My 135 Journey

[F6pilot]

I purchased my first tractor this past weekend, a 1966 MF135 Perkins diesel. She’s an ugly old pig but seems to be in fair shape mechanically, cranking immediately and running smoothly without smoke. In the coming weeks I plan to change all fluids, chase down and repair all of the chopped/spliced/disconnected wiring, and clean/degrease/prep for paint.

 

[F6pilot]

Started degreasing and cleaning with the pressure washer. Then started pulling things apart, starting with the sheet metal. A 4” grinder with knotted wire wheel made some quick work of paint removal.

 

[def38]

It looks like your 135 is going to look factory fresh once you're done. Keep us in photos as you make progress. While the metal is off, you might want to check valve lash on the Perky.

 

[F6pilot]

Well as factory fresh as a first time paint job shot in the driveway with a HF gun will allow. Lol The tough part is going to be prepping everything else. I don’t care to spend weeks scraping and cleaning the entire chassis.

I will look into the valve lash as suggested while it is apart. I also think the trans is topped off with water. Drove it around the yard a bit and had water all over the top of the case afterward when I stopped so I assumed it is pushing out somewhere. The tractor sat outside so water may have entered around the shifters.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Sad how OEM wiring is always systematically destroyed and replaced with your typical Mechanics or DIYer style wiring, butt connectors and BLACK TAPE.

Good solid tractor to pursue in this used category. We almost bought one in 72. Should have, but bought a cheaper off-shore tractor that came with more options. Paid the price twenty years later on trade-in.

 

[F6pilot]

I will take a butt connector and electrical tape over this mess any day. I am searching for the logic in using a couple of wire nuts and some smaller gauge wire to make this connection to the alternator. Oh, and lets just twist that wire together finger tight in the center...

The gas gauge doesn't work....likely because the single wire running from the sending unit is cut and draping down the side of the tank.

I've got to find a wiring diagram and chase all of this down.

 

[jticknor]

A pig?! Looks perfect to me! I've got two 135's and both of them are a hot mess in the wiring department. And both of them crank up without hesitation so Ill take it!

 

[F6pilot]

Disassembly and cleaning continued today with the removal of the gauges and dash. The rust on the hood was a little tougher to remove and I may end up taking it somewhere to be blasted. Once I get a few more things removed, I’ll roll it out for several rounds of Purple Power, oven cleaner, and finally a phosphoric acid rust converter.

Anyone have any experience with those $40 gauge sets on eBay? I have read they can be inaccurate but how far off can they be?

 

[Industrial Toys]

If you are like me, this is where the project would stall! Everything put in boxes until next week which then turns into ten years! lol

 

[F6pilot]

Lol. I can’t. I need this thing back together for spring cutting. The list is getting long, paint, tires, gauges, maintenance items. Right now I have more time than money.

 

[JethroB]

I inherited my dads 135. He fought electrical gremlins for 40 years. At some point a single wire alternator was installed and the regulator abandoned. What a mess left behind! Hope to clean it up one day. My dad kept it rattle can painted.
I tried to upload a copy of a scanned owners manual but apparently the file is too large. Enjoy your new tractor. They'll outlast all of us.

 

[F6pilot]

Thank you Jethro. It looks like you inherited a nice 135. What year? I was going to go the rattle can route but cans only cover about 7 square feet which can get expensive real quick. I may maintain it with cans going forward. As for electrical, mine has a 3 wire alternator and what I believe is the regulator behind the dash was disconnected as well. The problem is not knowing the history and what modifications have been done over the last 50 years.

I located and downloaded a manual online but it was for a '74. It will likely be fine for most if not all of the mechanical but the wiring may not be correct. I have a mechanical tach and the '74 has an electric so there are definitely some differences.

 

[JethroB]

Dad bought it new in 1975 when I was 15. It's the 3/2 geared Deluxe diesel model with the notorious leaky power steering assist. It sure was a nice upgrade from a gas Ford 8N. As far as I know the tach is mechanical but has died but the hour meter still seems to work at 5300+ hours. Not sure on that. Does your downloaded manual have two staples on the top of the cover page and coffee stains on the left? That one has been passed around quite a bit. Printed 4/73. Oops, has a 3 wire alternator. Regulator is beside the battery on mine.

 

[def38]

I see you apparently got your steering wheel off without much fuss. Mine nut is rusted and my impact turned it into rust powder when i attempted to remove it. Also, I have learned from your photo that my steering shaft is likely not tapered. Once the old wheel is removed, it will be replaced with a Nardi wood wheel. Also, I believe I am going to have to remove my Cav pump and install a new front o-ring seal. My oil level is creeping up and I suspect it is diesel fuel slowly leaking into the engine sump....but, enough of my stuff...keep the progress coming.

 

[F6pilot]

Does your downloaded manual have two staples on the top of the cover page and coffee stains on the left? That one has been passed around quite a bit. Printed 4/73. Oops, has a 3 wire alternator. Regulator is beside the battery on mine.

Yep, same manual.

I see you apparently got your steering wheel off without much fuss. Mine nut is rusted and my impact turned it into rust powder when i attempted to remove it. Also, I have learned from your photo that my steering shaft is likely not tapered.

The steering wheel was not an issue for me. The nut and washer were missing. I actually shot it with some PB Blaster and pulled it off by hand the next morning.

 

[Smokepole62]

"ugly old pig"? Looks to me like Veteran, with combat experience!

 

[F6pilot]

It honestly is amazing to think this machine is 55 years old and still solid. I was told it sat outside in the weather most of its life with a cup over the exhaust. While there is some rust and pitting of the hood and other parts of the sheet metal, nothing is rusted through like I expected.

I hit the chassis/engine with some oven cleaner today, followed by a heavy degreaser bath and a thorough rinsing. I spot primed all of the bare spots I could see and any other bits with rust with some Rustoleum primer. I found a gallon of Rustoleum Farm & Implement Massey Ferguson Gray and may find the time to spray the chassis this weekend.

I’m not going to worry about runs, drips, or errors on this one. It is destined for field work and just needs a new coat for protection only. It will certainly look better than it did and should hold up longer being stored out of the direct elements.

 

[JethroB]

A coat of paint goes such a long way. You'll be even prouder of her. If you find a good reproduction of the original tachometer please let me know. My needle is gone. Note it's counterclockwise.

 

[F6pilot]

I am looking at replacing all of the gauges and switches. My tach was disconnected and full of rusty water, others full of condensation, headlight switch rusted up, etc.. I have located some aftermarket units at yesterdays tractor but not an original reproduction of the tach. I will keep an eye out in my searches. I couuld potentially send you mine if you think you could salvage the needle.

 

[redman135]

Hello F6pilot, re the water in gearbox. There are 3 primary culprints. The 2 obvious ones are the gear stick boots. Yours have been replaced at least once judging by condition, HOWEVER make sure the boot is properly seated and snug. The 3rd culprint is the boot on the draught control linkage which is easily overlooked. Look at the top link connection point then look forward at that level and you will see a rubber boot. It is easy to show and hard to describe.

Electrics: Check the condition of the insulation, it will probably be getting cracked at that age and be easier to replace than repair, also you will know exactly where things go to.
Originally these tractors came out with a generator, when the generator wore out it was replaced with an alternator.
Front Axle Pivot: there are 2 zerks, 1 for each bush(front and back) The back zerk is on top of the axle and under the fan shroud and you need a long nozzle to reach it. There is a part on the MF240 that can be fitted to (135) remote mount the zerk for easy access.

There is 1 saftey switch on the MF135, it is located on the top of the gearbox. Warning sign it is failing is the key is totally dead, not even a clik from the starter motor (flat battery) After 40+ years the termanals have corroded through.

Good Luck and enjoy your self