My possible new project / plan

   / My possible new project / plan #11  
if you do decide to move it, u'll never have enough controll with a tractor to go 1/2 inch when u put that much pull on it and it jumps it will have a mind of its own, i'd feel alot safer with a small jack or wedge in between the wall and steps..on most houses those precast steps are bolted thru the foundation, i'd have a good look in your basement b4 u pull on anything!
 
   / My possible new project / plan
  • Thread Starter
#12  
if you do decide to move it, u'll never have enough controll with a tractor to go 1/2 inch when u put that much pull on it and it jumps it will have a mind of its own, i'd feel alot safer with a small jack or wedge in between the wall and steps..on most houses those precast steps are bolted thru the foundation, i'd have a good look in your basement b4 u pull on anything!

The reason behind the step question is that they removed them, put a new wall in and set the steps back (loose...not attached to anything) but too tight to the house.

I know they did not attach them to the house because I watched them put them in place...spread topsoil and drive off.

Never noticed they were too close until later.

I would hate to push against the wall they just put up.

The space behind the steps would never allow anything in there like a jack.

Only , maybe, 3/4 to an inch space on the lower part
 
   / My possible new project / plan #13  
My neighbor is rebuilding some door framing as we type because of this type of mistake.

Get it moved.
 
   / My possible new project / plan #14  
Most likely the steps are hollow I think you strap trick would work
I would use a come along to pull it though what you use for an anchor shouldn't matter as long as it is heavier than the steps.

tom
 
   / My possible new project / plan #15  
yooper1,

I agree that you don't want the steps touching the house if you can get a 1/2" or 1" gap. We bought our previous house at an estate auction; it needed some work. We had a concrete stoop at our back door that touched the house. The stoop caused water to rot the sill of the house. I had to replace that part of the sill and the associated floor joists.

First thing I would check is the level of the top platform of your steps. That platform should slope so that rainwater runs away from the house, not toward it. If the contractor dug out the basement wall below those steps, how did he backfill below the steps? The ground below the steps might be settling causing the the steps to lean against the house. In fact I would be surprised if that ground is not settling.

Instead of trying to pull the steps away from the house, I might try jacking up the steps beside the house to lean the steps away from the house. Doing so would get the steps away from the house and also cause rainwater on the top platform to drain away from the house. You could then add some rock under the steps on each side to support them in their new orientation. As the disturbed ground below the steps continues to settle, you might have to repeat this process.

Depending how heavy the steps are, instead of jacking up the steps, you might be able to put a strap around the top of the steps and pull the top of the steps away from the house with your tractor to lean the steps away from the house without jacking. You would want to drive some rebar in the ground in front of the steps to cause the steps to lean instead of slide during the maneuver.

Also, some flashing below the door is not a bad idea. Even if the steps drain water away from the house, rainwater will spash against the house and potentially cause a rot issue if there is no flashing.

Good luck,
Obed
 
   / My possible new project / plan
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Thanks all

The steps were literally put back in place last Thursday the 21st.

I noticed them too close the next day and spoke to the contractor Monday.

So...hopefully they did not settle that bad in in a day.

I think maybe the come-a-long and a strap may do the trick.

And I first am going to check level. From the side, it actually looks like the top might even slope back towards the house....but without a 4 foot level I may be wrong.

I will round up a level first and go from there
 
   / My possible new project / plan #17  
If you know anyone with a "Porta Power" you can take care of it in a few min.,,
 
   / My possible new project / plan #18  
Move them ,or replace the rotten wood in a few years.
I think i would try a flat bar. They don't weight that much. start with a flat bar then use a crow bar.
Army Grunt
 
   / My possible new project / plan
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Well guys, I fixed.

Easier than I figured.

All I needed was a big, and I mean BIG bar:

bar_1.jpg


bar_3.jpg


bar_2.jpg


It was actually a bar used by the railroads to remove spikes from the ties very easily. It is about 5 foot long and weighs about 40 pounds.

I slipped the weird flatter end in behind the steps at about 8 inches off the ground and I barely put any pressure against it and the steps moved. I did each side twice to make sure it moved evenly.

I now have about a 3/4 inch gap all along the top.

gap.jpg


measure1.jpg


measure2.jpg



Very very easy....no straps or chains to break, no need for a come-a-long....all done by 1 person in about 15 minutes.

Next problem is the level.

I only had access to a small torpedo level, but that showed the landing slopes towards the house. Back of the steps are down about 3/8 of an inch.

Thank you to all who offered advice.

I owe you all a drink.

Stop by anytime!
 
   / My possible new project / plan #20  
Good deal. I would've been afraid to try that for fear of cracking the new wall.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

RING 2 STARTS HERE @ 9:15 AM (A54756)
RING 2 STARTS HERE...
40ft 6-Door Shipping Container (A52377)
40ft 6-Door...
UNUSED RAYTREE RMBD72 - 72" HYD DRUM MULCHER (A54757)
UNUSED RAYTREE...
2013 PETERBILT 365 T/A DUMP TRUCK (A51406)
2013 PETERBILT 365...
2012 Honda Accord Sedan (A53424)
2012 Honda Accord...
2023 Club Car Carryall 700 Utility Cart (A54811)
2023 Club Car...
 
Top