crazyal
Super Member
It's too bad you couldn't get the dealer to pull the system apart and replace all the pieces noting any differences. It's probably one or two pieces that are with in spec but when they are used together it causes issues.
MX5100 Jerky 3pt hitch
- Thread starter 3boys865
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- kubota mx5100
From my reading and talking with owners over the years, all of the smaller Kubotas have this issue. I had an older L2350 that was terrible. It was so infuriating because no matter how smoothly you try to raise the 3 point it still jerks. It was impossible to finess the boxgrader. I have an M6800 now and it's as smooth as you would expect. I read somewhere a few years ago that it was designed that way by Kubota. I can't remember exactly what it said but that basically the smaller tractors have an incremental valving that only allows it to go up a certain amount at a time.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Yes many of the smaller Kubota's have what is called 1/4 inching by design and are marketed that way. They do not have Position control 3pt controls. But the L series of economy models have a true position control on the 3pt. and as such should be smooth in their operation, but sadly some are not. And sadder still is the denial by many in the service chain at Kubota that the problem even exists.
James K0UA
OP
3boys865
Silver Member
I was given the option by the dealer to try and make the 3pt operation better. The dealer was all for trying to make it right and was willing to rip it apart and try to "fix" it. However, when the dealer consulted the Kubota techs and the regional Kubota account representative, the response was that the tractor was not designed to be smooth. The 3pt on the GL and M series where "designed and equipped" to be smooth. Dealer told me Kubota said there was a 1 in 10 chance that they would be able to adjust it to make it smooth. I didn't like those odds... this is a brand new tractor with 2 hours on it and it just didn't seem right that it had to be broken open and "experimented" on to make a basic function of the tractor work as expected. Dealer offered for me to return it and swap it for another model which is the option I took.
Chilly807
Elite Member
Mm hmm.. I wish I'd had that option, but by the time I realized how bad it was it was too late to return without some major squealing and yelling. Since I'm not normally like that, I decided it wasn't worth the bad feeling it would have generated.
At the end of it, I might have still been "stuck" with the tractor and had bad blood between myself and my dealer anyway. They've been good to me in every other way I've needed them, and made an effort to help me "fix" the hitch issue.
I don't know what I would have done if they'd made the offer, to be honest. Other than the hitch, the L3400 fits my needs like a glove, and has been a decent piece of machinery. To date, I've had the front tires replaced at no cost, had a hydraulic cylinder on the loader repaired at no cost, and had the tractor split in two to repair a rusted clutch spline, again at no cost to me. Top quality work, on time, and pleasant to deal with every time. It's out of warranty now, so they'll really be happy to see me from now on..:laughing:
My budget didn't have enough room for a Grand L at the time, probably still doesn't for the sake of a smooth hitch. It would have probably had room for a different brand name, though. Kubota has always been expensive, but high quality. The equivalent Deere tractors have their own issues, and those were really the only two I seriously looked at. New Holland, Case, Bobcat, and Kioti all have dealers not too far away, but Kubota and Deere are close, one within a 10 minute drive.
How IS the switcheroo process coming along? What did you decide to get, or is it still a work in progress? I thought the GL4240 might be a good fit for you if you don't need the extra HP, but I don't know exactly what your needs are. I remember there's a fairly long section of gravel road to maintain. I think the loader capacity is comparable, and unless you need extra HP for the PTO, the 4240 is close to being the same size as the 5100 anyway. Might even be heavier, I haven't looked at all the specs obviously. In my limited experience, I rarely use all the engine HP except for mowing with a rotary cutter, but extra weight is usually a VGT (Very Good Thing). Traction is really the name of the game, which is why they call 'em tractors. A bit less HP usually means a lower gear and a little more time, which can be a factor to consider depending on your lifestyle and other commitments.
Loader capacity is a big one for us, the L3400 is on the low side of what we consider "enough" for our needs. Only an issue if we have to start feeding large round bales, it'll handle small rounds no problem, and we still have access to unlimited square bales for now anyway.
Sean
At the end of it, I might have still been "stuck" with the tractor and had bad blood between myself and my dealer anyway. They've been good to me in every other way I've needed them, and made an effort to help me "fix" the hitch issue.
I don't know what I would have done if they'd made the offer, to be honest. Other than the hitch, the L3400 fits my needs like a glove, and has been a decent piece of machinery. To date, I've had the front tires replaced at no cost, had a hydraulic cylinder on the loader repaired at no cost, and had the tractor split in two to repair a rusted clutch spline, again at no cost to me. Top quality work, on time, and pleasant to deal with every time. It's out of warranty now, so they'll really be happy to see me from now on..:laughing:
My budget didn't have enough room for a Grand L at the time, probably still doesn't for the sake of a smooth hitch. It would have probably had room for a different brand name, though. Kubota has always been expensive, but high quality. The equivalent Deere tractors have their own issues, and those were really the only two I seriously looked at. New Holland, Case, Bobcat, and Kioti all have dealers not too far away, but Kubota and Deere are close, one within a 10 minute drive.
How IS the switcheroo process coming along? What did you decide to get, or is it still a work in progress? I thought the GL4240 might be a good fit for you if you don't need the extra HP, but I don't know exactly what your needs are. I remember there's a fairly long section of gravel road to maintain. I think the loader capacity is comparable, and unless you need extra HP for the PTO, the 4240 is close to being the same size as the 5100 anyway. Might even be heavier, I haven't looked at all the specs obviously. In my limited experience, I rarely use all the engine HP except for mowing with a rotary cutter, but extra weight is usually a VGT (Very Good Thing). Traction is really the name of the game, which is why they call 'em tractors. A bit less HP usually means a lower gear and a little more time, which can be a factor to consider depending on your lifestyle and other commitments.
Loader capacity is a big one for us, the L3400 is on the low side of what we consider "enough" for our needs. Only an issue if we have to start feeding large round bales, it'll handle small rounds no problem, and we still have access to unlimited square bales for now anyway.
Sean
OP
3boys865
Silver Member
I went through a fairly exhaustive and lengthy shopping process and finally settled on the MX5100 HST. It was the best value tractor for what I really needed and somewhat of a compromise decision for me. Within the Kubota lineup, I was also considering the GL4240 and the M5140 hydro-shuttle. I loved the M5140, but it was really more tractor than what I needed long-term. Ironically, I stayed away from the Standard L series tractors because I had discovered during my research her on TBN that they had a problem with "jerky 3pt hitches". I never came across a single post about a jerky 3pt on the MX series until I started specifically asking questions about that model. I had assumed the problem only existed on the Standard L's. Wish I had tested the 3pt with a box blade at the dealer before I purchased :thumbdown:
Too bad, because the MX5100 is a great tractor for my needs other than the 3pt performance. I purchased the tractor to help maintain my property which includes mainly FEL work with grapple (firewood, brush etc...) and box blade work to maintain a 900 ft gravel driveway and a wet weather ditch that needs to be graded every year or so. I only put about 3 hours on the tractor, mostly with the grapple and it was perfect for that. However, the jerky 3pt hitch made it very difficult to grade with the box blade. I probably could have lived with it, but I knew it wasn't right. A brand new $25K tractor should not be so frustrating trying to use one of its core functions.
My swap is still in process... dealer was able to locate a new GL 4240 in another state (couldn't order from factory any longer). Almost bought the 4240 to begin with. Love the HST+ for the FEL work, and the LA854 loader is as good or better than the LA844. The 3pt hitch is much stronger and is smooth. Both weigh about the same, so I don't think I will notice much difference. Only PTO work I will do will be a 6ft bush hog and maybe a small garden tiller in the future so I don't think I will notice the drop of 8HP much with the work I will be doing. I will probably lose traction with the R4's before I run out of HP.
Dealer has received the tractor and is working to install the loader and 3rd function valve. Hope to have it next week :thumbsup:
Chilly807
Elite Member
Glad to hear it's coming together. I think you're right about the R4's and hp, even with R1's I normally lose traction before it stalls. The GL4240 should be a good tractor for you, it's too bad about the MX5100 though. Eventually Kubota may lose some of their market share because of this, and it'll get fixed. Too late for those of us that already have them, unless the fix is retro-fit-able (is that even a word??) and reasonably priced.
It's good your dealer went to bat for you, some have simply said "That's just the way it is, live with it." Sounds like they want to keep you as a long-term customer.
Sean
It's good your dealer went to bat for you, some have simply said "That's just the way it is, live with it." Sounds like they want to keep you as a long-term customer.
Sean
OP
3boys865
Silver Member
Yes, I found that thread and as best I can tell, that is the only documented fix that I could find. However, there was also alot of mystery as to exactly how it was fixed and what parts were used if I remember correctly....
Pharm
Silver Member
I want to correct myself from an earlier post - I had said that I didn't have a problem with a jerky hitch - but it appears that I do! It operates smoothly when I raise it up at a certain speed - but if I go real slow with a box blade - it does jerk. I don't do much work with a box blade and I haven't had the tractor that long so I didn't really notice. I thought I would try it this weekend. It shakes the tractor but not violently.
For my work I don't think it's really an issue ... but I am disappointed.:irked:
For my work I don't think it's really an issue ... but I am disappointed.:irked:
DieselnHooters
Platinum Member
I have the older configuration, MX 5000_those were all gear drive, no HST. maybe that helps ? - smooth 3pt hitch on mine even under heavy load, its a 2005 model bought used in 2008, I have worked 500 hrs on it since then ....no complaints
k0ua
Epic Contributor
From what has been reported the gear or HST does not seem to make any difference on "jerky hitch syndrome" You either got it or you dont.
murphy1244
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Luv that avtar thought I was seeing things but I saw the hand move.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Um.. what can I say?.. Sorry to hear that. Of course you know if you are trying to get to a certain positional height, you can "overshoot" and go past where you want to be and then slowly feather down (of course you can adjust your drop speed with the knob under the seat to suit) to get to where you want to be. it is just one more step, but you cannot slowly raise the hitch to feather a load in a box blade to a certain contour smoothly. As you have unfortunately found out.
James K0UA
OP
3boys865
Silver Member
Yes, you are right.... the problem is not getting to the right height up or down, it is being able to feather up when you have a load of gravel or dirt in the box and you are moving forward to try to spread it out. When the hitch jerks up, you end up letting out more material than you wanted to, so you then adjust down again and fight back and forth to get the right height and then start all over again.... impossible to get it smooth....no fun... :thumbdown:
Of course if you don't use a box blade for smoothing gravel or grading dirt and don't need fine control over the 3pt, then you may not even know that you have a jerky 3pt hitch because it is smooth if you raise it quickly in one big move of the lever....
DieselnHooters
Platinum Member
You maybe right and another thing, draft control is/was available on that model as an option, I know it was on the old 5000 at least, fancier hydraulics may translate into a smoother hitch?
KYDan
Platinum Member
Yes, draft control is a dealer installed option, but I don't think it would solve this problem. I fortunately, have one that has a smooth operating lift. I have a 700 + lb. box blade hanging on it and it works perfectly. I have tried inching it and it has a minuscule jerk that is not an issue when feathering. I have 200 hours on the tractor to-date and it has been a gem.
Chilly807
Elite Member
For those of you that are adventurous, I should mention that you CAN improve it a bit by reducing the tappet clearance on the 3-point position control valve. You won't get rid of it entirely, but it can be made somewhat better. Mine wasn't bad enough to go that route, so I simply set it back where I found it in the end.
Between the WSM setting and the factory setting there is a "zone" of adjustment where the 3pt actually will hunt up and down by itself, violently in the middle of the zone and more gently at the outer ends. Once you're out of the area where it hunts, the jump is very small, and gets larger as you approach factory settings.
I thought about leaving it just barely into the "stable" zone to reduce the amount of jump, but I wasn't sure if it would stay there or begin to hunt slightly over time. By that time I was getting fed up with removing the top cover and tweaking the valve, so it got set back to original.
Going from memory.. the factory gap is 0.045", WSM recommends 0.004-0.008". It seems to me up to about 0.016" it was smooth but was held dynamically by fluid pressure, at about 0.020" it started to gently hunt up and down. 0.025" was violent hunting, then it stabilized again by 0.035 but was jerky in very small increments. I briefly considered 0.035" and leaving it, but as I said, I was sick of seeing the inside of a Kubota transmission.
Sean
Between the WSM setting and the factory setting there is a "zone" of adjustment where the 3pt actually will hunt up and down by itself, violently in the middle of the zone and more gently at the outer ends. Once you're out of the area where it hunts, the jump is very small, and gets larger as you approach factory settings.
I thought about leaving it just barely into the "stable" zone to reduce the amount of jump, but I wasn't sure if it would stay there or begin to hunt slightly over time. By that time I was getting fed up with removing the top cover and tweaking the valve, so it got set back to original.
Going from memory.. the factory gap is 0.045", WSM recommends 0.004-0.008". It seems to me up to about 0.016" it was smooth but was held dynamically by fluid pressure, at about 0.020" it started to gently hunt up and down. 0.025" was violent hunting, then it stabilized again by 0.035 but was jerky in very small increments. I briefly considered 0.035" and leaving it, but as I said, I was sick of seeing the inside of a Kubota transmission.
Sean
Last edited:
Herkypilot
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I can answer this one - NO, it doesn't alleviate the jerky hitch issue. I have the dealer installed draft control. Still jerky.
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