My Bridge

[pat32rf]

We have a closed cell foam that we use whenever we put wood on concrete such as the rim joist or where we are building stud walls in a basement. Comes in 4 or 6" wide rolls.....

 

[KennyG]

Hit the first design change on the project this weekend. Because I was going to build up the approach ramps, I was not going to add railings off the end of the bridge. After looking at it, my wife and I decided it would look more finished with approach railings. So I set some posts and added the railings and the retaining walls for the ramps. This change just cost a days work and $100 so, as my projects go, it's still a success. When I get ballusters on the new railings and the backfill done, I should have a usable bridge.

 

[LD1]

I actually side with your wife, it looks better with the approach railings.

 

[wmonroe]

The approach railings look great!

 

[amigauser]

Excellent job!

 

[damartin]

Very nice work, looks good and solid also.

 

[radioman]

Are you using yellow wood?

Did you put anything between the wood and the concrete?

I have something similar planned for my spillway, and I'm unsure if I want to put a piece of rubber or tar paper under the boards where they touch the concrete or not.

Eddie

They have those 6 inch or so rubber membranes in roofing dept you can use. I'd be using that for the wood to concrete contact. It doesnt matter if it pressure treated or not, I'd would seperate the two with paper,tar,rubber, whatever.

 

[KennyG]

If someone is looking for a different design and has some really good steel cable, check out this bridge:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=372967746087504

 

[bcp]

If someone is looking for a different design and has some really good steel cable, check out this bridge:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=372967746087504

Google translate says the title is Turkish, so probably somewhere in Turkey.

Bruce

 

[PILOON]

One thing I always do when building decks and docks is to use membrane strips under the decking planks.
I cut them about 1/2" wider than the beams so that water that gets between the decking boards sheds away from the joists.
This way the joists can outlast a few deck changes as they will never get wet. I also like to have a slight gap between planks mainly to allow crap to be flushed out. (trapped vegetation in the butted planks is an invitation for rot to occur)