My new to me BCS 715

[milkman]

Yeah, that's a 26" tiller. Our 715 had a 20" on it. Our new 852 has a 26", but it is narrowed to 20" for cultivating between rows all the time. The extra 6" was cheap enough that we got it. You can narrow all the BCS tillers by removing tines and/or bobbins and adjusting the hood ends. Yours should, IIRC, work as a 18", 20",and 26" tiller. It's all in the manual you get on the CD.

As far as the oil fill plug: You are not going to find it with the hood on. Note that the vertical center part of the hood is actually 2 pieces, hiding this.

Wow, new tines, are those the ones that Joel sells for rental units? I'll have to replace mine and I like the looks of those.

 

[Ezzrider]

I will give that a try later today. I went by Tractor Supply yesterday and picked up some 80-90W gear oil so I intend on changing out all the oils. I already have some
10-30W Kubota engine oil. I run Windows XP so I don't have that picture option. Thanks again.

 

[milkman]

I will give that a try later today. I went by Tractor Supply yesterday and picked up some 80-90W gear oil so I intend on changing out all the oils. I already have some
10-30W Kubota engine oil. I run Windows XP so I don't have that picture option. Thanks again.

I have XP on one of my computers and use MS Windows Paint to make the circles and arrows.

 

[Ezzrider]

I will give that a try. By the way I believe I have read that the oil put in the tiller gear box needs to be slightly underfilled not to blow out seals? If the fill area is on the top I guess there is a drain plug on the bottom of the gear box? I have not seen one. How much do you put in your gear box? Hopefully I will received the CD in the next day or so.

 

[clytle374]

Those are the rental tines from Joel. I wish the new tiller had those on it.

To drain the tiller gearbox, simply pull out the fill plug and invert the tiller.

 

[Ezzrider]

You mean the tiller box has to be completley removed to replace the oil and turned upside down to drain? Dang. I believe there were 2 bolts holding the tiller box to the tractor. So ya need to remove the hood to check the level and remove the entire tiller box from the tractor to remove and refill. Maybe this is not big deal but it does seem like a poor design? I guess there is a shaft that runs from the tractor tranmission back to the tiller box that will be undone with you take off the tiller box. Is that a big deal or fairly simple? Boy I need that CD. Thanks again.

 

[clytle374]

You mean the tiller box has to be completley removed to replace the oil and turned upside down to drain? Dang. I believe there were 2 bolts holding the tiller box to the tractor. So ya need to remove the hood to check the level and remove the entire tiller box from the tractor to remove and refill. Maybe this is not big deal but it does seem like a poor design? I guess there is a shaft that runs from the tractor tranmission back to the tiller box that will be undone with you take off the tiller box. Is that a big deal or fairly simple? Boy I need that CD. Thanks again.

Relax, it's real easy. Much easier than swapping 3-point implements, and you need to grease the inside of that anyway since I doubt it's been done recently. I could swap between the sickle bar and tiller in about 2 minutes without the quick connect.

Remove the 2 nuts and the tiller slips off. The PTO shaft inside is where the actual engagement/disengagement takes place and is why it needs greased. It'll be explanatory when you get there. Hint: Have the PTO in the off setting when you do it.

It is actually a better design than a drain plug that would be all worn away from years of dirt and stone abrasion. When I replaced the tines and seals in ours, I had to replace every stud and nut due to them being worn.

 

[Ezzrider]

I guess you are correct on the wear on the studs and nuts from years of dirt and stone abrasion. I switch out 3 point implements on my Kubota that can be a real pain so I guess this should not be a severe issue. I guess when I get it removed I will see how the PTO shaft sits in the tiller box. I am very familar with putting the PTO shaft back on my Kubota tractor and it needs to be in nuetral to spin the gear on the back of the tractor to line up with the PTO shaft. I guess this will be simular? When I remove the tiller gear box is there any type of seal that is where the tiller bolts to the tractor? When I do this once it should be simple from then on.

 

[milkman]

I guess you are correct on the wear on the studs and nuts from years of dirt and stone abrasion. I switch out 3 point implements on my Kubota that can be a real pain so I guess this should not be a severe issue. I guess when I get it removed I will see how the PTO shaft sits in the tiller box. I am very familar with putting the PTO shaft back on my Kubota tractor and it needs to be in nuetral to spin the gear on the back of the tractor to line up with the PTO shaft. I guess this will be simular? When I remove the tiller gear box is there any type of seal that is where the tiller bolts to the tractor? When I do this once it should be simple from then on.

When you take the two nuts off that hold the tiller to the tractor, nothing leaks out, there is a bearing and a seal on the end of the splined shaft on the tiller. On the tractor end, there is a female splined coupler that engages the splines on the tiller shaft. The tractor end also has a seal that holds the transmision gear oil. Grease the splined coupler where it slides on the tractor shaft and where it couples to the tiller shaft. It's really a simple coupling and is easy to figure out once you get it apart. Still haven't found my manuals, I know they're around here somewhere.

 

[Ezzrider]

Thanks. I received the CD today's mail. It has a manual on it and I am in the process of reading up on it now. Unfortunately we are getting a lot of rain this afternoon due the the passing of the storm in the Gulf so I will not get a chance to take things apart.