My NX6010

[MinnesotaEric]

Thanks for the comments guys.

I told my distributor, that God willing, I should have a viable product by next spring.

So far the only issue I've found with my work is that one of the soft lines needs to be lengthened two inches in order to properly "lay" right, a cosmetic issue, really.

We'll likely also offer a upper and lower grill insert kit through distribution (so you can get it straight from your local dealer) so others don't bash their grills, like I did.

 

[TSO]

My first grapple.

I made several videos, but my uploads are limited to municipal bar bandwidth, so here is one video I made bashing down trees.

LOL --- I love the maniacal laugh! And, I probably make the same noises when I knock down trees! If I may, when you get to the larger stuff, push from a higher position with the loader. The leverage will knock the tree down easier, plus expose the roots for better "total removal."

Looks like the new girl is getting some battle wounds already. I got a stick stuck in nearly the same position, hitting the fan blades on my Massey... one of my winter barn projects will hopefully address a remedy! I also got a stick stuck in the HST pedal linkage under the floorboard. Of course, I found that out AFTER a panic moment when the tractor pedal wouldn't move and I thought I actually broke something!!!

Still happy you went with the Kioti? I still enjoy the Massey, at nearly 290 hrs now ... but I still find times that I could use more HP and of course the NX6010 would be a contender if I ever upgraded.

 

[94BULLITT]

Thanks for the comments guys.

I told my distributor, that God willing, I should have a viable product by next spring.

So far the only issue I've found with my work is that one of the soft lines needs to be lengthened two inches in order to properly "lay" right, a cosmetic issue, really.

We'll likely also offer a upper and lower grill insert kit through distribution (so you can get it straight from your local dealer) so others don't bash their grills, like I did.

Nice job on the 3rd function. I like that you used steel lines, that is how they should be. I hate seeing big hoses zip tied to the loader.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

LOL --- I love the maniacal laugh! And, I probably make the same noises when I knock down trees! If I may, when you get to the larger stuff, push from a higher position with the loader. The leverage will knock the tree down easier, plus expose the roots for better "total removal."

Looks like the new girl is getting some battle wounds already. I got a stick stuck in nearly the same position, hitting the fan blades on my Massey... one of my winter barn projects will hopefully address a remedy! I also got a stick stuck in the HST pedal linkage under the floorboard. Of course, I found that out AFTER a panic moment when the tractor pedal wouldn't move and I thought I actually broke something!!!

Still happy you went with the Kioti? I still enjoy the Massey, at nearly 290 hrs now ... but I still find times that I could use more HP and of course the NX6010 would be a contender if I ever upgraded.

I'm back from my bandwidth-challenged northern holdings. :tractor:

I'm attempting to import my russian dash cam videos on my laptop right now and unless more technological failures happen (a 24" Samsung monitor just smoked when I turned on my desktop), someday, I'll have awesome Woods BB720X videos to share.

Here is what I now know about my NX6010:

Yes I'd purchase it again, but that is not to say that it couldn't do with some additional optional upgrades from the factory.

For what it is worth, in no way have I been trying to wreck anything.

And yet, I managed to

1. punch a hole into the front grill,
2. dent sheet metal my front hood (in a different place than the hole in the grill),
3. I broke two gas caps.
4. I bent both gas tank tie-down bolts.
5. I discovered that the HST pedal levers can hit the factory loader soft lines (this needs a shield shaped like a W to sort out, IMO.
6. The welds on the rear running lights on the cab need to be stronger so the brackets bend, rather than popping their welds (they look beefy). Even better, bolt-on brackets, Kioti! That way when people like myself bend the brackets on their cab, we can run over to our Kioti dealers and explain how we had to crash that Honda and buy another bracket!
7. jam my front windshield wiper. (weird happening, a 3" sapling jammed up against the glass and wiper and shoved it straight up.
8. break my right rear fender straight off (the beefy, metal mount it bolts to didn't move!). Since the beefy, metal mount of the fender seems impregnable, I'm going to try bolting or riveting on conveyor belt for the perfect crash-proof rear fender extension.
9. ripped a running light right off of its mounting bracket. The same tree tore the fender off. Bad oak tree, no diner!
10. Lose a downlink 3pt pin. This one is weird: I came up to the tractor in the morning and the lower downlink pin was missing and my 3pt was handing low on one side. I'm doing my daily grease jobs at the end of the day, and the 3pt pin wasn't missing the day before. Who steals a 3pt pin in the middle of nowhere? This does bring up an issue: none of the pins are SAE. I had to grind down a 3/4" pin in order to make it fit.
11. I also lost both mirror covers that cover where the round-stock mirror support meets the mirror itself. Yeah, I have no idea either but they both bailed on the last day of working.

I think I should make some type of gas cap guard. From the cab, I cannot see the gas cap, but after breaking two gas caps, clearly the gas cap is in the danger zone.
I took measurements so I can make out of some type of expanded sheet stock, grill guard inserts. These should be a factory option.

The first regeneration cycle came at 28 hours. As I approached the regen cycle the tractor seemed to lose some power which was then restored after the regen cycle.

The good news is that while I was away, my electronic stuff all came in so I can make my first industrial accelerator in a project box that doesn't have forty test leads running everywhere, bolt it on the next time I visit my tractor and test it out!

Land clearing wise, I got my tractor all the way out to what will become a beach someday.

Woods BB720X

The Kioti NX6010 HST easily runs a Woods BB720X. The Woods 720 is able to mulch pretty much everything I can get it to knock over. At one point I was knocking over a field of 20' tall 3-4" poplar. Really the limit of the rotary cutter was that it didn't cut low hanging limbs which prevented me from just tearing through the woods. I'm very pleased with my purchase, I just wish I had gotten a wider BrushBull.

 

[Scooby074]

Royksopp :thumbsup:

 

[k0ua]

Eric, if I may add my 2 centavos in on the technique for pushing brush, trees, rocks and unknown debris with a tractor to maximize safety of the tractor.

You have to start with going VERY slowly into the first push and watching all sides of the tractor for anything that will hang up and rip off stuff on the tractor, Dont push in more than a tractor length, and preferably not even that much, then back out and and set over less than a tracor width to the right lets say. That way your left side of the tractor is safe from damage as it is traveling in the already safely pushed corridor you just finished.

You are free to concentrate on your vulverable right side of the tractor. It is best to make little right turning movements on the right side into the unknown brush so that you do not expose more of the side of the tractor than you have to. Let the bucket take the brunt of the "exploring" in the brush not your tires and sides of the tractor. Keep doing this until you have enough pushed out that you can then turn the tractor 90 degrees and work deeper into the brush with one side or another while just watching one side and minimizing your exposure.

While just bulling on thu the woods can be great fun, a more cautious approach will minimize risk, and you will have a heck of a lot less parts to buy. Again, it is your tractor, and use it as you wish, but my approach has cleared a lot of land, at very little damage.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, if I may add my 2 centavos in on the technique for pushing brush, trees, rocks and unknown debris with a tractor to maximize safety of the tractor.

You have to start with going VERY slowly into the first push and watching all sides of the tractor for anything that will hang up and rip off stuff on the tractor, Dont push in more than a tractor length, and preferably not even that much, then back out and and set over less than a tracor width to the right lets say. That way your left side of the tractor is safe from damage as it is traveling in the already safely pushed corridor you just finished.

You are free to concentrate on your vulverable right side of the tractor. It is best to make little right turning movements on the right side into the unknown brush so that you do not expose more of the side of the tractor than you have to. Let the bucket take the brunt of the "exploring" in the brush not your tires and sides of the tractor. Keep doing this until you have enough pushed out that you can then turn the tractor 90 degrees and work deeper into the brush with one side or another while just watching one side and minimizing your exposure.

While just bulling on thu the woods can be great fun, a more cautious approach will minimize risk, and you will have a heck of a lot less parts to buy. Again, it is your tractor, and use it as you wish, but my approach has cleared a lot of land, at very little damage.

Near as I can tell, the damage has all happened when pulling forward from something I backed into. That and the brush pile from piling windfalls and what not.

And then, most of the damage has come from red oak tree branches from 3-4" little oaks.

Anyway, you're right.

While I have been using Fluid Film on my driveshaft and PTO, I learned that being strong enough to take the driveshaft's weight doesn't matter. What matters is a 2' pry bar.

 

[k0ua]

Yeah, your PTO shaft is a lot longer, and doubtless weighs more than the little cutter I have. What I have heard of people doing is to suspend the PTO shaft from a strong bungee cord/cords so that it hangs about right to hit the PTO shaft, that way they can fiddle with getting the splines lined up without having to horse that weight up all the time. This makes for less "urgency" in getting the splines lined up so quickly. Then remove the bungees and make the final connection to your quick hitch. Would that work for you?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Yeah, your PTO shaft is a lot longer, and doubtless weighs more than the little cutter I have. What I have heard of people doing is to suspend the PTO shaft from a strong bungee cord/cords so that it hangs about right to hit the PTO shaft, that way they can fiddle with getting the splines lined up without having to horse that weight up all the time. This makes for less "urgency" in getting the splines lined up so quickly. Then remove the bungees and make the final connection to your quick hitch. Would that work for you?

Lining up the splines hasn't been a problem for me so far. The problem is getting the ring that pulls back the retaining balls to pull back while pushing the driveshaft foreword while reaching around the CAT2 quick hitch.

 

[k0ua]

Lining up the splines hasn't been a problem for me so far. The problem is getting the ring that pulls back the retaining balls to pull back while pushing the driveshaft foreword while reaching around the CAT2 quick hitch.

What can I say? That design of PTO coupler sucks.