Multiple top-links?

[dliston]

I have both a box and a bush hog - I find myself changing back-and-forth quite a bit. The top link needs to be reset every time - and getting the top link set "just right" for the box blade can sometimes be a pain... a little adjustment can take you from skipping over the dirt to digging to China... How does everyone else do it? Do you have multiple toplinks - one for each piece of 3ph equipment that needs one?

Thanks...

 

[gabby]

Yes. I have a dedicated top link and linch pins on every 3ph attachment. It's money well spent. I also have a dedicated hitch pin for each wagon that stays with the wagon when it's unhooked. Plus I keep spare hitch pins and linch pins on each tractor. TSC is a good source.
Gabby

 

[jinman]

Two words: hydraulic toplink. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif See the attachment. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[ronjhall]

Jim has already said it. Hydraulic Top Link.

I have 3 top links besides the Hydraulic.

I find it easier to just use a dedicated preset top link for the Rotary Cutter, Landscape Rake, and weight box.

 

[MMM]

I use a paint marker and a tape measure. Get it right, measure and write it down on implement. Keep tape in the tractor tool box . You really don't need top link for cutter, chain and turnbuckle works better (lets deck float).

 

[stephan]

MMM,

Can you attach a picture of your chain and turn buckle toplink replacement for a rotory cutter. Can the picture include a close-up of the link and a picture of the RC attached so I can see what sort of RC it is please?

Stephan.

 

[OhioGuy]

I had to make a toplink for a Yanmar tiller. It's so short. I just took a old piece of bar steel and drilled a 3/4 hole on either end. I used a piece of chain on the tiller as a toplink to get the right length. It works real well, no adjustment needed.
Curt

 

[Freds]

I think a hydraulic toplink would be good if you needed to adjust the implement while you were using it, but for something that is set up the same way every time or you have a favorite setting... then measuring works well and doesn't cost anything. I did end up buying a second toplink at TSC. It was a LOT less money than the dealer wanted for a factory one and I liked the design better.

 

[MMM]

Sorry, no digicam. Whatever is left of check after wife and kids get thru goes to farm. If I couls write it off, I'd consider buying one. I've got a scanner though, I can take a pic and scan it when I get home from North Sea in a couple weeks. The RC is a brute- over 1000lbs.

 

[MMM]

Hey Stephan, see if this helps 'till I get back. I run cat2 hitch so you'l"ll have to figure your own dimensions. It's a big 24" turnbuckle with clevis ends, and is welded to 1.25"sch80 to avoid pin wear. (Probably use 1"pipe for cat1), 1/2" chain, 1'2" shackle and an endless link welded around a sch80 pipe at cutter top link mount. Keep chain shorter than turnbuckle to limit distance cutter can rotate forward.. You dont need that much for float effect, and I've heard stories that using only chain, cutter can back flip if front edge hits something solid. I'm sure you could probably find another way to do this and just use links in chain for adjustment. I just had the turnbuckle hanging in barn, doubt they're cheap.

 

[PineRidge]

Doug, Jim and the others are steering you right on the hydraulic top link it will save you a lot of time and it makes any box-blade a whole lot easier to use.

I have found out however that when I need to use my backhoe the stock top link must be used in conjunction with the backhoe. It's about the only application where a hydraulic top link can't be used, at least on my Class III Boomer anyway. Fortunately removing the hydraulic top link is a 1 minute job and requires no tools.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Doug,

For years we always had a top link for each implement and when disconnecting, we disconnected from the tractor and let the top link on the implement.

I am in the process of adding a hydraulic top link myself...

-JC

 

[stephan]

MMM,

Don't put yourself out with the pictures I am just curious to see how you did it and if you have guide wheels on your RC. What people are doing here is having a stiff toplink and having chain from the toplink to the back of the RC and a hinge at the bottom of the 3pl. Do you understand what I mean? Mostly with lighter weight RC's but mine is like yours somewhere in the 400kg range.

 

[MMM]

Yep Stephan, it's got the chains fron A-frame to the rear also, but no front wheels, just a 12"dia rear. Before you say the turnbuckle/chain wasn't necessary, this cutter had a sliding block arrangement for float, and it's own notched toplink. Toplink attatched to block and slid in a channel with adjustable stop. That was twisted and bent when I purchased cutter for 380 bucks. I used the chain and turnbuckle to keep it as original as I could. The notches on the cutter's toplink were for a yoke attatched to chains which go to front of deck. This is where the front deck height is set. When mowing the weight of cutter is off lift arms and everything is on toplink at full lower on pos controls. The lift arms just control sway and raise cutter for transport. I have the front chains attatched to my lower toplink pin (my tractor has 2). This winter I'm going to have the original toplink straightened out and pin bosses welded, redrilled and bushed so I can restore it as original. This cutter is really heavy and I am nervous using it with original design altered.

 

[texastomtom]

You should go to work for the tractors companies.

You picture shows 10 times as much detail as deere's official web site,

You guys probably know what all this is supposed to look like but I still need detailed pics