how your machine is plumbed, but my 425 has pressure to the steering valve, then, the power beyond port on the steering valve feeds the FEL valve bank/aux PTO. If I crank the steering wheel all the way to one side, the FEL will stop responding. If I let off just a little on the steering wheel, the FEL works as normal.

So that's worth a check.

 

[joshlee]

Hey there Tchamp. The other guys on here can correct me if I'm wrong, but the ignition switch when it is in the "on" position is allowing the CDI box behind or under ( I don't remember which) the starter to run electrical current to the spark plugs. The CDI box is connected to the one solenoid ( for the starter) post which allows it in a "on" position when switch is on. Years ago when I bought my 425 it kept on shutting off when I would be out driving around. Here it was a loose connection to that CDI box. Tightened it up and it fixed everything.

The grapple bucket could be repaired how you said. That's probably how I would do it.

 

[Tchamp]

Hey there Tchamp. The other guys on here can correct me if I'm wrong, but the ignition switch when it is in the "on" position is allowing the CDI box behind or under ( I don't remember which) the starter to run electrical current to the spark plugs. The CDI box is connected to the one solenoid ( for the starter) post which allows it in a "on" position when switch is on. Years ago when I bought my 425 it kept on shutting off when I would be out driving around. Here it was a loose connection to that CDI box. Tightened it up and it fixed everything.

The grapple bucket could be repaired how you said. That's probably how I would do it.

Wheni put the ignition switch in i did not install, just plugged it in, i was thinking i will be pulling the wiring out of the column and redoing it. I later found out today that the switch has to be grounded to kill engine, one problem solved....

New problem. Was running the 2425 and knocked a rag into the well..... got sucked up into the engine air intake and now i have to pull engine to replace cooling fins on fly wheel. Happy times here. Lol

Does anyone know if the front shroud and cooling fins on the flywheel of a robin air 22 hp fit a 25 hp robin air ? I have the old motor but don’t know if it will interchange.

 

[Tchamp]

Lots of questions.

I'm not sure on a number of them, but the hot FEL lack of lift is unlikely to be air in the system. Even if you are getting air into the FEL/Aux circuit, or have air in that circuit, you would need to bleed that at the end of the FEL cylinder. Generally, cycling the cylinders purges the air out of those circuits. The bleed hose just bleeds the filter/charge pump/wheel motors circuit. The other pumps pull unfiltered oil from the main tank. Reason #319 why you want to keep your quick connects super clean. I now use brake cleaner to clean out the quick connects before coupling them. (Thanks to Chet Larson) I suspect the grapple issue is related, and both are due to a worn pump.

The fan is a simple temperature switch, covered in other threads. I would add a relay, as the PT switch is a little light duty for the fan. Also the switches are available on eBay.

You could relocate the power for your fuel solenoid onto the main power from the ignition switch and then it will function as designed.

PT makes it very difficult to determine pump models, but you can get rebuild kits from them I believe. If Terry is suggesting a new pump, I would probably go that route, as he tends to have a good idea of what is repairable and what wears out. Having seen one apart, I can say it is beyond my / my shop's capabilities. (Cleanliness and shear amount of clean space needed, not to mention the intricacies of it.) For me, I couldn't tolerate the downtime to rebuild, as my PT is a daily driver. Changing the timing belt, and adjusting the valves was a long down time for me.

Congratulations on the directional borer! I would love to see a thread on it; I have always wanted one- for three locations for pipes on the ranch.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Tchamp]

View attachment 680396View attachment 680397

Here are the pics of the directional boring setup, it is used in conjunction with the auger configuration. One of the rods are bent but i may be able to straighten enough to use for the last pipe on a bore.

 

[joshlee]

Sorry about all of the problems your having with it right now. With the cooling fins issue, I'm not sure about the shroud but there are people on here who would know. With the hydraulic pump issue, if something would need to be rebuilt, for me it would would be a big undertaking. My cousin which is very good with repairing mechanical / electrical things rebuilt a pump years ago and it didn't last very long. I think this is because doing that job of rebuilding a pump requires an expertise that takes time to acquire. Fortunately, from what it sounds like, the pump issue you have is with the Gear Pump. That's a good thing because it's not as expensive or intricate to fix as the Tram Pump ( Variable Displacement Pump) which is for your wheel motors.

That's good you got the ignition switch issue fixed, at least. One down, more to go :thumbsup:

 

[the old grind]

Something you may want to be sure of. Ignition switch and machine seem old enough to be the old 'Ground To Stop' magneto type.

Depending on the year the Subaru engine is it could have a 'Ground To Run' which has predominated in the safety age.

This has comes up when re-powering Terramites with post vs pre-millennium Honda GX-series twins.

btw guys, auto parts stores often carry switches with the 'M' terminal which is GTS for our older SGAs.

 

[m5040]

With the boom lift problem, do the other functions work properly? does the bucket tilt back with force? Does it steer easy? You have to determine if one/both lift pistons have bypassing seals (if only the lift is anemic). To check the pump PSI you need to use an appropriate gauge and install in pressure side of pump, then slowly close off the flow while watching how high the gauge climbs. DON'T LET IT CLIMB TOO HIGH OR THINGS WILL BURST, CRACK, COME APART.

Ideally, the test equipment-gauge would be installed into the output line of the hydraulic pump that supplies the loader. A proper tester has a handle like a water faucet which you then close slowly and watch the gauge climb to spec and a little beyond, then rapidly open the valve again so you don't overheat the pump.

If it passed the PSI test but still can't lift any weight, you have a leak somewhere, typically a internal piston seal that lets the oil bypass from the lift side to the down side and back to the tank. You could hear this with a stethoscope, or put the handle of a screw drive in your ear and hold the sharp end on each cylinder, then take your picture of you doing that and send it to us. You will hear a hiss on a leaking cylinder.

It the loader moves extremely slow, but has lifting power, then you have a restriction (suction filter?) or the pump is worn.