Iplayfarmer
Super Member
I get it now!
For my application I needed at least 15 degrees to generate the lift I wanted. The necessary angle is going to vary depending on anticipated loads, hydraulic pressures, position of the ram, etc.
my version of a KK xb dump trailer
- Thread starter 600rider
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I get it now!
For my application I needed at least 15 degrees to generate the lift I wanted. The necessary angle is going to vary depending on anticipated loads, hydraulic pressures, position of the ram, etc.
OP
600rider
Gold Member
Geez I hate to bring up a 1 1/2 year old thread but last summer I decided that this winter I would "modify" the Ken's Fab DT 2.16 because of the weight distribution issues I had, (To much tongue weight.) I decided that I needed to move the axle forward about 5" to get the proper 60/40 ratio for the weight distribution. So I got the snowmobile put away for the year which freed up room in the tractor garage to get the dump in to work on it.
I started off by taking the bed off and then the walking beams off.
Then I cut the outside part of the axle mount off
I measured and moved the outside mounts forward the required 5"s and tack welded them is place.
I didn't want to have reconfigure the lifting mounts so I just cut some 3x1 1/2 channel and drilled holes and welded them on the side of the center axle mounts sort of like an "L" which you can also see in the last pic. I had a 1/2 plate about 5x5 and cut is diagonally to make some gussets and welded them on also.
shot some paint on it and put it back together.
I didn't try it out yet but it can't help but have lass tongue weight. I have used it alot since I finished it and have not had any trouble except the tongue weight issue. It was a fun build and just as much fun was blogging it on here! Thank you all for the comments and advise through out the build!
I started off by taking the bed off and then the walking beams off.
Then I cut the outside part of the axle mount off
I measured and moved the outside mounts forward the required 5"s and tack welded them is place.
I didn't want to have reconfigure the lifting mounts so I just cut some 3x1 1/2 channel and drilled holes and welded them on the side of the center axle mounts sort of like an "L" which you can also see in the last pic. I had a 1/2 plate about 5x5 and cut is diagonally to make some gussets and welded them on also.
shot some paint on it and put it back together.
I didn't try it out yet but it can't help but have lass tongue weight. I have used it alot since I finished it and have not had any trouble except the tongue weight issue. It was a fun build and just as much fun was blogging it on here! Thank you all for the comments and advise through out the build!
OP
600rider
Gold Member
Geez I hate to bring up a 1 1/2 year old thread but last summer I decided that this winter I would "modify" the Ken's Fab DT 2.16 because of the weight distribution issues I had, (To much tongue weight.) I decided that I needed to move the axle forward about 5" to get the proper 60/40 ratio for the weight distribution. So I got the snowmobile put away for the year which freed up room in the tractor garage to get the dump in to work on it.
I started off by taking the bed off and then the walking beams off. View attachment 311114View attachment 311115
Then I cut the outside part of the axle mount off View attachment 311116View attachment 311117
I measured and moved the outside mounts forward the required 5"s and tack welded them is place. View attachment 311118
I didn't want to have reconfigure the lifting mounts so I just cut some 3x1 1/2 channel and drilled holes and welded them on the side of the center axle mounts sort of like an "L" which you can also see in the last pic. I had a 1/2 plate about 5x5 and cut is diagonally to make some gussets and welded them on also.View attachment 311121
shot some paint on it and put it back together. View attachment 311123View attachment 311124
I didn't try it out yet but it can't help but have lass tongue weight. I have used it alot since I finished it and have not had any trouble except the tongue weight issue. It was a fun build and just as much fun was blogging it on here! Thank you all for the comments and advice through out the build!
I started off by taking the bed off and then the walking beams off. View attachment 311114View attachment 311115
Then I cut the outside part of the axle mount off View attachment 311116View attachment 311117
I measured and moved the outside mounts forward the required 5"s and tack welded them is place. View attachment 311118
I didn't want to have reconfigure the lifting mounts so I just cut some 3x1 1/2 channel and drilled holes and welded them on the side of the center axle mounts sort of like an "L" which you can also see in the last pic. I had a 1/2 plate about 5x5 and cut is diagonally to make some gussets and welded them on also.View attachment 311121
shot some paint on it and put it back together. View attachment 311123View attachment 311124
I didn't try it out yet but it can't help but have lass tongue weight. I have used it alot since I finished it and have not had any trouble except the tongue weight issue. It was a fun build and just as much fun was blogging it on here! Thank you all for the comments and advice through out the build!
barronnixon65
New member
Good job Bud! :thumbsup:
ericher69
Veteran Member
Sent from my iPhone 5s 64Gb using TractorByNet
OP
600rider
Gold Member
Originally I had the hinge for the dump at the very back so I could dump it and have the most ground clearance possible. So the wheels were positioned far back so it would not tip the front up when dumped. EPIC FAIL!!! with them that far back I had too much tongue weight and it actually raised the front of the tractor off the ground! as you can see in posts 172 and 173 I moved them forward to rectify the problem. Also I couldn't get the hinge to work properly and had to move them forward about (I can't remember, a foot or 18"s or so) I sacrificed the dump to ground clearance but it has worked flawlessly since I built her!
zing
Platinum Member
Nice to see this thread return to the top because I visited it so many times and looked on jealously as it came together. 
I have an old single axle trailer with a broken axle that I want to convert to walking beam, would you mind answering a couple of questions? I am not sure of what is required to marry the axles and axle supports together.
In this first picture, how thick is the tube that surrounds the axle and did you put bearings at the end or anything? Would it need that?
In this second pic, I am not sure how the axle is kept in place. Did you weld a flat plate to the outside end and and possibly use a cotter pin on the inside?
In this third pic the holes in the axle supports are simply holes in the metal. Is that enough, or do you also have bearings or something that are not installed at the point the pic was taken? I am not judging the build, just asking if bearings are needed anywhere or not because I have no idea.
Thanks very much, and great job on your build!
I have an old single axle trailer with a broken axle that I want to convert to walking beam, would you mind answering a couple of questions? I am not sure of what is required to marry the axles and axle supports together.
In this first picture, how thick is the tube that surrounds the axle and did you put bearings at the end or anything? Would it need that?
In this second pic, I am not sure how the axle is kept in place. Did you weld a flat plate to the outside end and and possibly use a cotter pin on the inside?
In this third pic the holes in the axle supports are simply holes in the metal. Is that enough, or do you also have bearings or something that are not installed at the point the pic was taken? I am not judging the build, just asking if bearings are needed anywhere or not because I have no idea.
Thanks very much, and great job on your build!
Attachments
OP
600rider
Gold Member
Three years later and this one keeps coming back!! LOL You all are too kind! First the easy question, Yes Homemadetools you may publish the pics.
Zing, the axle tube is about .179 wall (3/16) no bearings are needed in my opinion as it only moves about 15* in each direction. It pivots but does not rotate. The pivot axle is 1" diameter and I think the tube was 1.125" ID. On the end of the axle I cut a square plate that fit in the channel of the upright, punched a 1" hole and welded it on to the pivot axle. You could just put a pin on each end I suppose and it would work fine. Yes That is exactly what I did to hold the pivot in place was drill and pin it. Again there were no bearings used so the holes you see are what the axle rides in.
The one problem I have had with my trailer is the frame bent because of a "built in flaw". In the third picture where the visegrip "C" clamop is it bent under load. It is only 2"x2"x.179 square tube and with a 2 ton load on it it was not strong enough and bent.
The plan to fix it is, raise the bed set a floor jack on top and run a chain from the rear of the trailer over the jack then to the front of the frame and jack the chain up pulling the frame back into place the weld a brace from the axle support to the frame and the "step down" blocks for the tongue.
Zing, the axle tube is about .179 wall (3/16) no bearings are needed in my opinion as it only moves about 15* in each direction. It pivots but does not rotate. The pivot axle is 1" diameter and I think the tube was 1.125" ID. On the end of the axle I cut a square plate that fit in the channel of the upright, punched a 1" hole and welded it on to the pivot axle. You could just put a pin on each end I suppose and it would work fine. Yes That is exactly what I did to hold the pivot in place was drill and pin it. Again there were no bearings used so the holes you see are what the axle rides in.
The one problem I have had with my trailer is the frame bent because of a "built in flaw". In the third picture where the visegrip "C" clamop is it bent under load. It is only 2"x2"x.179 square tube and with a 2 ton load on it it was not strong enough and bent.
The plan to fix it is, raise the bed set a floor jack on top and run a chain from the rear of the trailer over the jack then to the front of the frame and jack the chain up pulling the frame back into place the weld a brace from the axle support to the frame and the "step down" blocks for the tongue.
