MF 135 In Frame Rebuild Advice

[Masseywrench]

looks to me like you got wwwwwwwwwwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyy too much oil in it.

I may have to agree with you on this after watching the two videos posted.

I see nothing wrong with the exhaust once it started. Sounded good as well. Probably could use some new injector nozzles to achieve that perfect atomization and it would make for a quicker starting tractor.

I am unsure how much oil your tractor takes on a oil change. I dont have that info handy. I would research that out first. Drain into a clean pan so that you can pour that oil into something later and measure the amount that came out of it.

There are only a few things will make the amount of oil grow/increase in the pan.
1. Mechanical lift pump is bad and puts diesel in the oil. Is that oil super thin and runny?
2. Injector pump seal leaking and putting diesel in the oil. Is that oil super thin and runny?
3. Power steering seal blown and dumps the PS fluid into the crankcase. Do you have a problem having to add fluid to the PS all the time?
These are the main causes.

Oil does not look milky so I dont suspect water/coolant being introduced into the system.
It does look runny to me.

37 degree Cold day and it starts running out of there that fast and flows like that is not all oil.
I think you could have diesel in the oil.

When you change it, and get it full with the correct amount does it still come out of there like that?

You will need to drive it/let it idle for a while and see if the amount of oil grows on the dipstick.

 

[Guoseph]

The Ford diesel drivers speak highly of AR9100.

Taking 10 seconds to start when cold could be due to a worn injector pump, dirty injectors perhaps but I never has a diesel that had an engine issue.

It must have a lot of blow by to get oil out of the dipstick and in fact it looks like the dipstick weld/crimp is broken because oil should not be able to get out there. How many quarts of oil do you put when doing a total change with filter?

Again maybe we have some that have seen this. Some blow by is normal but make sure it has the correct dipstick and see if you can borrow one to check it with. If you try to run it with the oil fill cap off what happens?

The oil dipstick is actually quite snug. I don't think they should be sealed when closed, so the oil is mostly seeping out.

Manual recommends 6.5 quarts with filter change. I put in 6 and it shows right in the middle of MIN and MAX and so I believe the dipstick is the correct one.

 

[Guoseph]

I may have to agree with you on this after watching the two videos posted.

I see nothing wrong with the exhaust once it started. Sounded good as well. Probably could use some new injector nozzles to achieve that perfect atomization and it would make for a quicker starting tractor.

I am unsure how much oil your tractor takes on a oil change. I dont have that info handy. I would research that out first. Drain into a clean pan so that you can pour that oil into something later and measure the amount that came out of it.

There are only a few things will make the amount of oil grow/increase in the pan.
1. Mechanical lift pump is bad and puts diesel in the oil. Is that oil super thin and runny?
2. Injector pump seal leaking and putting diesel in the oil. Is that oil super thin and runny?
3. Power steering seal blown and dumps the PS fluid into the crankcase. Do you have a problem having to add fluid to the PS all the time?
These are the main causes.

Oil does not look milky so I dont suspect water/coolant being introduced into the system.
It does look runny to me.

37 degree Cold day and it starts running out of there that fast and flows like that is not all oil.
I think you could have diesel in the oil.

When you change it, and get it full with the correct amount does it still come out of there like that?

You will need to drive it/let it idle for a while and see if the amount of oil grows on the dipstick.

Thanks for the advice but as I mentioned in the first post the oil volume is not increasing. The second video was taken after running it for an hour. The tractor will continue to push oil out of the dipstick hole until oil level shows below MIN on the dipstick. If I pull out the dipstick or oil filler cap light blue smoke will puff out of either hole.

Also blue smoke out the exhaust becomes less noticeable after start at 1K RPM or below, anything above that or pulling any sort of weight will increase the volume of smoke coming out the back.

 

[murphy1244]

that crankcase is not breathing.

 

[cmore]

My 135 diesel started blowing oil out of the filler tube and it turned out that it was a filter stopped up, I believe on the head. It was a fiber pad and they tore down the engine and put it back together but blow-by was still there. The high oil pressure may be the pressure relief stuck closed.

 

[Guoseph]

Yes, figure it is high pressure. Changed to a new oil filter day before videos. I may have gotten one of the 3 o rings crooked, but seems ok. May switch to a spin on to reduce potentially ham fisted errors on my part. I see smoke and oil coming out the crank case breather tube, I am assuming from that that it isn't clogged? The only thing I don't know how to check is the oil pressure relief valve. My research says it's not something I can get to easily so I'm gonna try Gale's additive suggestion.

 

[JimRB]

If the engine does not have an oil pressure gauge then you get a $30 one to read the oil pressure. If the tractor just has an idiot light by the filter you tap the pressure gauge in there.

 

[Guoseph]

If the engine does not have an oil pressure gauge then you get a $30 one to read the oil pressure. If the tractor just has an idiot light by the filter you tap the pressure gauge in there.

There is an oil pressure gauge and it is pegged on max as soon as I start the tractor and stays there until I turn it off. I've read this could mean broken gauge but seems other symptoms concur with the high pressure. If I get an aftermarket gauge where do I hook it to?

 

[murphy1244]

There is an oil pressure gauge and it is pegged on max as soon as I start the tractor and stays there until I turn it off. I've read this could mean broken gauge but seems other symptoms concur with the high pressure. If I get an aftermarket gauge where do I hook it to?

The same spot your gauge is on now.

 

[Guoseph]

The same spot your gauge is on now.

Thx.

Something like this?

2-1/2" Dry Utility Pressure Gauge - Blk.Steel 1/4" NPT Center Back Mount 300 PSI:Amazon:Automotive