My Bridge

   / My Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Nice Kenny! I can't wait to see the finished project. Have you mentioned which way water flows over the spillway? It looks like it flows in from the side opposite of the retainer wall blocks.

That's correct. the dam is concrete and about 6 inches lower than the spillway walls. It generally flows 11 or 11-1/2 months of the year, but we've been really dry for the last month.
 
   / My Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#22  
This weekends update. I put on the railings. Next will be some retaining walls and backfill for the approach ramps and this project will be wrapped up.

A little slowed this weekend by football. On Saturday, Illinois, Michigan and Michigan State all won. Today, the Bears won. Those are the only teams I care about so this weekend was perfect.

br20.jpg br21.jpg
 
   / My Bridge #23  
Your bridge looks great and should last a long time! I've got the same project to tackle in a few years but my span will require steel beams but your project helps the planning stage. Thanks for sharing.
 
   / My Bridge #24  
Looks great!!!!

I'm curious to see how you deal with the dirt off to the sides when you build it up. I've thought of using rocks or sacks of concrete, but haven't decided on anything yet.

Eddie
 
   / My Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Looks great!!!!

I'm curious to see how you deal with the dirt off to the sides when you build it up. I've thought of using rocks or sacks of concrete, but haven't decided on anything yet.

Eddie
I'm going to build more retaining walls. I still have lots of used blocks.
 
   / My Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#27  
That looks great! Way nicer then mine's gonna be. LOL

Put it where your wife can see it from the kitchen window and it will get a lot nicer in a hurry. I can guarantee that from experience.
 
   / My Bridge #28  
LOL, I suppose that's true. Mine's 800' in the woods from the kitchen window so no worries there.

Again, nice job. You're like me in that you don't like wood touching dirt.
 
   / My Bridge #29  
Wow! That does look great....and for a moment there, I thought you may make an old timey covered bridge. The Mrs' would love it and it certainly wouldn't hurt the lifetime of the bridge *(that is IF you went through the trouble of keeping it roofed properly over the years). Looks great!!! Now, build you a nice cabin and have someone video the process I see a grand future in you providing YouTube "how to's". Great job! amazing to see how it has developed (especially while I was out of town).
 
   / My Bridge #31  
We have a closed cell foam that we use whenever we put wood on concrete such as the rim joist or where we are building stud walls in a basement. Comes in 4 or 6" wide rolls.....
 
   / My Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Hit the first design change on the project this weekend. Because I was going to build up the approach ramps, I was not going to add railings off the end of the bridge. After looking at it, my wife and I decided it would look more finished with approach railings. So I set some posts and added the railings and the retaining walls for the ramps. This change just cost a days work and $100 so, as my projects go, it's still a success. When I get ballusters on the new railings and the backfill done, I should have a usable bridge.

br40.jpg br41.jpg
 
   / My Bridge #33  
I actually side with your wife, it looks better with the approach railings.
 
   / My Bridge #37  
Are you using yellow wood?

Did you put anything between the wood and the concrete?

I have something similar planned for my spillway, and I'm unsure if I want to put a piece of rubber or tar paper under the boards where they touch the concrete or not.

Eddie

They have those 6 inch or so rubber membranes in roofing dept you can use. I'd be using that for the wood to concrete contact. It doesnt matter if it pressure treated or not, I'd would seperate the two with paper,tar,rubber, whatever.
 
   / My Bridge #40  
One thing I always do when building decks and docks is to use membrane strips under the decking planks.
I cut them about 1/2" wider than the beams so that water that gets between the decking boards sheds away from the joists.
This way the joists can outlast a few deck changes as they will never get wet. I also like to have a slight gap between planks mainly to allow crap to be flushed out. (trapped vegetation in the butted planks is an invitation for rot to occur)
 

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