My CCM top link broke!!!!

[actionaj]

I just finished a job of pulling fence post and was driving back to the garage. When pow, the eye on my CCM hydraulic top link broke. Dropping the box blade in the ground. I had not been using the blade at all today just had it on for weight. The thing just snapped without warning.
Does anybody know if CCM is still in business can't find there web. sight. Also I can't find the bill for the phone number. I don't know if it would be warranted or not or if they could repair it. The metal is clean fresh break doesn't look as if it had a crack in it.

 

[KennyV]

Go to TSC or one of the similar places and get a new end... Take it to a welding shop... or weld it yourself... Shipping that cylinder around will likely cost you More than the repair...

No a big problem welding it back... But do extend the rod and keep the cylinder end of the rod quenched to prevent heat damage to the seals... You can set the cylinder in a pail of water while you weld the end sticking up out of the water... KennyV

 

[Ductape]

What Ken said.

Have it repaired. I believe CCM has been, or is being dissolved........ so I'm afraid you may not get much satisfaction that way. It stinks..... but having that one repaired by putting a new end on it is likely your best bet.

 

[Scooby074]

I think CCM is out of business. But one of the guys started up a new company. Dont know the name, but it was mentioned here on TBN

The broken part can be bought at any Tractor or hydraulic place. Cut the old mount off the rod and weld on the new one to repair.

Good luck.

 

[PHILIP8N]

That will make me think twice about crawling under my RFM to change my blades while being supported by my CCM top link! I have been impressed by the CCM top link to support my 1200 pound ballest box while while it is moving back and forth doing uneven FEL work. Philip.

 

[Inspector507]

CCM may have closed but one of them started this website Hay Tools

 

[HayDR]

I see a gouge in the cylinder push rod. These rods are chromed and hardened. It is hard to gouge the steel in these rods. THis can happen when you lift up your box blade so high that the hitch on the box blade is contacting the cylinder and puts the top link in a bind. A manual one will bend the end but this pushrod takes more force that the end could stand so the end broke. A new end can easily be put on this hydraulic top link and you are back in business. Just make sure you watch how high you lift your implements or this can happen again.

 

[jinman]

That will make me think twice about crawling under my RFM to change my blades while being supported by my CCM top link! I have been impressed by the CCM top link to support my 1200 pound ballest box while while it is moving back and forth doing uneven FEL work. Philip.

Philip, I would sincerely hope that you would put something under your mower to support it before crawling under there whether you had the OEM toplink or an HTL from any other source. I personally don't trust any hydraulics on a tractor enough to crawl under an implement. To do so is just courting disaster in my opinion. Stay safe and put some blocks under the edges of that mower before scooting under there.

 

[DT86]

I just called them last week.... 423-282-6969

 

[actionaj]

I see a gouge in the cylinder push rod.

That is not a gouge on cylinder rod it is a scratch in the paint. As for binding when lifted all the way to the top I don't thinks so, I watch for things like that. I might have had it in a bind on rare occasions but never continuous. I think that the rod end is a little on the light side and it just broke. I have bought a much heavier fordged rod end to replace it with. Just haven,t had time to weld it back on. Will be posting pics. when I do.

 

[don white]

I agree you should never get under anything supported by just hydraulics. Take one apart it is just a rubber seal. Support it with something anything. I have rigged a lot of heavy stuff and made some mistakes. Heavy weight is very unforgiving.

 

[Gordon Gould]

That is not a gouge on cylinder rod it is a scratch in the paint. As for binding when lifted all the way to the top I don't thinks so, I watch for things like that. I might have had it in a bind on rare occasions but never continuous. I think that the rod end is a little on the light side and it just broke. I have bought a much heavier fordged rod end to replace it with. Just haven,t had time to weld it back on. Will be posting pics. when I do.

This was also my initial opinion. The end on my Fit Rite Hydraulics top link is much heavier. But my tractor is a little bigger so I didn't say anything. Mine is a 10" stroke cylinder for cat 1

 

[HayDR]

This was also my initial opinion. The end on my Fit Rite Hydraulics top link is much heavier. But my tractor is a little bigger so I didn't say anything. Mine is a 10" stroke cylinder for cat 1

This gray cylinder is for a BX kubota 14-18" and that is not a standard CAT1 hitch on that BX Kubota tractor. To have space for both the double piloted check valve & a 14" closed length you have to use the lighter forged ends. Our standard ends are pictured here.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

This gray cylinder is for a BX kubota 14-18" and that is not a standard CAT1 hitch on that BX Kubota tractor. To have space for both the double piloted check valve & a 14" closed length you have to use the lighter forged ends. Our standard ends are pictured here.

I have a BX25. What part # works on that model, the top link is the shortest in the industry. I could only find one with a cross bar adjyster from Surplus Center. Do you make tilt cylinders also, again they are very short coupled on the BX25. How about a valving arrangement for the PB system. I would also like to add one way lock detent vale to tyhe spool to use other implements like a log splitter W/O haveing a PB valve on the implement.

Ron

 

[jcottons]

ccm has not closed!... they are still open and doing business..I recently purchased a tnt ...same service and same company just new people in parts.

 

[CarterandCarter]

That is not a gouge on cylinder rod it is a scratch in the paint. As for binding when lifted all the way to the top I don't thinks so, I watch for things like that. I might have had it in a bind on rare occasions but never continuous. I think that the rod end is a little on the light side and it just broke. I have bought a much heavier fordged rod end to replace it with. Just haven,t had time to weld it back on. Will be posting pics. when I do.

actionaj,

when did you buy this cylinder?..I will Look and see if warranty still covers it, if it does you could just send it back and I can reweld it for you

 

[jakell2010]

What size tractor are you using actionable?,,,,,I got mine from Agrisupply $189,,,,, much heavier

BTW that's metal fatigue