Need a disc lesson

   / Need a disc lesson #11  
RalphVa said:
The old way of working dirt on the farm was with plow, disc and then harrow, often pulling harrow behind the disc.

And when you're done, you should have nice fluffy soil for the first 3-6" deep, and soilcrete below that. I say this from personal experience; if I have to disk an area more than twice - and I usually do the garden several times - my last pass over the area is with a scarifier to loose things back up. A chisel plow or subsoiler would be just as good; but none of these will leave a smooth finish.

I agree with Ralph and others that a fine finish can be had with a RR tie, or a straight log, or a chain harrow if you have one. In our garden we plant by hand so a fine finish isn't needed. If I were doing a large area I would probably try to disk once with disk alone, then a second time with the disk pulling my chain harrow, and stop at those two passes. Maybe my soil is more prone to compaction than some, but multiple passes create a lot of compaction below 3-6" in my soil.
 
   / Need a disc lesson #12  
Z-Michigan said:
And when you're done, you should have nice fluffy soil for the first 3-6" deep, and soilcrete below that.

Maybe my soil is more prone to compaction than some, but multiple passes create a lot of compaction below 3-6" in my soil.

My soil is like that too. High clay content. Was surprised to find this in a small patch I plowed and disked for some sweet corn. And I had made many passes like you say. The plow had gotten a good 6-8" down. Disked it up and it looked and felt pretty good. A week later, after a rain, maybe 3" then 'soilcrete'. Problem is, many passes are required to break up the clods of clay. Not much you can do about it. If I get one edible ear out of that stuff I should definitely get the Farmer of the Year award.:D

Further down the hill where it is a little more sandy, it isn't the case. I can poke a stick way down in that stuff and it got disked pretty heavily....of course it is 'soilcrete' below that...but that was there long before I plowed it.
 
   / Need a disc lesson #13  
drz400 said:
The disc is a MF 25 tandem. It does have adjusting levers for the front and back gangs.Maybe I need to adjust so they are even. Thanks

The #25 MF disc is one of the best 3-point mounted disc's there ever was as far as leaving a nice level seedbed, IF set properly. You DON'T want it set full tilt aggressive, especially so once you have the ground loosened up a bit. Front gangs should be either one OR two notches from full cut, and the rear gangs one position LESS than the front. If you set the disc down while on a hard surface (driveway?) the front gangs should touch first, with the rear about half an inch off the deck.

As far as USING the disc, try your best to make successive passes at angles to previous ones. Go north/south, then swap to east/west. Repeatedly going over at the same angle will cause ridging with even the very best disc. The heavy drag behind the disc is also a good idea. I've always used a section of railroad rail. Anything H.E.A.V.Y. and straight will do the trick.
 

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   / Need a disc lesson #14  
Here is a picture of my first time plowing and discing. There was a week from plowing before I disced.
 

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   / Need a disc lesson #15  
sunspot said:
Here is a picture of my first time plowing and discing. There was a week from plowing before I disced.
SS, if it rained between your plowing and discing, you did a great job. I've started plowing before, got rained out and gone back to disk and it took forever to bust the clods up and get it smooth. Farmwith listed a huge mistake I was making too, my harrows have cutting disk on the front and smoothing disc on the rear, I learned to set the smoothing disc a less aggressive than my cutting disk, that helps a lot, just keep on keeping on with the harrows and that soil will look like suger before long
 
   / Need a disc lesson #16  
Farmwithjunk said:
The #25 MF disc is one of the best 3-point mounted disc's there ever was as far as leaving a nice level seedbed, IF set properly.

FWJ here are the two that my local dealer have that I down to choosing between...:rolleyes:

$2975 for the 10 FT MF 520 or $3000 for the 8FT White 252...

Care to throw your TWO CENTS in?
 

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   / Need a disc lesson #17  
PaulChristenson said:
FWJ here are the two that my local dealer have that I down to choosing between...:rolleyes:

$2975 for the 10 FT MF 520 or $3000 for the 8FT White 252...

Care to throw your TWO CENTS in?


@ approx. $3000 each, $.02 won't help you much...;)

I've always preferred International Harvester wheel disc's, but that's not the question is it? Between the pair, I like the LOOKS of the White. Any idea what sort of weight we're talking about (with either)

MF had a good rep with a few disc models, but sort of a neutral rep over-all. White, clear back to the Oliver days, has a sterling rep on tillage equipment. With AGCO owning BOTH nowdays, there may be little difference between the pair.
 
   / Need a disc lesson #18  
N80 said:
Further down the hill where it is a little more sandy, it isn't the case. I can poke a stick way down in that stuff and it got disked pretty heavily....of course it is 'soilcrete' below that...but that was there long before I plowed it.

That soilcrete is a good thing down there. It'll keep the moisture near the surface a bit longer between rains. It beats some areas where we might have 40' of sugar sand on top of a hill. But this probably helps feed the springs around the place.
 
 

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