My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)

[Forester Massey]

It sounds as if your tractor probably needs an engine overhaul. Granted, it's possible that the loss of compression on cylinders 2 and 3 could be from bad valves, but I doubt it. Likewise, the fouled plugs could be caused by worn valve guides or bad valve seals, but because you're losing compression on two cylinders I believe the oil which is fouling the spark plugs is coming from the oil control rings.

If you do find that your engine needs an overhaul you could do an in-frame overhaul, but I believe it's much better to bite the bullet and pull the engine to do a complete overhaul which will permit you to replace the rear main seal as well as inspect and/or replace the clutches. Some people may advise that you "split the tractor", but I've learned that it isn't much more work to simply remove the front-end assembly before pulling the engine. I did mine in a single evening, but the choice is yours to make.

Don't let the things I've found during the course of my restoration project discourage you. I'm being somewhat picky because I'm doing a complete restoration, but if my Massey 135 tractor were intended to be an average working tractor I would have done things very differently. For example, I would have probably have just given it a valve job and made some minor repairs before calling it a day.

I am excited to do the project. I have sent an oil sample in to see if it confirms what I think. I am planning on taking the block off for ease of working on engine. I bought a video of this at from yesterday's tractor that shows them doing a complete engine rebuild on this same model. Since I am a better visual learner it will help. I also bought a shop manual.

I found that I can buy what is called a comprehensive overhaul kit that contains pistons, sleeves, rings, valves, valve seals and guides, all gaskets, bearings as well as radiator hoses, plugs, filters, carb rebuild, points, plugs, oil pump rebuild. All for $800. I need all of that stuff since the mice chewed through anything they found tasty.

In the video, taking the front end off was not a big deal except for a stuck ty-rod that had to be heated. I will let you know how it goes and will watch for your updates.

 

[MasseyWV]

I am excited to do the project. I have sent an oil sample in to see if it confirms what I think. I am planning on taking the block off for ease of working on engine. I bought a video of this at from yesterday's tractor that shows them doing a complete engine rebuild on this same model. Since I am a better visual learner it will help. I also bought a shop manual.

I found that I can buy what is called a comprehensive overhaul kit that contains pistons, sleeves, rings, valves, valve seals and guides, all gaskets, bearings as well as radiator hoses, plugs, filters, carb rebuild, points, plugs, oil pump rebuild. All for $800. I need all of that stuff since the mice chewed through anything they found tasty.

In the video, taking the front end off was not a big deal except for a stuck ty-rod that had to be heated. I will let you know how it goes and will watch for your updates.

You'll need to know a few things before purchasing a comprehensive engine overhaul kit for your Continental Z-145 gasoline engine.

Carburetor: You'll need to confirm that the engine kit covers the carburetor model you have. If you have a Marvel Schebler carburetor, it should have a brass identification tag riveted to the upper half of the carburetor body with the model number stamped into it. For example, mine has a Marvel Schebler TSX882 carburetor.

Crankshaft: You'll want to wait until you've removed and disassembled the engine, or at least removed/inspected the crankshaft, before ordering the engine kit so you'll know what size main/rod bearings you'll need. If the crankshaft is worn necessitating the need to have it machined, you could need main/rod bearings that are .010, .020, or .030 oversized. Even if the crankshaft appears to be in good condition, you should measure it to be certain that it hasn't been machined previously. You should also look at the back of the main/rod bearings to see if they say std (short for standard) or if they're stamped with a size such as .010 indicating that they're oversized.

The following is one example of a comprehensive engine overhaul kit that contains everything I bought for mine. The only difference is that I bought the engine overhaul, valve train, and carburetor overhaul kits separately, but they were all made by Tisco.

Made by TISCO. For 135 gas Deluxe & 150 with Cont Z145 engine, standard 3 3\8 bore, NOT overbore. Pin type intake, key type exhaust valves. Carburetor kit is for Marvel-Schebler. Bearing sizes available in kit are standard or.010 , .020 .030 undersize. Kit includes: Sleeve, piston and ring kit, Complete overhaul gasket set including crank seals, Connecting rod bearings, Main bearings, Pin bushings, Exhaust valves, Intake valves, Valve guides, Valve springs, Valve keys, Fan belt, Oil pump repair kit, Oil filter element, Air cleaner hose, Radiator hoses upper and lower, Distributor points, Distributor condenser, Spark plugs and Basic carburetor kit. Specify when ordering rod and main bearing sizes in comments section of order form.
(Part No: 37K600)

From: Massey Engine Overhaul Kits 37K600 Comprehensive Overhaul Kit - Z145

The following is a list of everything the Tisco 37K600 comprehensive engine overhaul kit contains. Note that while you can purchase parts directly from Tisco via their website below, I've found that they can usually be found cheaper from other sources such as the one quoted above. Local dealers may also be somewhat cheaper, but not always.

509572M1 FAN BELT
1027653M1 EXHAUST VALVE
1027654M1 INTAKE VALVE
830490M91 VALVE GUIDE SET
18291A VALVE LOCK
841370M91 VALVE LOCK
840754M91 VALVE SPRING KIT
835817M91 OIL FILTER
BK49V MF CARB REPR KIT
OPK60A OIL PUMP KIT
1750216M92 REAR CRANK SEAL
830689M91 OH GASKET SET
180783M1 RADIATOR HOSE LOWER
194299M1 RADIATOR HOSE UPPER
1869704 CONDENSER
1954557 POINT SET
AL386 SPARK PLUG
837155M91 MAIN BRG SET STD
1017753M91 ROD BRG
760916M1 PIN BUSHING

From: Tisco Tractor Part Mart: Reliable Tractor Parts You Need. Fast :: MF O-HAUL KIT (37K600)

Here are a few more things you might want to consider...

Connecting Rod Bushings: You should be able to do most of the engine rebuilding work yourself, but you'll need to have a machine shop press and hone the connecting rod bushings because of the very close tolerances (.0004) required. For example, my local machine shop quoted me $25 a rod (x4) to do the required work.

Valve Guides: If the existing valve guides are worn beyond specs, you can remove the old ones using an air hammer and a special tool designed to fit the guides. However, the new valve guides must be pressed into the head to the correct depth as specified in the service manual. Do not drive the valve guides into place using a hammer or you risk causing damage to the new valve guides, or the cylinder head, or both. If you don't have the necessary tools, a machine shop can do the required work for you.

Valves: You'll have two options for doing the valve job, depending on the condition of the valve seats. If measurements confirm that the valve seats are within specs and they aren't pitted or burned you can simply lap the new valves to seat them. However, if the valve seats are eccentric, pitted, or burned you'll need to have a machine shop inspect and resurface them prior to lapping the valves into place.

Rocker Arm Assembly: You'll want to disassemble and inspect the rocker arm assembly, which isn't included in the comprehensive engine overhaul kit. Chances are that they're worn beyond tolerances so you should plan on purchasing a new rocker shaft and bushings which should cost between 50-75 dollars for both. You can press, ream, then hone the bushings yourself, but you might consider having a machine shop do it for you.

Oil Pump: The oil pump isn't difficult to rebuild, but the aluminum drive gear is pressed onto the pump gear shaft and is staked into place by a steel retaining screw. Pressing the aluminum drive gear on/off the shaft isn't difficult, but drilling and tapping the hole for the retaining screw can be tricky because of the disimilar metals. The aluminum gear is much softer than the steel shaft so a drill pilot must be used or the drill bit will tend to only cut into the softer aluminum. Alternatively, you might consider having a machine shop rebuild the oil pump for you, or at least drill and tap the hole for the retaining screw.

 

[Forester Massey]

You'll need to know a few things before purchasing a comprehensive engine overhaul kit for your Continental Z-145 gasoline engine.

Carburetor: You'll need to confirm that the engine kit covers the carburetor model you have. If you have a Marvel Schebler carburetor, it should have a brass identification tag riveted to the upper half of the carburetor body with the model number stamped into it. For example, mine has a Marvel Schebler TSX882 carburetor.

Crankshaft: You'll want to wait until you've removed and disassembled the engine, or at least removed/inspected the crankshaft, before ordering the engine kit so you'll know what size main/rod bearings you'll need. If the crankshaft is worn necessitating the need to have it machined, you could need main/rod bearings that are .010, .020, or .030 oversized. Even if the crankshaft appears to be in good condition, you should measure it to be certain that it hasn't been machined previously. You should also look at the back of the main/rod bearings to see if they say std (short for standard) or if they're stamped with a size such as .010 indicating that they're oversized.

The following is one example of a comprehensive engine overhaul kit that contains everything I bought for mine. The only difference is that I bought the engine overhaul, valve train, and carburetor overhaul kits separately, but they were all made by Tisco.



From: Massey Engine Overhaul Kits 37K600 Comprehensive Overhaul Kit - Z145

The following is a list of everything the Tisco 37K600 comprehensive engine overhaul kit contains. Note that while you can purchase parts directly from Tisco via their website below, I've found that they can usually be found cheaper from other sources such as the one quoted above. Local dealers may also be somewhat cheaper, but not always.



From: Tisco Tractor Part Mart: Reliable Tractor Parts You Need. Fast :: MF O-HAUL KIT (37K600)

Here are a few more things you might want to consider...

Connecting Rod Bushings: You should be able to do most of the engine rebuilding work yourself, but you'll need to have a machine shop press and hone the connecting rod bushings because of the very close tolerances (.0004) required. For example, my local machine shop quoted me $25 a rod (x4) to do the required work.

Valve Guides: If the existing valve guides are worn beyond specs, you can remove the old ones using an air hammer and a special tool designed to fit the guides. However, the new valve guides must be pressed into the head to the correct depth as specified in the service manual. Do not drive the valve guides into place using a hammer or you risk causing damage to the new valve guides, or the cylinder head, or both. If you don't have the necessary tools, a machine shop can do the required work for you.

Valves: You'll have two options for doing the valve job, depending on the condition of the valve seats. If measurements confirm that the valve seats are within specs and they aren't pitted or burned you can simply lap the new valves to seat them. However, if the valve seats are eccentric, pitted, or burned you'll need to have a machine shop inspect and resurface them prior to lapping the valves into place.

Rocker Arm Assembly: You'll want to disassemble and inspect the rocker arm assembly, which isn't included in the comprehensive engine overhaul kit. Chances are that they're worn beyond tolerances so you should plan on purchasing a new rocker shaft and bushings which should cost between 50-75 dollars for both. You can press, ream, then hone the bushings yourself, but you might consider having a machine shop do it for you.

Oil Pump: The oil pump isn't difficult to rebuild, but the aluminum drive gear is pressed onto the pump gear shaft and is staked into place by a steel retaining screw. Pressing the aluminum drive gear on/off the shaft isn't difficult, but drilling and tapping the hole for the retaining screw can be tricky because of the disimilar metals. The aluminum gear is much softer than the steel shaft so a drill pilot must be used or the drill bit will tend to only cut into the softer aluminum. Alternatively, you might consider having a machine shop rebuild the oil pump for you, or at least drill and tap the hole for the retaining screw.

Thanks Massey WV for your help. I don't plan on buying anything until I get it torn apart. Because of your experience with your rocker panel I had planned to look carefully at it. The rebuild kit I mentioned is a Tisco and I found it at Yesterday's tractor. The video I bought from them, while not fancy, did a good job of covering the basics in 90 minutes. If you know of a better source for buying these parts, let me know. So far I am happy with what I bought from them and price.

I got my results back from the oil analysis and it showed critically high levels of lead. They suspect excessive bearing wear from rod or main bearings. Lead is overlay material in bearings.

I plan to have machine shop do the head and oil pump since I saw what is was going to be like in the video. I may also have them do a bearing in the front of motor and I plan to replace that round bearing looking item with the balls. They video highly recommended I replace that.

I have not seen you or the video or anything talk about inspecting and/or replacing the camshaft? Why no mention anywhere? Seems to me it should be something looked into? Your a great help. Thanks.

 

[MasseyWV]

Thanks Massey WV for your help. I don't plan on buying anything until I get it torn apart. Because of your experience with your rocker panel I had planned to look carefully at it. The rebuild kit I mentioned is a Tisco and I found it at Yesterday's tractor. The video I bought from them, while not fancy, did a good job of covering the basics in 90 minutes. If you know of a better source for buying these parts, let me know. So far I am happy with what I bought from them and price.

I got my results back from the oil analysis and it showed critically high levels of lead. They suspect excessive bearing wear from rod or main bearings. Lead is overlay material in bearings.

I plan to have machine shop do the head and oil pump since I saw what is was going to be like in the video. I may also have them do a bearing in the front of motor and I plan to replace that round bearing looking item with the balls. They video highly recommended I replace that.

I have not seen you or the video or anything talk about inspecting and/or replacing the camshaft? Why no mention anywhere? Seems to me it should be something looked into? Your a great help. Thanks.

While I've never bought anything from Yesterday's tractors because a local dealer was able to get my parts for me cheaper, their prices seem comparable to most places I've seen and I've read that people had good experiences with them so I see no reason why you shouldn't continue to order parts there.

My camshaft was fine and I'm not certain why it's not mentioned more often, but I suspect it doesn't fail very often, probably due to the flat tappet design combined with quality construction. Replacement camshafts are available for the Continental Z-145 engine but they cost around $200 so if yours is in good condition you can reuse it. However, even if your camshaft is fine it wouldn't hurt to give the bearing surfaces and lobes a good polishing prior to reassembly. Alternatively, many machine shops offer this service (camshaft and crankshaft) for a small fee.

The "round bearing looking item with the balls" is the governor assembly. Referring to the image below, the governor assembly (37) works to keep the engine RPM's constant by using centrifugal force, where the ball assembly (34) spins with the camshaft, and the balls press against the outer cup and shaft assembly (33), which presses against a lever (26) connected to the lever and shaft assembly (25) that is connected to the throttle linkage (36).

The key that makes the whole thing work is the conical shape of the outer edge of the outer cup and shaft assembly (33). As the round balls of the ball assembly (34) press against the outer edge of the cup and shaft assembly (33) it converts centrifugal motion (spinning) into lateral motion (sliding), causing a series of levers to be moved as the engine RPM's change. If the engine speeds up the centrifugal force of the balls pressing against the outer edge of the cup and shaft assembly (33) increases and begins to overcome the force of a spring pulling against the levers, and if the engine slows down the force decreases allowing the spring to pull the levers back again.

 

[MasseyWV]

I've managed to get a lot done lately, both to my tractor and to my upcoming Massey 135 restoration project blog, but that's nothing when compared to what's coming very soon.

Mmmm, fresh baked distributor body, straight out of the oven.

 

[MasseyWV]

The steering box is... done.

 

[Forester Massey]

I have re-watched the tear down video and hope to begin this weekend. I did not know this motor had the flat tappet design. You may already know this but I highly recommend you refill you motor with an API rated SI,SJ oil. I am an Amsoil guy but there are others out there.

The current oils (API SN) have most of the zinc removed due to EPA. Its not as easy to find these oils at stores because they sell the most recent API oils. Diesel oils are high in zinc and will work but the current CJ oils have reduced sulphated ash and phosphorus because of diesel particulate filters on new trucks. If you can find a CI+4 oil it is better in my opinion. The downside to diesel oil is 15w-40 weight.

If you run the current SN oil you will toast the flat tappets. Hope this helps. Also, I saw your reply to transmission oil and it was helpful. I am going to send in a sample of mine to see if its any good before I spend the kind of money to refill that big mechanism.

 

[namyessam]

Forester Massey, I was told about the same thing you stated in message #397 by the Machinist that redid my head and reground my crankshaft for my tractor. I relayed this info in the thread on barn find. Sounds like you're pretty knowledgable about oil. Whats your opinion on a Zinc additive such as Lucas oil offers. I have used Rotella and the additive since my rebuild 3 years ago and although I do not work the tractor extremely hard, everything is good so far. As for the 15w-40 weight, we get well below 0 where I'm and and the engine cranks fine although it's in an unheated pole building. I'm contemplating changing the trans fluid also, Where do you send samples for testing?

 

[Forester Massey]

Namyessam, I saw your post after I sent my post. Let me give full disclosure and say I am an Amsoil dealer. I guess I am as particular about oils as MasseyWV is to his restoration project. I love engines and am fascinated about caring for them. First, if you use an oil that is API rated for your particular tractor it will work fine. I am just the type who would rather use the best quality and extend my drain intervals a bit and enjoy the benefits.

Here is my answers to your questions. From what I can tell, Rotella T has 1,200 ppm of zinc. This is plenty and don't spend money adding any more. You are good. I did notice Rotella makes a 10w-30 but I have not seen it.

As far as adding zinc to a API SN oil, I am not a fan about it. In the end you may be alright but not all zinc additives are of the same quality and I don't know what adding it will contribute to the actual ppm. I would rather buy an oil with it already in it to do the job.

I don't know about the Lucas additive. It may be fine. I have found that test results with Lucas oil are not great performers. Amsoil did a very comprehensive white paper motorcycle oil study. Motorcycles are not tractors but the oils are similar in that they are high zinc and phosphorus and prone to long periods of storage in changing weather conditions. The Lucas oil was one of the poorest performers in this test. Now that I think about it, most motorcycle oils will meet the tractor spec.

I get my oil tested at oil analyzers, oaitesting.com. It cost $25-30 to have an oil tested. Since the transmission holds a ton of oil, I would rather pay to test it to know its condition. I find it interesting to read the reports and I encourage everyone to do a test one time. It will open your eyes about its condition. Mostly, good oil being drained away. If its good I will leave it in for a while longer.

I know people get defensive about oil since its personal to them. I am about to rebuild my 135 because the oil, whatever was used, did not do its job. Hope this helps. Feel free to ask anytime.

 

[MasseyWV]

I have re-watched the tear down video and hope to begin this weekend. I did not know this motor had the flat tappet design. You may already know this but I highly recommend you refill you motor with an API rated SI,SJ oil. I am an Amsoil guy but there are others out there.

The current oils (API SN) have most of the zinc removed due to EPA. Its not as easy to find these oils at stores because they sell the most recent API oils. Diesel oils are high in zinc and will work but the current CJ oils have reduced sulphated ash and phosphorus because of diesel particulate filters on new trucks. If you can find a CI+4 oil it is better in my opinion. The downside to diesel oil is 15w-40 weight.

If you run the current SN oil you will toast the flat tappets. Hope this helps. Also, I saw your reply to transmission oil and it was helpful. I am going to send in a sample of mine to see if its any good before I spend the kind of money to refill that big mechanism.

As far as adding zinc to a API SN oil, I am not a fan about it. In the end you may be alright but not all zinc additives are of the same quality and I don't know what adding it will contribute to the actual ppm. I would rather buy an oil with it already in it to do the job.

Leave it up to the EPA to screw up a good thing.

Fortunately, I've been aware of the Zinc, Phosphorus, and ZDDP (Zinc dialyldithiophosphate) problem for many years, mainly due to my love of restoring older vehicles. While I'm anything but an oil expert, I can say that I've had good results using Valvoline, Amsoil, Rotella, and a number of different oils with the required levels of Zinc, Phosphorus, and ZDDP already in them. Diesel and racing oils seem to fair the best, but one has to be careful because there is a lot of "snake-oil" out there. I'm also not a fan of using ZDDP oil additives which tend to use slick marketing campaigns with lots of "scare tactics" to try and justify their inflated price.

Out of all the oils I've used, one of my favorites for use in flat tappet engines is Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil. It's a little expensive, but it's easy to get locally and seems to perform very well. The only real drawback is that it's next to impossible to find in any weight other than 20w50. They do have 10w30, but it's a bit thinner than I'm comfortable with running in a flat tappet engine. My preferred weight is 10w40, so in some cases where I feel that 20w50 is too thick, I've been known to add 3 quarts of 20w50 and 2 quarts of 10w30 to achieve a sort of... compromise. Valvoline VR1 Racing oil is also available in straight weights (SAE 30, SAE 40, SAE 50, and SAE 60) and since my tractor isn't likely to be operated in the winter, I'm equally likely to run SAE 40 (straight weight) oil in it.

Valvoline.com > Products > Motor Oil > Racing Motor Oil > VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)

For those who may be interested, oil weights (viscosity) can be a bit confusing at times so it helps to remember that SAE oils (SAE 40 for example) are straight weight oils, meaning that they are the same viscosity whether they are hot or cold. However, multi-viscosity oils (10w40 for example) are thinner when they are cold and thicker when they are hot. Using 10w40 as an example, the 10w means the oil is 10 weight in the winter (cold) and the 40 means it is 40 weight in the summer (hot) or when the oil reaches operating temperature. Here is a link that further explains oil viscosity.

Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms