My NX5510H

   / My NX5510H #101  
You already have the adapters I described earlier. What's sticking out is MNPT. (see how they are tapered? = pipe thread)
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#102  
You already have the adapters I described earlier. What's sticking out is MNPT. (see how they are tapered? = pipe thread)

Yes, I saw/see that they tapper. I just wasn't sure what they were (don't know what BSPP thread is like).

MNPT is what I would use to connect up an AG connector, correct?

I'm wanting to go JIC, in which case I'm not sure if these adapters are of any real use to me. Would have been nice to have been able to specify: still don't know why they come with these when they don't mention it.
 
   / My NX5510H #103  
You'd build a hose that the FNPT on one end and JIC on the other. But I don't think there are any JIC QDs (only PT or Boss are common). I think this is an unusual place to use JIC.
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#104  
You'd build a hose that the FNPT on one end and JIC on the other. But I don't think there are any JIC QDs (only PT or Boss are common.

I still have to do a 90 degree on that cylinder. Seems that I'd be better off just going from there with BSPP to JIC, which would keep me JIC on both ends of the hose (adapter on tractor side would go JIC to MNPT to connect to the AG coupler).
 
   / My NX5510H #105  
I still have to do a 90 degree on that cylinder. Seems that I'd be better off just going from there with BSPP to JIC, which would keep me JIC on both ends of the hose (adapter on tractor side would go JIC to MNPT to connect to the AG coupler).

Seem unnecessarily complex to me unless you already have the hose. :confused3: sounds like it would work though.

Edit: if you can find that adapter...
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#106  
Seem unnecessarily complex to me unless you already have the hose. :confused3: sounds like it would work though.

Edit: if you can find that adapter...

I really don't know. That's why I'm here asking:)

Are you thinking that I'd get a hose with an FNPT 90 degree connector on it? It would have to be 1/2" hose, though. (would 1/2" be an issue with flexing [or lack of flexing] back here?)
 
   / My NX5510H #107  
Here is the link to surplus center. Surplus Center

6 JIC M x 3/8 BSPP M 90 DEGREE ELBOW ITEM NUMBER: 9-3801-6-6

3/8" X 36" JIC 6F X JIC 6F 4800 PSI HYD HOSE ITEM NUMBER: 930-2236

JIC 6M x 1/2 NPTM CONNECTOR ITEM NUMBER: 9-2404-6-8 PRICE: $1.55

1/2" NPT COUPLER MALE TIP S71-4 ITEM NUMBER: 928-AA
 

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   / My NX5510H #108  
The pic isn't the greatest, and the tractor is a bit dirty but at least you get the idea of what it looks like hooked up. As for the parts list just order 2 of each item and you would be set.
 
   / My NX5510H #109  
Been wondering... Can I verify that my dealer did, in fact, ballast my rear tires? Rotate valve stem down so it's close to the ground and then release the valve a bit? I can't recall what ballast was supposed to be used, other than it's not calcium chloride.

Yes, you can do that. They should be filled to approximate the top of the rim, so having the valve stem anywhere but the very top should give you your answer. Just take off the cap and push the little button.
 
   / My NX5510H #110  
Most times the tires are way overinflated from the dealer. So you will want to check pressures anyway...If the tires are filled you will know as soon as you take your air chuck off the stem (or you can hear the air gurgling through the fluid). Even if the valves are at the top they still hold a little liquid in them. I fill my filled tires with the valve stem at the top, idkw. Oh, I remember, because the valves sometimes stick a little with calcium in them. When they stick and the stem is at the bottom the fluid gushes out. When the valves are at the top and you hit them with pretty high pressure the fluid is blown out of the stem into the tire immediately and the valves don't stick open. Calcium is used in Canada's colder regions because anything else will freeze. Calcium is also heavy. The rusted rim problems are way overstated (as long as your inner tubes are good).

Keep a good eye (wrench) on the loader pin-keeper bolts. Also check all of the loader- frame bolts. Check your drawbar pin-keeper (dealer probably installed the drawbar).

Check the wheel lugs!

Basically check all the bolts, especially the ones the dealer has touched.

Not to be too hard on dealers, but the factory torques to spec. The dealer, not so much...
 

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