MX5100. Got my stuff ordered for hydraulics

[LD1]

Yea, OEM aint cheap. Thus my decision to do my own design

 

[k0ua]

Yea, OEM aint cheap. Thus my decision to do my own design

And the reason OEM is not cheaper is because they have always sold plenty of it and they can get it. There is no reason the OEM should cost that much. Some other manufactures charge half of that for the same thing. But people want it and pay it. And as long as people pay it, the price will stay high. Just like .22 rimfire cartridges. As long as people will pay $60 for a brick of .22 rimfire, there just isn't a reason to lower the price to closer to the manufacturing costs. It has become the normal price, just like OEM remotes.

 

[FatTire]

I think you made a good choice going with just one float. I often float the tilt on the rear blade when grading driveways, but so far I've never run into a situation where I wished I had a 2nd float valve. Looking forward to seeing your project.

 

[LD1]

I think you made a good choice going with just one float. I often float the tilt on the rear blade when grading driveways, but so far I've never run into a situation where I wished I had a 2nd float valve. Looking forward to seeing your project.

Was wanting the second (or third) float as an option.......because its a 4th position. Its not like you "have" to use it. I'd rather have it and not use it than not have it and wish I did.

My thoughts for a second float were for sidelink. Like blading snow and wanting it to follow a contour or crown and not dig into whats below or leave snow. Or running something that has 4 gauge wheels, like a RFM, you could allow side-side float.

So I know for sure I want to have the ability to float both the top and side links. But made the decision to get a single float spool, because I cannot think of any instance where I would need to float BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. A single spool is only a minor inconvenience, in that I would just have to swap the hoses to put the float spool in control of whatever I need.

 

[The Fred]

The perfect choice for me would be 2 float and 1 that would stay in position so I could run say a woodsplitter. On the L3940 I always use the float for the upper link while grading with a box blade it's handy also using the wood chipper it gives me lots of ground clearance while transporting it to the job at hand.

My new Kioti 260 has 1 spring loaded and 1 that stays either way. You can't get a floater from Kioti at least what my dealer told me.

Upper link float works well with the 8 foot land plane too.

I like having the options on all the valves.

Fred

 

[LD1]

I decided I didnt want a detent. A second float would have been nice, or even all three, but would have added $200 to the build, as it would have pushed me either into a special order monoblock triple, or a stackable valve. A 3-spool valve with 1 float spool is a more common "off-the-shelf" valve, and thus a good bit cheaper.

My thinking for not wanting a detent, is that third spool is gonna be used most likely for a rear angle blade. Or anything else hydraulic I get aside from the TNT. Like hydraulic rippers on a box blade, or spool tilting on a tile trailer, or raise/lower of a dump trailer, raise/low of field implements like a disc, etc. No plans for a logsplitter. And when feathering the controls for angling a blade or similar, I dont want to be fighting the detent.

And if I ever do have a need for the detent, nothing a 99 cent bungy strap cannot solve. So my though was that its easier to work around NOT having the detent, than it is to work around it if it is NOT needed.

 

[LD1]

Just ordered this New Sure Grip Hydraulic Single Trigger Two Button Control Joystick Mod SG13M21 | eBay

Everything is supposed to arrive tomorrow except for the joystick that I just ordered. Just in time for me to have to go back to work for 4 days straight @12/hrs a day:mur:, so I doubt I'll have time to get much done til next week. But hopefully I'll have enough time to mock stuff up even if only temporary so I can start figuring on fittings and hoses.

So so far, the running tally is $880.90 And all I need is hoses and fittings.

But like I said with those, I have most of what I need already, just a matter of making up the hoses, and seeing which fittings I use. But in the interest of cost, I'll figure hose and fitting prices as if I had to order everything, either DHH or surplus center, etc. that way I can keep an accurate running tally in case others are interested in doing similar. But looks like I am gonna come in under the $1000 mark for 3 rear remotes (one with float), a FEL diverter with joystick, and a TNT setup.

True cost probably will end in the $1200 range if I had to buy all the hydraulic hoses and fittings.

 

[LD1]

Everything has arrived this morning. Looking forward to getting this project started. Unfortunately I don't know now if I'll make much headway this weekend. Gotta work tonight and the next 3. 12hr shifts. And currently on my way to the eye dr as the wife is getting LASIK done. Hopefully I'll have enough time when we get back, and before I go to work, to get the valve mount figured out so I can get all my hose lengths. My access to the crimper is through work, I just keep the stuff I frequently need on hand.

Hopefully by mid next week I'll have this all wrapped up

 

[LD1]

Pretty major setback that likely is gonna cost me a week's time.

I ordered these couplers from trausch dynamics

Product Index | Trausch Dynamics[catalog]=1&data[itemcode]=2286679

Listed as a 1/2" body size and 3/8 thread.

Since I was gonna run 3/8 hoses, and getting the 1/2" coupler with 3/8 thread instead of typical 1/2" thread just made sense.

Well....they are NOT 1/2" couplers. Error on their site.they won't be open again til Monday morning :mur:

Wish I had opened the package when it arrived instead of just now. Realized this when I was measuring the sleeve to make the clamp mount, and it was significantly less than the 1.5" spec I had seen online. That's when I realized it's only a 3/8 coupler.

 

[prichard]

Sorry about the setback.

Looking forward to the build. Don't forget pictures.