My NX6010

[TJP89]

Hey, now. That looks like steamed shrimp there (right next to the onion rings).

Not to mention what looks like a pan of brownies on the table to the right:thumbsup:

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Random NX owner factoid. I've discovered that if my NX6010 sits around long enough on attempted start-up, the hour meter will display error code ERR-008, and the engine will not start. The only mention in all of Kioti's literature is in the owner's manual (cf. p. 4-32 in your owner's manual): no signal from water sensor which is completely useless because the service manual says nothing, not a thing about the ERR codes that can be displayed in the hour meter.

Experience informs me that it isn't water in the fuel, it is a lack of prime in the fuel system that the water in fuel sensor is picking up. On the right side of the engine, on the fuel filter housing itself is the priming pump. Pump the primer and prime the fuel system and the tractor will now start.

Not a thing about this in the service manual.

Your welcome.

 

[Threepoint]

That's odd about the error code. The bigger question for me is why you lose prime just sitting for awhile. There are so few hours on the tractor, I'd suspect a loose fuel-line fitting letting air in. Haven't looked back in the thread to see, but didn't you have the fuel tank out to make the nipple repair? Maybe something didn't seat fully when you reinstalled. Or maybe damage to the fuel line itself? You had some pretty intrusive encounters with cut saplings before you installed the under armor. Just thinking out loud; things you've probably already considered.

My NX4510 wouldn't start yesterday either. Took me 15 minutes to figure out why, fretting that a safety switch on the seat or the range selector was acting up. Note to self: When engaging electronic PTO to help tractor warm up quicker, remember to disengage it on final shut down. Otherwise no startee uppee next time. :mur:

 

[MinnesotaEric]

That's odd about the error code. The bigger question for me is why you lose prime just sitting for awhile. There are so few hours on the tractor, I'd suspect a loose fuel-line fitting letting air in. Haven't looked back in the thread to see, but didn't you have the fuel tank out to make the nipple repair? Maybe something didn't seat fully when you reinstalled. Or maybe damage to the fuel line itself? You had some pretty intrusive encounters with cut saplings before you installed the under armor. Just thinking out loud; things you've probably already considered.

My NX4510 wouldn't start yesterday either. Took me 15 minutes to figure out why, fretting that a safety switch on the seat or the range selector was acting up. Note to self: When engaging electronic PTO to help tractor warm up quicker, remember to disengage it on final shut down. Otherwise no startee uppee next time. :mur:

I have not had the problem since I ripped the fuel line off of the nipple on the new gas tank where i saw the code again, and from that episode is how I figured out what was going on with that error code.

I yanked the fuel line off, the factor kept running until fuel pressure dropped and then the engine died. I hopped out, and immediate saw the problem, put the fuel line back on, tried to start, saw the code, primed the pump, and started the engine.

If you recall, I had the same code on my driveway before the tractor saw any use after my extended series of upgrades this past summer. Up until my figuring out what the problem was a loss of prime, I had a nagging idea that my tractor would randomly not start for reasons I did not understand but thought at the time to be a flakey water in fuel sensor (I have a spare water in fuel sensor in the cab of my tractor now as a result). Randomly not starting is an annoying worry on a brand new tractor—especially since I was parking it out in the field, away from most of my tools.

Anyway, priming the fuel system is fixes the problem.

Also, my dealer told me that the ECU needed a hard reset from the dealer-only software if the tractor ran out of fuel. Since I ran out of fuel (I was at PTO power at the time) and the engine quit, I can tell you that what Kioti told my dealer is wrong. Run out of fuel, prime the system, and it starts right up--all without a 150 mile trip back to my dealer for a five minute session with their laptop to reset the ECU.

 

[KiotiKevin]

Hi Eric,
I'm interested in your snow blade. Could you tell me what was involved, what extras were needed with the hydraulic hook up with the joystick control etc. Cost and how and if complicated the changeover might be. By the way "Happy Holidays everyone" Thanks
Kevin

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Hi Eric,
I'm interested in your snow blade. Could you tell me what was involved, what extras were needed with the hydraulic hook up with the joystick control etc. Cost and how and if complicated the changeover might be. By the way "Happy Holidays everyone" Thanks
Kevin

My snow blade is an eight foot Hiniker "Big Ox" that has the skid-steer quick disconnect and has a 30" moldboard. Hiniker is a local Minnesotan company manufacturing out of North Mankato that makes snow blades and agg. equipment. The blade is 2 or 3 feet in front of the quick disconnect. I've mounted the deflector kit (conveyer belt) as well as added two wear bars. The blade floats up and down on a chain, and good side to side float for off camber grades. The best price I found was from Big Rig Truck dot net out of Nebraska. In this way I avoided sales tax as well as the shipping cost as I picked up the blade directly from Hiniker (nice people).

Hiniker Big Ox skid loader

http://www.bigrigtruck.net/images/bigrig/HINIKER Big Ox Snow Plow 2013-2014 Price List.pdf

 

[KiotiKevin]

Thanks Eric, would I need to make any modifications to my front hydraulics.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I've thought about a plow like that but I'd be afraid of the sideways stresses on the loader arms.

 

[fieldman12]

Have you looked at the fuel line closely to make sure no cracks? Some times they will even suck air and not leak when bad. I had a similar issue on my Deere and also they bleed back to the tank. They put a one way inline valve on mine that would not let it bleed back to tank.

I have not had the problem since I ripped the fuel line off of the nipple on the new gas tank where i saw the code again, and from that episode is how I figured out what was going on with that error code.

I yanked the fuel line off, the factor kept running until fuel pressure dropped and then the engine died. I hopped out, and immediate saw the problem, put the fuel line back on, tried to start, saw the code, primed the pump, and started the engine.

If you recall, I had the same code on my driveway before the tractor saw any use after my extended series of upgrades this past summer. Up until my figuring out what the problem was a loss of prime, I had a nagging idea that my tractor would randomly not start for reasons I did not understand but thought at the time to be a flakey water in fuel sensor (I have a spare water in fuel sensor in the cab of my tractor now as a result). Randomly not starting is an annoying worry on a brand new tractor—especially since I was parking it out in the field, away from most of my tools.

Anyway, priming the fuel system is fixes the problem.

Also, my dealer told me that the ECU needed a hard reset from the dealer-only software if the tractor ran out of fuel. Since I ran out of fuel (I was at PTO power at the time) and the engine quit, I can tell you that what Kioti told my dealer is wrong. Run out of fuel, prime the system, and it starts right up--all without a 150 mile trip back to my dealer for a five minute session with their laptop to reset the ECU.

 

[fieldman12]

Also some times the primer pump head that attaches both parts together can be a little loose. Make sure all that is tight as well. Sounds like your sucking air.