My 2025R Thread

jeepcoma · Nov 12, 2023

Aug 31 - Sep 4 : Rocks

I must have had a long weekend because I got a lot done. Prior to this, I had been struggling with getting things into the bucket, even with the Heavy Hitch toothbar. Big rocks tend to roll forward, especially when they don't physically fit in the bucket. And hooks are just handy to have for all sorts of things. I went and added JU Fab Works' The Work Boss to the front frame and 2x Choremaster Plates to the bucket. I already have a variety of chains and hooks and such so this gives me another option to use them!

Those few rocks I'd been scalping that I wanted to dig up back in Aug 28? Turned out to be a bigger job than I expected.

Rocks:

More Rocks:

Even More Rocks:

You can see how I've started to push them towards the edge of the river. The plan is to place them along the bank and it'll look nice. There is an abrupt transition and rocks there will not only look better but hopefully prevent some erosion in the future as well. I had the shanks down at the highest height and I couldn't go a foot without hitting a rock. What I ended up doing was covering all the area with the box blade to identify the rocks, put the BH on to dig them up, repeat until no more rocks.

Not done yet, but lots of progress. Right now I am just getting the rocks out of the way and putting them near where they will ultimately go. Tidying up will wait until spring.

I am thoroughly impressed by what this machine can do. No, it's not big or powerful enough to brute force every problem, but if you think about it like a puzzle, there's nothing I haven't been able to figure out how to get from point A to point B. Between pulling stuff up with the backhoe + thumb, using the bucket and chain to lift rocks (some so big I got it half an inch of the ground - but that was enough!), curling the bucket to roll rocks along that were too big to lift, or using the bucket or box blade as a dozer to simply push stuff around, it gets it done. SURE BEATS A SHOVEL!

Kids love going for rides.

jeepcoma · Nov 26, 2023

A bit out of order, but I briefly wanted to mention a few things I've added to the tractor that I consider "quality of life" improvements. I've mentioned a few of these already but here is a special callout.

1. Heavy Hitch toothbar. I've been happy with the purchase and get a lot of work done with it that can't be done with the edge on the bucket. It really adds a lot of functionality to being able to pick up things that don't quite fit in the bucket. I can lift big rocks, scoop up logs, and smash trees down. It makes the bucket more useful for woody material, since branches are less likely to simply fall off. With the bucket raised and tilted down, I can just see the ends of the tines, which is a big help in navigating the bucket to pick of those big rocks by sliding right under. Plus, it's super easy to take on and off, for the times when I want the straight edge. As you can see in the photo, I've given it a few workouts already. It's super heavy duty, I've had a rock so big I could barely curl the bucket at all held up solely by a single tooth. I roll rocks with it that I can't lift. I spear logs with it, flip stumps, and handle things I couldn't otherwise tackle. I'm pretty sure I'd break the tractor before I broke the tooth bar.

2. JU Fabworks Choremaster Plate

In conjunction with the toothbar, this is a really handy tool. Typically I'll be able to edge the toothbar underneath a big rock, and then throw a chain around it. I've found I don't even have to be able to completely lift something to be able to move it around.

Or pile a big heaping of brush in the bucket, then wrap a rope around it for transport so all the branches don't fall out.

I haven't done anything yet but I'm envisioning setting up some hooks and using the D-rings to store the bucket hanging from them. Could be a nice space saver.

3. JU Fabworks Workboss

I like that this attaches to the frame. I try to be gentle on the hooks on the bucket because I don't want to damage the cylinders or loader. For anything that might get a big aggressive or involve shock loads, I hook it up to the Workboss.

It's also nice to have some hooks on the tractor without the bucket, for future recovery needs. Or any time a chain or trailer hitch will come in handy for moving something.

Bonus - it works as a mini bumper for rocks and logs and such that end up making it past the bucket...

4. Grease and Grease Accessories

I have an assortment of crappy grease tools. After watching some TTWT videos (John Deere 1025R Lubrication (Greasing), Greasing The 1025R/1023E Drive Shaft, Lithium? Calcium? Moly? Expert Explains!), I picked up the LubeShuttle gun, Lock-N-Lube, Li400 grease, and an adapter kit.

Also can confirm, the SafeLock Coupler does not fit well on the JD zerks. Go with the LockNLube Grease Coupler instead.

5. LockNLube Zerk Caps. I got these caps for all the zerks on the tractor and all implements. Helps keep dirt out during operation, and helps ensure I grease all the zerks. My method to grease an implement is to pop all the caps off, counting as I go, to ensure I've located all of them. Then, as I grease each individual zerk, I put the cap back on as an indication that I've hit that zerk. When I think I'm done, I count all the capped zerks again to make sure the number is right. This way, I never miss a zerk, even if I get interrupted during a job.

6. Diff lock pedal from Bolt On Hooks. The stock configuration sucks big time. With the box blade I use the rear diff lock extensively, and the pedal makes engagement a lot easier.

I wish there was an idiot light on the dash to confirm engagement. The dash mostly sucks too... should also have engine oil temp and pressure, hydraulic temp, 4x4 indicator light.

7. JD steering wheel spinner. This was next to the register at the dealer and it was a complete impulse buy. It was actually a bit tricky to figure out the "right" way to mount it, as there were no instructions. I'm not sure I have even done it the correct way. But boy it sure works a treat. It's SO NICE to use, it should be stock. Quick turns when mowing are a piece of cake. When moving materials, right hand on the bucket controls and steering one handed is so natural. Backing up with the box blade, effortless.

This is hands down the best "quality of life" improvement I've made.

8. Hydros Plus sneak peek

I'll write about these in more depth in a future post...

jeepcoma · Dec 22, 2023

OK so I gave a sneak peek at the finished installation, but the "next big thing" I did was install the Hydros Plus Cooler. I had my eye on it early on but frequently thought "JD knows best and has sized the hydraulic cooler appropriately". Well, that may be true to satisfy their warranty period, but it doesn't mean it's ideal (or optimum) for the lifetime of the tractor.

I used my backhoe a lot this summer, and on hot days working in the sun I noticed a reduction in the capabilities of the BH after about an hour of continuous use. I was digging out a lot of rocks, and the hydraulic thumb wouldn't seem to grab as hard, the dipper and boom sticks wouldn't seem to lift as high, smaller rocks felt bigger... and touching any of the hoses or cylinders was... scorching!! From wrenching on cars I'm familiar with the idea of lower transmission temps equating to increased component longevity, and I really can't imagine much different in the tractor scenario. High temps affect the hoses, seals, piston rings, etc. in everything that's powered by the hydraulic fluid, including the hydrostat, FEL, 3-point hitch, and power beyond. Not to mention the Stage 3 Hydros Plus pump I installed and want to last a long long time...

So I watched some videos and ultimately ordered the Cooler+ to improve my hydraulic cooling capacity. I had some expectations based on these videos, but let me say when opening the box, this thing is impressive. Very well constructed. Beautiful welds. Several orders of magnitude more capable than the stock cooler. Really, my only complaint is that Kevin doesn't push this upgrade harder when ordering any of his other products that could benefit from it. Heck I guess my bigger complaint is that JD doesn't have this stock...

On to the install. All went smoothly because I followed the advice of "measure twice, cut once". Actually what I did was follow along with the install video and test fit each component, only to find a thread that wouldn't thread. Uh oh! "Upon closer inspection, these are loafers..." err wait, I mean damaged threads!

I had planned the afternoon to install this cooler so this was a big wrench in the plans. But neither of the two included tubes would thread and... I thought about some repairs I might do to make it work, but I really didn't want to be constantly worried about a future leak. I looked at the unit more thoroughly, and noticed:

The protective cap over the fitting was whacked

And, minor, but there, was something scraped against the side that impacted a few fins.

Nothing really to worry about, but the shipping box was flawless, so all the damage occurred before it was put in the box. I emailed Hydros+ about the issue and Kevin actually gave me a call to make it right. He offered to overnight me a new unit and eat the exorbitant shipping fees, but I was in no hurry and my next window for install was at least a week away so I said the slow boat was fine (remember, I had measured this BEFORE CUTTING any of my lines, so I was in good shape!).

New unit arrived and installed, hardest part was removing the whole JD engine shroud and fairings. Another potential improvement might be to have the ports at the bottom and negate the need to cut the lines. I imagine a lot of owners (myself included, but I got over it) are hesitant to cut the stock lines - changing the shape of the cooler or adapting the entire package to mount to the stock would make the upgrade more appealing to anyone concerned about warranty or returning to stock.

All in, this is a fantastic upgrade. JD should offer this as a factory option for "heavy duty implement use" or some other marketing mumbo-jumbo. The stock cooler is an embarrassment compared to the awesomeness of the Hydros+ Cooler+ upgrade.

beenthere · Dec 22, 2023

More pics to show the new upgrade unit in place? Sounds like a real boost in performance.

jeepcoma · Dec 23, 2023

Anything in particular you'd like to see? Already showed the installed version in post 22 above.

Oh, one thing I didn't write about above is installing the Otis Axle Vent. When I had the front fairing off I ran the vent tube up through a hole into the engine bay. I believe older model years or perhaps different markets have batteries with a vent tube that went down to the undercarriage - that hole is still present and made a perfect route for the axle vent. I'll try to take some pictures of how I routed it.

jeepcoma · Dec 23, 2023

I showed another sneak peak earlier, and here's the post on it. I didn't stop at the Hydros+ pump upgrade, I didn't stop at the Hydros+ cooler, and I went for the Hydros+ Turbo kit. I was more hesitant about this than the other upgrade because it fundamentally changes the tractor and increases the risk of breaking things, namely the engine, which wouldn't be warrantied. The pump adds flow but not power, so I can do things faster but not really risk breaking anything. The cooler doesn't really add performance either, but keeps the hydro fluid and components at a more reasonable temperature (which should improve component longevity if anything). Adding ~50% more HP though changes things considerably.

After using the tractor pretty hard, I did start to wish to improve the non-WOT performance since I'm typically operating the tractor around 2k RPM (thanks to the increased hydraulic flow). I've also been able to stall the tractor a few times digging into rock plies and also when mowing some very thick grass in our paddocks, so while initially I never thought I'd need more HP, well, more is better. Just like the increased flow, it's not strictly needed, but it seemed like it would improve the operation of the machine and improve usability. Besides, diesels and turbos go together like peanut butter and jelly, so it just made sense. And, what the heck, you only live once.

Turbo time!

I'm not going to bother showing any install pics or usage (at this point) as Kevin at Hydros+ as well as Tractor Time with Tim have many great videos that show the install, dyno testing, and performance of this kit. Better than I can do anyway. What I will do is show a couple issues I've had with my turbo.

First thing I noticed upon unpacking was a bit of surface rust on the mating surface.

No big deal, a paper towel and some WD-40 cleaned it right up, and the surface was smooth enough that I didn't need to do anything else.

There was a small deformity at one of the ears on the turbo. I'm not sure if it was a manufacturing defect or physical damage, I couldn't really determine. But a minute with a file smoothed this out nice and flat. It's hard to see in the pics but it's maybe 1/16-1/8" of a protrusion.

So with those couple problems resolved, the install was very easy. Of the three Hydros+ upgrades, the turbo was actually the easiest, as some assembly could be done on the bench, and there wasn't much on the tractor that had to be removed to get access.

With about 40 hours on the engine I broke it in hard by mowing for about three hours. First issue I had was my own fault for not torquing down the oil return line enough. About 10 minutes into mowing I noticed some oil on the right front axle, so I shut it down right away and opened the hood. No damage done, I didn't even lose enough to notice on the dipstick, but boy what a mess. You see, the oil leaked right in front of the fan, which sucked it right in and sprayed it all over the engine bay. I mean... ALL OVER. I've never actually seen **** hit a fan but I imagine this was pretty close to it.

With the worst of it mopped up, it was back to mowing. I was nearly done when I noticed the next problem, and again shut the tractor off straight away. I was mostly afraid of a fire!

What happened was that vibration caused the welded mount on that exhaust pipe to fatigue and break. I had tightened the clamp to a reasonable amount and couldn't rotate the pipe by hand, but with enough heat and vibration and time it was enough for the pipe to twist itself around and hit the fairing. The real bummer is that it walked itself towards the engine first before the fairing and burned itself into the battery cable.

You can see in the above picture both the fatigued mount as well as the burned cable. I believe I got an early version of the exhaust tube as the replacement that Kevin sent was better designed. The failed pipe had the bracket basically stuck on the pipe and then spot welded at a 90* angle. The replacement pipe has the bracket extend across the pipe and has a much larger welded area.

Kevin offered to make it right and I haven't taken him up on that yet. I think I am going to replace the battery cable, since that's a functional issue and shouldn't have happened. But I kinda like the exhaust cutout in the fairing... Battle damage. I peeled off the melted bits and the remaining material has a nice smooth cutout on it. I'm thinking it'll look neat with some chrome trim.

One thing for sure is that it should put to rest any concern about how the plastic handles the heat. It can take it! I don't know what the heck this stuff is made from but it's incredibly durable. Only the plastic physically touching the exhaust pipe had any deformity. And this pipe was probably at its hottest after working hard mowing high grass for several hours. It didn't smoke at all, let alone looked burned. It just melted a bit like wax where it was touching. Very impressive stuff.

Oh and the turbo? Yeah it's awesome! Huge improvement with more power mowing, both for the PTO as well as the hydrostat. More power for hydraulics at lower RPM. I've got about 20 hours on it now and very pleased. I've got an itch for the autothrottle system, I think it would complement the turbo nicely and really speed up work when using the FEL and box blade.

jeepcoma · Dec 30, 2023

They're here! I ordered these 5/24/23 and they arrived 12/26/23.

I'd planned to do this as a late winter/early spring install but I might do it in January. It's been so unseasonably mild here in NH that there is no snow on the ground and I'm still using the tractor. I still need to do some research but I'm eyeing the Summit Hydraulics Rear Hydraulic Valve Kit with Front Third Function kit. This would give me three spools in the rear (one spare while using the top and tilt kit) and the mid function. I have a couple things on the wish list that would make use of the mid function...

The Artillian grapple looks awesome as I am reclaiming woods and it would save a lot of time compared to hopping off the tractor and trying to stuff branches into the bucket. But I might start with the pallet fork and see how that goes.

The other desire is for the MCS, so I can dump them in my compost pile instead of clumps all over the place. It sure is pricey but I also really hate mowing and leaves. And now I have 6 acres to do. Still have some research to do, I think there are some differences between the TKV20 and the JD branded LP65048 unit. Anyway, it seems like I shouldn't need the hydraulic mower lift, but with my experience dragging the box blade on hills it might be an expensive mistake to smash an MCS on something. And having the third function would give me the option if I need it.

jeepcoma · Dec 30, 2023

I inquired about the TKV20 back on 10/10/23 and for future reference here was what I was quoted:

Your tractor will work for the TKV20. Below is detailed list of prices.
TK95086- $4,999.99 (TKV20 UNIT)
UNIVERSAL- $149.00 (BOOT KIT) * THIS IS A REQUIRED PART
TK95060- $179.00 (WIRING KIT) *THIS IS A REQUIRED PART
OPTIONAL ITEMS:
TK95055- $49.50 (WHEEL KIT)
TK95029- $39.99 (QUICK HITCH BUSHING KIT)
TK95073- $199.99 (F2 FILL SENSOR)
*freight is covered for delivery of unit in the contiguous U.S. excludes Alaska, Hawaii, and Canada
If you can’t provide a forklift for off load an additional charge of $154.00 will be added to provide a lift gate.

jeepcoma · Mar 25, 2024

Upgrades!! March 25, 2024.

After a long winter without much tractoring action, spring is in the air and I have a few upgrades to put in during mud season. First, nothing very exciting, but cheap insurance:

I don't have any plans to use the tractor during winter so this should help keep the battery in good shape while it hibernates. With the added difficulty of replacing the battery with the HydrosPlus Cooler installed, adding a permanent battery charger to the engine bay seems like a no-brainer. Will start scoping out mounting options and see where this can fit nicely.

OK, now the good stuff:

I ended up getting Summit Hydraulic's Electric Rear Hydraulic Valve Kit for John Deere 2025R. For anyone considering the kit, here are some of my decisions:

As of now, I only need two functions for Top and Tilt, but I decided to purchase the 4-spool unit.
1. The cost differential of the 2-spool unit ($850) compared to the 3- ($1,000) and 4-spool ($1,150) variants was not that great. Considering I don't know everything that I'll be asking the tractor to do in the future, it's cheap insurance. And I have a hunch I'll use them at some point. The potential headache and cost of later having to upgrade from a 2-spool unit was worth the extra cost.
2. I have the option of converting one of the rear spools to the front 3rd function. I don't know for sure that I'll ever need that, and even if I do, there's an easy upgrade path for it. So I can add one when I need to without "penalty". And should I do that, I still have 3 spools for the rear.
I went with the 4-switch box instead of the joystick. While I do like the idea of having my thumb be able to adjust the top link "on the fly", there were more drawbacks.
1. There was a complaint that the joystick with switches is tall enough to mess up the ergonomics. The armrest is at the proper height for the height of the stock ball and the replacement is too tall. Sorry I can't remember where I heard this, might have been a TTWT video.
2. My model year 2023 tractor has the newer console with the switch plugs. There are four knockouts. I have four switches... I'd much prefer to use the factory location instead of mounting the switches using the included brackets. See Tim's New Console video as that was my main inspiration. Before placing the order I sat in the seat and played with the ergonomics of reaching the switch box. Seems OK to me, and the reality is I'm probably going to be turned around to look at the implement as I adjust it anyway so the joystick option isn't really going to save me anything.
3. The joystick switch seems best suited to front 3rd function use, not the rear. So if I end up getting a 3rd function, I can easily add a joystick switch later on and again, I'm not paying much of a penalty to do so. Better alternatives might exist as well.
4. If I do the joystick, I still have to do the switchbox for the other 3 switches anyway. Extra work for no good reason.

Location wise I'm leaning towards putting it on the right side of the tractor, as per this guide.

I know Tim helped spec out the kit with the intention of installing on the right side of a 1025R, but the 2025R is already left-centric for entry/exit and I think I'll keep it that way. The only step up to the seat is on the left, and the only way to get on and off the backhoe is on the left. I think mounting the cylinders on the right makes the most sense for me. I'll have to do a test mount and visually see how much of an obstruction it is to looking over my right shoulder, and how much room there is to squeeze by it to get on the backhoe.

First impressions are that everything is very high quality. When I got the shipping info I noticed the weight was listed at 50 lbs and I thought there was no way that could be right. Carrying the box from the garage into the house showed me I was wrong! This thing is beefy! Everything looks nicely made and put together and I think with the switches installed in the console it'll look pretty factory.

Excited to get out there and turn some wrenches and be able to put that FitRite Top and Tilt kit to use this summer.

For future reference, the Summit kit cost me $1,092.45 shipped, which included the TTWT discount. Ordered 3/19/24.

jeepcoma · Mar 26, 2024

Got the manifold and all fittings put together finger tight last night - pretty straightforward. Getting those switches out, now THAT was a pain.

First, inspection. Here's the grommit the wiring harness passes through (from the inside):

Without the flash, there's a lot of daylight visible through that hole with nothing sealing it:

Problem? I don't really know. But the unit is advertised as weather sealed, and it's clearly not. This opening on the backside is the only opening in the box, so whatever moisture does get in is having a hard time getting out. That might be the longer term concern. But not for me!

Switch #1 was always going to be the hardest. In the video TTWT showed, the switchbox had removable sides. Mine has a removable back. Meaning, getting access to the rear retaining tabs from the front was a challenge. I took pictures of the wiring and removed the spade connectors to get a bit more access.

I got the front up about half way, and then used an Allen key as a lever on the rear side to depress the locking tabs, while applying a slight pull to the switch body.

The tabs have several steps so I tried to go in stages, one notch at the front, then one notch at the back, repeat.

It did not work very well, but my stubbornness prevailed. Huzzah! I put the wires back on so there'd be one less thing to forget later.

With one out, I knew I could get the others. I had more success trying to cram my finger around behind the rear first to get the backside out one notch before starting on the front, and working one finger around on the back while simultaneously working the front. Some more appropriate tool would have made this easy, but my determination won out. A better tool would have been a sturdier L shaped tool, or a clamp that could reach around the backside to apply pressure to the rear locking ears. The best tool would have been communication with Summit to ask them to send the harness and switches without the box in the first place...

I still need to get the backplate off, but attached all the wiring back on the switches for now. At the least will have to cut those two zip ties, and possibly that ground wire that's crimped. I'd have liked to have seen heat shrink tubing on all of these crimped ends given the confines of that "weatherproof" box. If you are using one of these in harsh conditions you might want to pop the back (or sides) off your unit and check for moisture and corrosion in there. The middle terminal in series is a bigger failure point too. Hmm, now contemplating replacing all these terminals and soldering and shrink-wrapping everything...

jeepcoma · Mar 30, 2024

Fit the Summit Hydraulics manifold to the ROPS. I installed the each of the male dust plugs with the corresponding female half, with the idea being that when I pull them out to put a line in, I'll have fit the male and female covers together and keep them clean. It's way too busy back there though, so I'll probably remove all the female ends and keep them stashed in the toolbox or somewhere else on the tractor.

Backhoe clearance is a bit tight, but it should work fine. Seat goes up and down no problem, and operating the controls doesn't seem like a problem. It does restrict my left elbow movement a bit, but in practice I don't think this will matter - the only thing even remotely impacted might be swinging the boom to the left. Time will tell when I actually get to try it. I'm mostly concerned about damaging the wiring, since that's the only delicate bit that will be exposed and potentially my leg might rub up against it. Once I get the wiring set up, will see how and were I can tie it down to ensure I can't snag anything.

I put the trickle charger in too, have a couple ideas for permanent mounting that will look nice and let the plug be accessible without having to pop the hood. But where I parked the tractor was just a bit too short for the extension cord I had handy so I had to pull it out and dangle it over the hood. Pics later, but it'll be nice peace of mind.

Happy Easter!

beenthere · Mar 31, 2024

Quite the fabricator, you are. Thanks for taking us along on your adventure.

jeepcoma · Apr 14, 2024

Apr 14, 2024 - Rear Remote Progress

Spent some time getting the rest of the Summit rear remotes and Fit Rite top-and-tilt kit together. Most of the time by far was spent routing, test fitting, rerouting, repeat.

First I pulled out the right rear fender and handle so I could get access to the console and put the switches in. I was thinking I would tap into the cigarette lighter/power adapter that's already in place. It's hot with the key off, which doesn't seem like a problem compared to a switched 12v source. Anyway, I was surprised to find a tap already tucked in underneath.

Here is the male end that's part of the harness:

Here's the female part that was attached. Anyone know what's needed to get the pins in there to attach?

I would really like to avoid cutting or splicing any wires here as it's already set up to go. It's already running through a 15A fuse as well (guess how I know...). Would be nice if Summit Hydraulics had this option (and left or right mounting location) as part of the kit.

Here I've got the switches mocked up but not pushed in fully. I took extra care to label all the switches and wires and then compare to the spools on the manifold, but I wanted to make it easy to move things around if I had reversed a wire. Once it's all in, it's going to look nice!

I played around with the excess harness for a bit. I think I've got the solution, with just a little more tweaking. Note quite there yet. There's quite a bit of space in there, I did one loop around the cup holder with the grey bundle and will stuff the remainder under the void space below the switches.

One thing is for sure, JD went with form over function in a lot of places and this rear fender is no exception. Everything is a lot tighter and more difficult than it needs to be.

Next I started mocking up the top and tilt. These cylinders are massive.

I'll take some more measurements if anyone is interested. TTWT did a review of the Summit Hydraulics top-and-tilt kit, but not the Fit Rite. The main reason was that the FR units aren't readily available, with a ~6 month lead time. That matches my own experience! But the FR kit seems to be on another level compared to the Summit cylinders, so I'd like to show some comparisons to provide some more information.

OK here's the routing I ended up with that seemed... OK. I have the 3 point attached to a (just acquired!) iMatch. I don't see any way to set things up without having the 3 point connected to something, and this seemed the best way to do it.

The Power-Beyond-to-Summit-Manifold is a bit how-ya-doin, but I don't have many options with what was included. I mounted on the right side so there is a lot more hose compared to a left sided install. I might replace them with shorter hoses.

I used the straight fittings on the top link, and they routed nicely away from the rear.

I put the 90* angles on the side link. That seemed to work pretty well.

I had some options for how to connect to the rear remotes. I ended up using the 90* staggered connectors for the toplink to route to the top spool:

And the two 90* elbows for the side link pointing down:

Fired it up and... leaks like crazy!!! What a mess, but not unexpected. Keeping all the fittings loose to play around with routing left a couple fittings less-than-tight. Bit of work with the wrenches and that was all resolved. For testing I just stripped some of the wiring and jammed the wiring from the rear manifold into that factory connector (I tested a lot before even starting the top-and-tilt). First time I hit the switch and... it worked!! I had the 3-point position at the lowest spot and slowly went through the full range of top and tilt, looking for clearance issues. All seemed, good, so I started moving the 3-point up.

Ooo nooo!! Pulverized! Between the top tilt and the 3-point lifting, I managed to squash the inner hose for the top link. I was trying to go slow and deliberately, but where I was standing, and the number of things I was trying to look at simultaneously, I simply didn't see it. Expensive mistake. Hydraulic fluid everywhere.

Maybe I'll move the 90* fittings from the side-link to the top. Not really sure. I was a lot nice mocking up before there was fluid in the lines, since now everything is messy. Ah well, almost there!

jeepcoma · Apr 24, 2024

April 23, 2024 - Forks

Took a drive today...

Picked up the Artillian 3000 lb frame, 36" forks, and the backrest. My original idea was to get the lightest weight components possible to maximize the limited lift capacity of these smaller tractors, which would have been the 2300 lb frame and 36" forks. Watching TTWT's Pallet Forks. 7 Reasons Why I like 'Em Short! was enough to convince me of "smaller is better". Emailing and talking on the phone with Dave from Artillian changed my mind to get the stronger frame, but keep the shorter forks for the reasons TTWT pointed out. The backrest is removable if I need to, so for landscaping rocks or whatever else I need for maximum lift it's an easy change.

I also looked at the Everything Attachments Ultra Light EA Pallet Forks with 100% Hardox Frame & Tines. These were about 50 lbs lighter (assuming same tine length and backrest) and 50% less expensive... but I was on the border of their "free shipping" zone, there was no way for me to figure out where the shipping terminal was that I would pick up and, no idea on shipping times, and most importantly no one answered the phone when I called. Plus, based on my usage, I was concerned the unit might not be sturdy enough, so decided to go with the Artillian setup.

Loaded up:

Took some pics while I was there. Wasn't sure if it was allowed, but nothing was posted and no one told me not to, so I went ahead and did it.

Not sure exactly what was being tested, but when I arrived this unit was repeatedly being run over metal rumble strips at high speed.

Inside the warehouse. Very clean and nicely organized.

"My eyes! The goggles do nothing"!

Leaving the terminal, there was some more testing going on, this time a tractor going over a single rumble strip over and over. Not sure what he was testing either.

First job was moving some shelves that were delivered to the garage and bring them over to the basement where they will be put in. Used the pallet the forks came on for the job!

Next was moving patio furniture. Typically I carry these one at a time from their winter storage location back up to the deck. Walking 1/8 mile each way to move 10 pieces takes a while. This was faster.

Not pictured but after this I picked up many downed pine branches from our last snow storm that rolled through. It was very effective not only at picking up the branches, but dumping them into the brush pile and heaping it up where I wanted - much more so than what I could do with the bucket. The tines let me position, flip off, push away, and squash down with more precision than dumping with the bucket.

I did agonize on the 36" forks vs the 42" for a while, like most people. I have to say, I had no problems seeing the ends of the tines and pointing them where I needed them to go. Perhaps a significant difference between the 2025R and the 1025R? Not really sure, but so far have no regret going with the shorter forks.

bigtiller · Apr 24, 2024

I like the Artillian forks.
I bought mine with 42" forks for my 2720. At that time they offered a pair of 24" forks. I wouldn't mind having a pair of 24's now but the last I checked, they didn't offer them.

jeepcoma · Apr 26, 2024

Must be my lucky day! Everything I had ordered to wrap up my rear remote install showed up today, just need to run to the store and get some more 90* hydraulic fittings and I should be able to get this all in done over the weekend.

Hose wrap and protectors from Outback Wrap.

Here's the Tyco 1-1703498-1-PT female terminal with pigtail I found on DeyTrade. Would have been nice for JD to use this instead of the dummy plug, but oh well. I'm happy I won't need to modify the wiring harness in any way.

Chain boxes to add to the iMatch from Bolt On Hooks. I didn't need to move the hook to attach to the BB2048 box blade, though I've read many people have had issues. Mine went straight in, no problem. But anyway, I threw in the quick pins for good measure.

jeepcoma · Apr 28, 2024

Added the pigtail to my wiring harness and that was the easy part. I spent way too much time trying to get all the wires to fit underneath the console. JD could have made this very very easy, but it was an annoying struggle. Form over function unfortunately! Oh well, I'm only going to have to take it apart one or two more times in my life most likely, so it's not that bad...

The power wire I zip tied up and fit underneath the switches in the void space. I could not for the life of me get the grey cable that goes to the spools fit in there as well. I noticed there was a hole in the fender with a rubber plug on it... not sure what it's for. But there is plenty of room there to stuff a cable. I wrapped the parts that might rub in Outback Wrap and stuffed it in there. The cable is out of the way, it's protected, and it's not in the way of the 3-point hitch lever. I might add some more zip ties but this is probably its permanent home. I'll trim the rubber plug to be able to accommodate the wiring so I can seal it back up.

Still not thrilled with the hose routing. Everything fits, I'm not getting any binding or anything throughout the full range of 3-pt travel as well as top and tilt, but I just don't like it. I want every hose to point towards the center of the tractor instead of every which way. I also like the idea of getting one of the power beyond hoses out of the way underneath the seat. I will get some 90* adapters and play with it some more. The Outback Wrap Hose Boss does a nice job keeping the hoses near each other, but still free to move within.

The $10 "box of snakes" was the best thing in that box. I'd have been better off skipping the "kit" and buying a few of the big boxes of snakes, there's a size for everything!

While testing the hose routing, I couldn't help but being impressed at the amount of clearance I am getting now between the two adjustable sidelinks (I swapped the adjustable side link to the left when I added the hydraulic link on the right), the hydraulic toplink, and the iMatch.

Here's the exact same spot where I was scraping last year. Granted I didn't get off the tractor and shorten the top link as I could have, but that's kind of the point. The hydraulics really take the utility to the next level.

Time to get some work done. Forklift sure is handy. Again I didn't take pictures (too busy trying to beat the rain to stop) but I moved about another dozen fallen pine branches. Some were so big I'd have to saw them in half or thirds and then drag them to the brush plie. Forks sure beat a lot of dragging. Not as good as a grapple though...

One neat trick with the forks and the HydrosPlus upgraded flow that I found, was that I could use it to toss logs further over my fence line. I'd angle the forks down, let the logs start to slide down, and as they got near the end of the forks, raise and angle up to "flick" the log and it would go further. Fun! This was actually useful too, some of the branches were oddly shaped and I couldn't otherwise get them far away from the fence enough to not have it drop on the line.

Moved some wood around too. After this I used the box blade in the paddock to break up the spots where there is a lot of poo, and move it to the low spots. The top-and-tilt is AMAZING. It's a completely different machine. It's nice to be able to upgrade these small tractors to be just as useful as something larger.

Chain boxes are nice additions. I had two of these either floating around on the floorboards, or wrapped around the tines of the box blade. Didn't like either solution very much, and they fit perfectly in the box. Thought I'd get to use the grabbers when I was in the paddock, would have been nice to have the manure rake a couple times, but it was too small. Maybe I'll put some different size tool mounts on the the fronts and backs.

Forks are useful for breaking down low hanging branches that would get caught up in the ROPS. I should have gotten off to take a look but I'm pretty sure the ends of the forks are higher than the ROPS here. Would be a non-destructive way to test "does it fit" as well.

Two things that completely faded from my mind:

1. Longer forks. I have no trouble seeing the ends and scooping under branches and logs and such. Yes I have to move my head a bit and find the right place to look through, but I can see the ends. 2025R vs 1025R ergonomic difference perhaps?
2. Looking behind me while either reversing or box blading and the rear removes didn't block my view at all. I was a bit concerned because I almost always turn to my right when I want to look behind, but I wanted the left side free for access to the backhoe. I had to remind myself to intentionally look for them at one point to see what they obstructed. They are just not in the way at all, which is really nice. Again, maybe a 2025R vs 1025R difference in seating position? Would be neat to do a side-by-side, if anyone is local-ish!

jeepcoma · May 21, 2024

Moved a bunch of horse poo. Like, two dozen bucket-fulls. Smoothed out with the box blade. Then washed it. Need to get ready for mowing. Bent the damn front draft link again. Slow learner

. Mentioned the problem to the dealer and said I've read online that it might be hitting the front loader stand. He said "oh yeah you should take the loader off when removing the deck, it's so easy of course you should do it." Not happy with that.

1. I bought the damn thing with the load-and-go. Of COURSE I am going to have the loader on when working with the mower. Also, would have been helpful to mention that issue... the FIRST TIME I broke it??
2. I paid for mower setup. They didn't do a thing. The front draft adjustment was super tight, the first time I went to remove the deck I had to use a prybar to be able to disengage the locking pins. Only TTWT's videos have shown me how nice things are supposed to be. I will spend some time trying to figure out how to stop the draft link from going too high - it only needs to go high enough to get picked up by the front bracket, and low enough to sneak under the loader stand.

Deere should be all over dealers for this crap. It's not good for their reputation. I've read many threads now on different sites from people doing exactly the same thing I have. Now I know either remove the loader, or shove a 2x4 between the upper draft link and the loader stand so that it can't snag. Seems like someone could make a product to mount permanently to prevent breaking this, I'll even give you the name - the "Draft Dodger". Just send me one and I'll beta test for you.

jeepcoma · May 28, 2024

May 28, 2024 - MCS!!

I put an order in a while ago and today finally everything came together. I ordered the MC2120 (Part number 0731XF Material Collection System) and a while back. The unit arrived, and it had the boot kit for the 54" deck, so I had to wait for the correct 60" boot. Price for the MCS, caster wheel storage, wireless fill sensor, delivered to my house was $5,295. This actually ended up being cheaper than what I was quoted direct from TerraKing last year.

Well, nothing goes my way it seems, so of course there was a problem. I walked into the house to get the check book while he did the unloading, and heard a big boom. First thought was... "glad that wasn't me".

Yep, he dropped it. Actually, it looked like the pallet failed, there were nails pulled right through. He said he had never moved one before and he grabbed it from the wrong side, so the weight was towards the front of the forks instead of resting against the backrest. I can see how when he went to start lowering and leveling the forks that it was so front heavy it just pulled itself right off the cheap pallet.

After discussion options, we decided he'd take it back to the dealer (closed at this point of the day) and the sales guy will give me a call tomorrow. I did not pay or sign any papers. Not sure what I should do. There was some minor damage from the drop, a clip broke and the plastic boot, some dents and scratches. I suppose I can have them fix it and go over everything. I could ask for a new unit but that will likely take months. Maybe ask for a rebate? Have them install it and ask for extended warranty? It seems like a pretty robust unit, so I'm not opposed to fixing whatever might have broken - I plan to use it hard anyway so the shine will come off after the first use. Anyway, will see what the dealer says tomorrow.

Talked about how to get it back on the trailer and he ended up doing a direct lift.

Ah well. No one was hurt.