MX5100 3-remotes under $500 and TNT under $400. Details.

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Great write up. I like the photo where your doggy photo bombed you the best.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Here is the end result:

View attachment 475767View attachment 475770View attachment 475769View attachment 475768View attachment 475766

In the last pic, you will notice I made a new hook for hanging the TL when not in use. The OEM one wasnt big enough, and wasnt enough there for me to even make it big enough for the 3" cylinders.

Havent tried it out yet other than for pics and inspecting for leaks. Getting ready to do a little blade work right now over some tile/trenches I did a few months ago.

Feel free to post away now, or ask me anything.

Quite a project and very nice work! Had I seen this earlier, I probably would have used some of your ideas for my project.

In my case, I had a single hyd. outlet on my L3430.



I needed 2 more outlets for my York Rake so I added 2 Kubota OEM QR ports ($400)



I used a Prince Wolverine 2 spool FEL valve ($170) along with misc. hoses and fittings ($ 90).



I made a simple bracket for the valve that attaches to 2 existing bolts on the ROPS. I tapped into the hydraulics for the BH90 backhoe instead of running a line to the FEL hydraulics. There are no permanent modifications to the tractor. I had Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics make up a Top & Tilt Kit ($1100) and I was in business.





At almost twice the price, it was quite a bit more expensive than your project and only added 2 QR outlets. I'm guessing it took a lot less time though.

In any case, thanks for your excellent description and thorough documentation!



x

 

[rswyan]

From everything I read, yes flat face are a better coupler.

The drawbacks...

About twice the cost. Which adds up when I bought 8 pairs of couplings.

Depends on where you buy them.

I use 1/4 and 3/8 couplings ... no real need for anything bigger as the flow on my tractor is pretty limited, not to mention I don't want a lot of flow on some of the cylinders I'm controlling (grapple, top link, side link)

The prices at the place where I sourced my sets of flat face couplers seem to still around what I paid when I switched everything over (last fall ?) IIRC.

1/4" set (male and female) - $11.63 per set

3/8" set (male and female) - $15.56 per set

1/2" are a little more:

Flush Face Coupler Sets

At the time they were also running a 5% or 10% off on orders over $100 ... which I took advantage of. They have a 5% off on orders over $100 going currently.

They are imports ... so that could be an issue for some folks.

Compatibility. ISO 5675 is standard ag. So you have to change everything you have, and everything you buy in the future. And would make it difficult to borrow, or rent 3PH equipment unless you make up a set of adapters.

Making up a set of adapters isn't a terribly expensive proposition for me.

So you wanna go pick up a wheel disc on c-list that has hydraulic lift.....change couplers.

Wanna borrow the neighbors towable bushhog with hydraulic wheels.......need some adapters or change couplers.

Neighbor wants to borrow your rear angle blade with hydraulics in trade for you borrowing his bushhog.....need to swap couplers or make adapters.

I totally understand.

In the end, I chose ISO 5675 just for simplicity. They have worked for years, and still work just fine. So I loose a few drops of fluid each time I uncouple.....keeps things nice and lubed and the couplers working nice.

What I don't like about them - besides the fluid leakage - is that they tend to attract dirt.

Not all that big of a deal on a male end ... just wipe it off with a rag before you connect.

The female end is more of a problem however ... but it ain't on a flat face ... as there is no hard-to-clean cavity to collect dirt ... just a flat face that is easily wiped off with the rag before connecting ...

 

[LD1]

So far I have had the grapple on/off twice. Don't know if it's just me, but ff couplers seem alot harder to hook up if there is even the slightest bit of residual pressure.

Last time I had to use a piece of tape on the joystick trigger and detent it in float to keep pressure off. Just cycling the stick with the tractor off like when doing the loader didn't work.

And no easy way to bleed like AG's by just pressing in on the poppet with my multitool. Will probably switch them to AG's

 

[k0ua]

So far I have had the grapple on/off twice. Don't know if it's just me, but ff couplers seem alot harder to hook up if there is even the slightest bit of residual pressure.

Last time I had to use a piece of tape on the joystick trigger and detent it in float to keep pressure off. Just cycling the stick with the tractor off like when doing the loader didn't work.

And no easy way to bleed like AG's by just pressing in on the poppet with my multitool. Will probably switch them to AG's

Of course I have Ag's but here is what I do. I of course bleed the valve with the tractor not running, by operating it several times. Then when I take off the Ag quick connects, one male and one female, I immediately plug the grapple side quick connects together then immediately unplug them again. This lets a little of the fluid in the hosed "puke" out. Just a few drops but I think it makes a difference in pressure building up in the grapple hoses from temperature differential. I then plug the connects together again for storage. I never have any trouble re connecting them. I think the slight "deficit" of fluid in the hoses makes sure that no real pressure builds up in them. Of course I put the caps back on right away on the tractor side Quick Connects.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Some quick disconnect (not screw-on) are advertised as being able to "connect under xx psi" up to operating pressure and others have a "pressure eliminater" feature. Has anyone ever used valves with either of these features?

 

[rswyan]

So far I have had the grapple on/off twice. Don't know if it's just me, but ff couplers seem alot harder to hook up if there is even the slightest bit of residual pressure.

It's not just you ...

Last time I had to use a piece of tape on the joystick trigger and detent it in float to keep pressure off. Just cycling the stick with the tractor off like when doing the loader didn't work.

If mine are being stubborn I just turn the key on, depress the diverter button and move the joystick and, while holding it out-of-neutral, push the coupling on ... works every time.

One of the advanatages of having a smaller tractor ... and long arms ...

BTW - all the couplings for the rear remotes are on the valve body ... so pretty much the same deal there.

I really do like your push-to-connect/pull-to-disconnect set up tho' ... very nice :thumbsup:

 

[number9L]

Can you give a link or part # / brand of flow control valves you used?

 

[LD1]

Surplus Center

If I had to buy them, it would be from above.

The ones I used were parker and pretty pricey. But already had them.

 

[motownbrowne]

I just ordered everything (I hope) that I need for the remotes and TNT. Bailey's prices have gone up. Each cylinder is up about $40. Also, they were out of stock for the top link. I did however find the same cylinders for quite a bit less here:Welcome to the store

Both cylinders plus shipping was under $200. Same from Bailey's was almost $400.