My new Ford 4000! -First time Tractor Owner

[Cbrown9064]

This is your PTO shift lever. Pull forward to about 10-11 o'clock to disengage.



This lever beneath the seat determines how your 3 point works. The position it is in now is called Implement Position Control. If you flip it so it points down that is called Draft Control. Your touch control lever (runs in a arc just above this selector) functions differently based on a position of this lever. A moot point anyway, as you cannot hook anything to the 3 point with the hoe on it.

 

[Soundguy]

sherman is an aux tranny.

it's a good thing. more ranges.. or.. other options.. like reverser.. etc.

onthe brakes. it's just mechanical drum brakes. it has a star wheel adjuster under alil clip / plug on the brake back panel.

as for the hyds.... that lil mushroom cap with the dip stick is the hyd sump..

 

[hatch789]

I am at Messick's right now, and the big question for me right now is hydraulic fluid. I poured 2.5 gal into my front tank 2 days ago and it drank that up and still did not even show up on the dipstick. I was going to get another 2.5 gallons but maybe I should get 5? I would like to know how much hydraulic fluid this baby takes total? I was told there were only 2 hydraulic resevours. One for the main hydraulics and the other little one for the power steering.

also anyone know the year of my tractor by its serial number?

 

[Cbrown9064]

I am at Messick's right now, and the big question for me right now is hydraulic fluid. I poured 2.5 gal into my front tank 2 days ago and it drank that up and still did not even show up on the dipstick. I was going to get another 2.5 gallons but maybe I should get 5? I would like to know how much hydraulic fluid this baby takes total? I was told there were only 2 hydraulic resevours. One for the main hydraulics and the other little one for the power steering.

also anyone know the year of my tractor by its serial number?

By the serial number, it is a 1958. Look at this site... Identifying Old Ford Tractors

From the pictures you have taken, it does not look like the loader or hoe run off the "tractor" hydraulics. That is the center section under the seat. The "center" section holds 2 gallons of UTF (not straight "hydraulic" fluid).

Where is this dipstick you are checking?

Need more info. It seems the loader and the hoe could have their own hydraulic reservoirs and pumps. Unknown as to capacity without more info.

 

[hatch789]

The tank I'm trying to fill is in the very front of the tractor in front of the gasoline tank and the radiator. I can take a pic of it if you like. It has a little short, fat dipstick perhaps 10 inches long? I was told by the previous owner that this was the hydraulic tank that needed to be filled and topped off as well as the power steering little pan reservoir.

Important question for you guys. I'm cleaning my carb right now and it was very nasty. Lots of Jelly crap in there (old gas??) so I am sure this was the issue... anyway, what's the little (bleeder valve?) in the bottom left next to the glass sediment bowl, in this pic? http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...w-ford-4000-first-img_20130908_190051_348.jpg

I think the main adjustment screw the one on the top of the carb? -First one that would be encountered after gas comes from filter bowl... I think that is supposed to be opened 2 full turns.

So what's that bottom left one for and what's it's adjustment supposed to be?

 

[hatch789]

Well great news. I finished thoroughly cleaning my carburetor and got rid off all of the gunk, jelly and scale. I cleaned each port and used a small wire to ensure even the tiny little ones were open. I only needed one new gasket really but I got both just to be safe. The one sealing my manifold to the carb was fine from what I could see.

I didn't know what to adjust the 2 screws I mentioned above so I had the top left one set at 2 full turns open and the bottom one was closed fully.

I was pleasantly surprised when my fuel came rushing into my sediment bowl and filled up right into the carb. Then it stopped shortly after as I can only assume my float needle was working properly. I was watching the little bubbles in the sediment bowl to see when the flow came to a stop. Everything seemed to be in perfect order.

I also changed all 4 of my plugs with new H10C's

I went to fire it up and the engine immediately sputtered but then died right away. I tried a few more attempts. Choke, no-choke, half throttle... then I started thinking... ok it can't be the carb because that's pristine. So I was already pretty confident I had the top left needle set right. It was 1 full turn open when I got it from the guy I bought it from. The problem was, I thought the needle valve on the bottom left was just a bleeder valve. After dis-assembly I realized it was a needle valve for some jets. So since no one responded yet I decided I'd try 2 turns open on that one. As soon as I did that, it fired right up and ran strong.

So as of now both of my needle adjustments are open 2 full turns. I am going to try to figure out what they are each for and what settings they should be at, so any help or advise is welcome. I had it running for an hour tonight and it was quite smooth. I could even start it with a simple press of the button and no choke at all. Awesome!

OK I got my break shoes adjusted properly but I am having a bit of a problem with my right break. It is bottoming out on the metal frame and forcing me to have to adjust that break shoe slightly tighter than the left one. The left one works great and is not bottoming out on anything. I tried adjusting the collar (it has a bolt to loosen the collar) but that didn't do much, it just slipped back into the place it was at before. Probably keyed or something so it is not just friction holding the break petal at the angle it's at. So how can I adjust that angle of the pedal? I could bend the bar I suppose? But there is probably a better way to adjust it so that it doesn't bottom out anymore. -Suggestions welcome.

 

[Soundguy]

it's very possible you have almost no shoe left on the right, or worn cam or bushings.

2 turns on main is ok if it does not puff black sooty smoke on throttleup. .. heck.. 2 turns on an idle is fine if it runs ok. idle is an air needle. in to enrich.. out to lean. main is a fuel needle.. out to enrich, in to lean.

h10c is not the choice i would have used. but they will make sparks.. so no use changing them now that they are used.

al437 or champ h12 ( 512 ) is when would be a better choice if you ever change them again

 

[hatch789]

If it does puff black smoke on throttleup, do I turn that down a bit or open it up more?

Also the idle screw. Do you set that so that when you push the throttle all the way up, that it just idles nicely? The guy I got it from had it set so that it stalled when you pushed the throttle all the way up. I didn't like that.

 

[Soundguy]

i set idle screws for fastest idle

close main screw to reduce puffing and lean her out.. only change 1/8 turn at a tim. snatch on throttle. if it stumbles and catches up.. it's too lean. if it puffs black.. it's too rich.

if it gurgles and puffs black and stumbles it's WAY too rich..

 

[ksbrdmkr]

The gas tractors I am use to the main fuel screw would be adjusted at a 1 1/2 turns to start and for heavy plowing I would open to 1 3/4, light idle type work 1 1/4 might work but would be harder on the valves (lean burns hotter). On the brakes the older tractors it usually worked better not to have the brakes locked together because the right brakes would always ware faster because of the right turns for farm work and by angling your foot would make for more even braking.