Napa Gold 1334 oil filters have changed....

[RickB]

I get a lot more excited about hydraulic filters and low micron spec fuel filters than I do about old school fuel filters and most engine oil filters.

I've cured literally dozens of hydraulic system complaints by throwing a Wix or NAPA filter in the trash.

 

[Oaktree]

Thanks Rick. That's exactly my point. I'm not against saving money, but there just isn't any reasonable way to compare filters. The manufacturer has an investment in the game and all the others do not.

Who's to say that the manufacturer doesn't go with the lowest bidder on consumable items like filters? You generally don't know who makes it. An aftermarket brand has a name to protect as well, not good for business if they make a shoddy product.

 

[RickB]

Who's to say that the manufacturer doesn't go with the lowest bidder on consumable items like filters? You generally don't know who makes it. An aftermarket brand has a name to protect as well, not good for business if they make a shoddy product.

The OEM specs the filter to protect their equipment through its warranty period. Filters aren't their end game, a repeat equipment customer is. The aftermarket specs their filters to not self destruct before the next change interval and they are selling a commodity at a price point.
This is somewhat simplified, but not by very much.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

The OEM specs the filter to protect their equipment through its warranty period. Filters aren't their end game, a repeat equipment customer is. The aftermarket specs their filters to not self destruct before the next change interval and they are selling a commodity at a price point.
This is somewhat simplified, but not by very much.

So is it just filters? Or do you purchase all the fluids that you change from the dealer, in other words all OEM fluids, oil, trans hydraulic, anti freeze, etc.

 

[TMGT]

I get a lot more excited about hydraulic filters and low micron spec fuel filters than I do about old school fuel filters and most engine oil filters.

I've cured literally dozens of hydraulic system complaints by throwing a Wix or NAPA filter in the trash.

Exactly, engine oil filters typically have a wider exceptable range then hydraulic and modern diesel fuel filters. I started cutting filters open a number of years ago for inspection and to see the build quality. For my tractors, both HST, I use OEM for the hyd and trans, even the engine oil since it's the same price as a quality aftermarket.

The problem I've come across with a lot of aftermarket is they are build for multiple applications and while they might be in the "range" for the OEM, they could be slightly below or slightly above, but without a lot of research it's hard to know a lot of times.

If I find an aftermarket option that is a known superior or even equal to OEM I have no problem using it as long as the price is lower. One example is the fuel filter for my Cummins in my 07 Dodge, I use a Baldwin as it is proven to have a better micron rating then a lot of aftermarket and is even slightly better then the OEM but cost less and has been easier to get then the Fleetgaurds. For oil filter it has a Baldwin on it now but I'll run any quality filter on it.

I have been using less Wix over the past few years, had a few issues with bad filters out of the box (low oil pressure). Part of the reason I started cutting filters open.

Sent from my SM-G715U1 using TractorByNet mobile app

 

[RickB]

So is it just filters? Or do you purchase all the fluids that you change from the dealer, in other words all OEM fluids, oil, trans hydraulic, anti freeze, etc.

That depends on the particular fluid and application. Some, but not all the fluids I use are OEM. Some OEM fluid recommendations are for fluids available from sources other than the OEM dealer. Some applications I use a generic fluid.

 

[workinonit]

So is it just filters? Or do you purchase all the fluids that you change from the dealer, in other words all OEM fluids, oil, trans hydraulic, anti freeze, etc.

I buy everything OEM. It's honestly not worth the difference in price for me. One stop shop as well. I found out years ago that JD lawn mower blades and belts outlast any aftewrmarket out there. I would imagine if you haul your tractor to the dealer with a warranty engine issue one of the first questions to answer is if it has OEM filters.

 

[rScotty]

So is it just filters? Or do you purchase all the fluids that you change from the dealer, in other words all OEM fluids, oil, trans hydraulic, anti freeze, etc.

Always on filters. There may be others just as good but there is no way you and I can know that.

But it depends on the tractor and the technology. For our John Deere 310SG I used to use Rotella CD 15w-40 in the engne and JD J20 type Hy-Gard for trans/hydraulic fluid.

But recently JD made some changes to their OEM JD 5w-30 engine oil and OK'd it for trans/hydraulic use.
So I went back to OEM. 20 gallons & all the same oil.

For the coolant I go OEM to get known compatibility with the JD seal & gasket system. JD is known for continually tinkering with their seal and gasket technology, so for anyone with a newer JD it is a no brainer to stick with OEM coolant.

For our old JD 530, I use whatever oil I have of any weight and try to change it every decade.
rScotty

 

[Oaktree]

Exactly, engine oil filters typically have a wider exceptable range then hydraulic and modern diesel fuel filters. I started cutting filters open a number of years ago for inspection and to see the build quality. For my tractors, both HST, I use OEM for the hyd and trans, even the engine oil since it's the same price as a quality aftermarket.

I don't have any choice but to go with an OEM hydraulic filter for my LK3054...I've never found any cross reference for it. I can't imagine there's anything unique about it, and I'm sure someone makes an equivalent but documentation on the older Kiotis is sparse. Don't remember what I did with the JD I had before it.

I've always believed that if you avoid the cheap-o filters, and change fluids regularly you should be fine.

 

[lman]

I don't have any choice but to go with an OEM hydraulic filter for my LK3054...I've never found any cross reference for it. I can't imagine there's anything unique about it, and I'm sure someone makes an equivalent but documentation on the older Kiotis is sparse. Don't remember what I did with the JD I had before it.

I've always believed that if you avoid the cheap-o filters, and change fluids regularly you should be fine.

Amazon.com: WIX Filters - 51381 Spin-On Lube Filter, Pack of 1 : Automotive

Rating: - reviews. Buy WIX Filters - 51381 Spin-On Lube Filter, Pack of 1 on Amazon.com and confirm correct fitment online.

www.amazon.com

 

[RickB]

View attachment 723219

Amazon.com: WIX Filters - 51381 Spin-On Lube Filter, Pack of 1 : Automotive

Rating: - reviews. Buy WIX Filters - 51381 Spin-On Lube Filter, Pack of 1 on Amazon.com and confirm correct fitment online.

www.amazon.com

Exactly how folks get in trouble with aftermarket filters. Are you attempting to show Oaktree where he can get a Wix hydraulic filter for his Kioti? Or are you showing that Wix has no hydraulic filter to fit it?

 

[Robin Veerman]

Lman, You missed “OEM hydraulic filter” …

 

[rScotty]

Exactly how folks get in trouble with aftermarket filters. Are you attempting to show Oaktree where he can get a Wix hydraulic filter for his Kioti? Or are you showing that Wix has no hydraulic filter to fit it?

Wow. Nice catch. I've noticed that lately a lot of hydraulic and engine filters are in similar canisters and use the same mounting system. That makes it even easier to make that mistake.
rScotty

 

[Larry D Johnson]

The Kubota guy needs a little more information before he should put out videos. First it is completely misunderstood that the oil goes through the filter each time it cycles. There is no way that 50 or 60 psi oil pressure is going to make it through that filter in enough quantity to lube the engine and it's not designed that way. In the image that I attached you can see a round plug. The filter bypass spring is under that plug. All are not in the filter housing but there is one somewhere. They are normally set to 3 to 5 psi. All the rest of the oil bypasses the filter by design. It takes many cycles of the oil for it all to pass through the filter. The spring inside the filter is mostly there in case the filter comes completely plugged. Next is the micron rating. I notice there is no talk about nominal or absolute. When I bought my new RAM Cummins pickup I thought the fuel filter from the dealer was a bit much. They are at a very low micron rating. I emailed every company I could find thst made fuel filters for it and asked if their micron rating was nominal or absolute. Most did not bother to even answer. Some answered nominal and only Baldwin and another (can't remember) was absolute. Allow me to exaggerate like crazy so that everybody understands what nominal means. Let's say that you took chicken wire and filtered oil through it. Then with magnification you could see that some 50 micron particles collected on the wire. You could then say that your filter is 50 micron. Of course that's a gross exaggeration. Absolute on the other had means what it says. It is a question that many filter companies don't want to answer. The Cummins filter I talked about is very fine 4 or 5 micron. Baldwin said outright that their filter was no finer than the factor spec. It did have more holding capacity to catch crap.

 

[JWR]

Iirc, a 1064 had less holes and was taller compared to a 1334 just like your pic shows.

Maybe wix 'consolidating' filters??

Both work on the 790 and the Hyundai Santa fe we use to own...

And on all 3 of my Kubota B2150s whose oils I just changed last month.

 

[RickB]

The Kubota guy needs a little more information before he should put out videos. First it is completely misunderstood that the oil goes through the filter each time it cycles. There is no way that 50 or 60 psi oil pressure is going to make it through that filter in enough quantity to lube the engine and it's not designed that way. In the image that I attached you can see a round plug. The filter bypass spring is under that plug. All are not in the filter housing but there is one somewhere. They are normally set to 3 to 5 psi. All the rest of the oil bypasses the filter by design. It takes many cycles of the oil for it all to pass through the filter. The spring inside the filter is mostly there in case the filter comes completely plugged. Next is the micron rating. I notice there is no talk about nominal or absolute. When I bought my new RAM Cummins pickup I thought the fuel filter from the dealer was a bit much. They are at a very low micron rating. I emailed every company I could find thst made fuel filters for it and asked if their micron rating was nominal or absolute. Most did not bother to even answer. Some answered nominal and only Baldwin and another (can't remember) was absolute. Allow me to exaggerate like crazy so that everybody understands what nominal means. Let's say that you took chicken wire and filtered oil through it. Then with magnification you could see that some 50 micron particles collected on the wire. You could then say that your filter is 50 micron. Of course that's a gross exaggeration. Absolute on the other had means what it says. It is a question that many filter companies don't want to answer. The Cummins filter I talked about is very fine 4 or 5 micron. Baldwin said outright that their filter was no finer than the factor spec. It did have more holding capacity to catch crap.

100% of the oil that passes through the relief valve of a full flow oil system returns directly to the sump. 100% of the oil circulated through the engine components of a full flow system has passed through the filter.
Filters with an internal bypass are a different story, not all engine oil filters have bypass valves. Those valves allow oil to pass through the filter but not the filter media. In filter bypass valves typically open only when the oil is very cold and viscous or the media is plugged.

 

[DutchInNZ]

I have been busy for a while in the car and truck industry, and I have no reason to believe that with tractors things are different. Each OEM of whatever part gets a contract in which it is stipulated how many items at which price he has to supply and the assembler, because that is what car companies nowadays are, guarantees a certain minimum quantity. That is the base load for every supplier and that takes care of the break-even point, where the costs are covered but no profit is yet been made. Dependent on their negotiating abilities, sometimes they manage to make a small profit on top of that. Additional to that base load, each supplier gets the right to produce the same product with the same specifications but without the car brand name or part number, for selling under his own name at higher prices to spare parts shops, and that is where the actual profit is made. These OEM replacements can easily be identified by them looking exactly the same as the original ones, be it without the part number and sometimes with a different colour. That is why so many non-originally branded parts are not worse or better than the branded ones.

 

[RickB]

Relying on external appearance to convince oneself that the internal construction, filter media composition and surface area is identical to another similarly outwardly appearing filter is a common but foolish mistake. One that filter manufacturers are very happy for consumers to make.

 

[MiserableOldFart]

So is it just filters? Or do you purchase all the fluids that you change from the dealer, in other words all OEM fluids, oil, trans hydraulic, anti freeze, etc.

I absolutely use the OEM hydro fluid because mixing fluids can cause problems. Also use OEM filters, but not OEM engine oil. For engine oil, I use Shell synthetic. It's hard to get the OEM engine oil for New Hollands, as many dealers don't even carry it. My Kubota lawn tractor gets all OEM filters and OEM hydro fluid as well.
Everything I read says mixing hydro fluids is a recipe for disaster, and I believe it.

 

[rScotty]

I absolutely use the OEM hydro fluid because mixing fluids can cause problems. Also use OEM filters, but not OEM engine oil. For engine oil, I use Shell synthetic. It's hard to get the OEM engine oil for New Hollands, as many dealers don't even carry it. My Kubota lawn tractor gets all OEM filters and OEM hydro fluid as well.
Everything I read says mixing hydro fluids is a recipe for disaster, and I believe it.

I haven't seen or heard of mixing hydro fluids as being a source of trouble. If it was a big problem, why wouldn't we see or hear of more problems with hydraulically powered rental equipment? There's a whole industry built around rentals, and everything that rents has a different fluid in it from the last user.

I don't like to mix fluids myself, but I think that most fluids are compatible - apparently I haven't read what you have. How about a link?

Filters are a different story. I'd want to see a new filter on anything I rented.
rScotty