My experience with the 50 hour service.

[Avenger]

If we think about it, paint contributes very little if anything at all on how stuck a filter gets. Unless they would apply the paint on the filter seal, then it would really change things out.

Assembling the filter on the factory with a dry seal along with overtightening is what really gets the filters stuck.

None of the filters on my tractor were painted, yet the mechanic still had to struggle quite a bit to take the engine oil filter out during the 50 hour service. I have yet to change the hydraulic filter, however, I can already tell it will be quite a pain to take off, just by looking on how much squished the rubber seal is.

Completely agree. The paint probably does not help, but is not the reason why the filters are so stuck. Two rules for installing a new filter: 1) always lube the seal, 2) never use a wrench to tighten the filters, hand tight only.

I cannot imagine the factory has someone doing that manually. Most likely it is a worker that uses a torque wrench and no lubricant on the seal. And I'm sure they do it as a CYA step. If that worker doesnt get the filter tight enough using their hands, and the filter leaks, thats an issue. Better to use a computer controlled air torque wrench and make sure its on. Let the owners/mechanics worry about getting it off.

 

[CoThG]

Thanks for posting. For my warrentee I let the dealer do my 50. I last week got all LS filters, oil & fluid and keep the paper work in a folder for the next change I think is 250 hours.

He doesn't have to do the service. All you have to do is have proof (receipts) that you purchased the required supplies and document the required servicing.

 

[AKcold]

XR3140HC my 50 hour was same as other posts and did lose a lot of hydro fluid. Mine doesn't have anything obstructing the oil filter but the frame is close so a tight fit but doable getting filter on and off. I used the channel lock oil filter wrenches on mine and went smoothly.

 

[Hammerhead Ted]

Gents, I recently bought a new MT357 and getting the oil filter off was very hard. I drove a screwdriver through it twice, because the first time didn't turn it enough to get it loose. It seems to me like a longer filter would enable me to get a filter wrench on it, and the added length wouldn't interfere w/anything. I've tried looking @ cross references for oil filters, but can't find one that lists the stock LS filter (40409065). I guess I'll have to get my old filter and take it to a store and just start checking new filters 'till I find one that I think may work.
Anyone have any suggestions???

 

[Cycledude]

Gents, I recently bought a new MT357 and getting the oil filter off was very hard. I drove a screwdriver through it twice, because the first time didn't turn it enough to get it loose. It seems to me like a longer filter would enable me to get a filter wrench on it, and the added length wouldn't interfere w/anything. I've tried looking @ cross references for oil filters, but can't find one that lists the stock LS filter (40409065). I guess I'll have to get my old filter and take it to a store and just start checking new filters 'till I find one that I think may work.
Anyone have any suggestions???

The original filter is usually very difficult to remove because they supposedly put them on without applying oil to the filter gasket at the factory. If you apply oil to the replacement filter gasket you most likely won’t have much trouble removing it next time.

 

[Texasmark]

Factory's use torque wrenches to install parts. I have experienced the same problems with any new item I purchased, not just tractors, cars/trucks and my Generac house standby Generator.....after several years the oil filter started leaking at the seam where it was put together. Trying to get it off was like the others mentioned....tough. Apparently the oil filter crimp specs didn't surpass the installation torque specs and the metal to metal seal failed.

On the paint, pure rubbish.

On cost of the filters, last time I was at the dealer's there was a wall full of large boxes full of a full set of filters for every filter on the tractor. The box for my MT2 25s was 50 bucks. Other models were there too, didn't pay attention to for which tractor nor cost.

 

[DB Pilot]

At the fifty hour service for my New Case 65A there was no way I could get any of the filters off. They are too big for cup wrenches plus I could not get the 90 degree angle on some of them to apply torque. No choice but to get it back to the dealer. My guess is that like ptsg said the filters are put on dry at the factory. Have not tried moving the filters yet, hope they move as the dealer was very expensive.

 

[spruce Deere]

DB, for the price of the dealer to do that for you its well worth the investment of a couple filter wrenches. The metal strap type from lisle are of a great benefit and investment.

Channel lock makes a good set of filter pliers also. They can be not nice to a tight filter, but they have very good traction and force.

I bought a whole set of the cup type filter wrenches and rarely use them, use the heck out of my lisle metal strap filter wrenches though, second is the Channel locks.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

On the paint, pure rubbish.

Ohh, it's not.....
When it was time for the first 50 hour, those filters were just as others described.... put on by a gorilla sized torque wrench, then painted.
I have a very nice pair of the oil filter channel locks. Couldn't budge them.....then I remembered about cutting the paint around the edge of the filter.
Guess what? either I got very, very strong, or cutting the paint works. I was able to unscrew them with two hands....

 

[martyman1]

I’m just over the 50 hour mark on my MT347HC. I bought LS branded filters and it ran me about $125 for all three, engine oil, hydrostatic, and hydraulic. I don’t mind a few dollars extra every few years for the peace of mind. Now, for the work...

The concept is simple. Spin off 3 filters and put new ones on. Easy, right?

First was the engine oil filter. It was on pretty tight but came off with moderate force. I ran into one big hinderance trying to take it off. A metal line runs right under the filter and rubs it as you spin it off. It was tight enough to create a dent in the old filter, creating a ring around it:View attachment 720843
I used a pry bar and gentle force to move the line out of the way enough to get the new one on with no damage. What a ridiculous thing to deal with. Here’s what I mean:View attachment 720846

Next, I went after the big filter under the right side. The past posts stating it was put on tight were not wrong. I was afraid I was going to bend some lines trying to get it off. Once the filter wrench teeth grabbed on, I was able to keep it in place long enough to get a foot on it from outside. I grabbed on the back wheel and the front grab bar and pushed as hard as I could. It finally started giving up. There was no way I was getting it off any other way. DO NOT put a screwdriver through it. I’ll explain next. Here is the new one in place after smashing one finger and cursing up a storm:View attachment 720844
I saw a video about it only letting out a few quarts of fluid then it stops leaking. The guy could then leave it and get lunch if he wanted with no urgency because it quit leaking. That is total bull for this model. I rushed as fast as I could to get the new one on and lost this much fluid:View attachment 720845
Putting a screwdriver through the can might have created a slower flow, but it would have been a huge mess. Also, the new filter would not spin on fully until I grabbed it with a cloth and twisted. Then it went like it should. It might have been a small burr in the thread path, as that is what it seemed like. I wasn’t going to pull it off again to check though. Notice the old filter is crushed and gouged to hell. Black paint flakes are all over the concrete as well from the wrench. You will not be using a strap-type wrench on this filter. No way. Get giant channel locks or something with jaws.

Finally, I got to the vertical HST filter. It was the easiest by far. Spun it off with very little force using a band/strap filter wrench and leaked a few ounces. I almost wondered if I did something wrong because it was too smooth.View attachment 720848

Prior to my LS, I had a Kubota. Nothing on the Kubota was this hard or unfriendly. But I saved a lot of labor cost and learned something. Anyway, if you’re going to do your own, you better plan for the worst and maybe it’ll work out better.

there is a new smaller engine oil filter for that model. check with your dealer. hyd. filter are extremely tight on all LS tractors from factory