Need Advice about this Truck...

[aczlan]

The seller told me that he replaced the starter and the glow plugs a few weeks ago.

Ask specifically about the Glow Plug relay. It is hefty relay which costs $70-150 and can fail erratically (on my parents truck, it would glow when the truck was cold, but when you went to restart it (like after a test drive to load it onto a trailer and take it home) it would not engage the glowplugs which caused the truck not to start). They lost 3-4 sales due to that relay before they figured what was up

Aaron Z

 

[Diamondpilot]

All good advise. Biggest issue is the GVWR on these trucks, its low.

Chris

 

[JB4310]

Save your money on the dually extension kit. That truck will pull the tractor that you would like to tow with no problems as is.

I agree, totally unnecessary, and just making more headaches for yourself.

That's why I said just leave the body on, keep it simple, you wont get much for it, then your gonna build a wood bed? If you really don't like the look of the utility body, which I know some don't, then see if you could trade it for a stock bed, or some how get the stock bed for it.

I guess that engine is not controlled by ECM/PCM? if so and is as simple as some have mentioned then it should serve your needs, and be easy to get it up and running when you need it, as opposed to having to monitor every function and system with life support (OBD type annylizer). As long as the little piddley stuff doesn't add up to a big PITA.

JB.

 

[JB4310]

All good advise. Biggest issue is the GVWR on these trucks, its low.

Chris

But why? Those old trucks were built with better components than the new ones.

He's only talking about towing an extra 3 tons with tractor and trailer.

If it is an issue though, he would definitly want to lose the service body, those things are heavy and will kill any GVW reserve.

I've had 2 of them (utility bodies) on both SRW and DRW trucks. With tools and just a little supplies both were right at gvw with very little reserve.

Ever wonder why they have 6 inch high tail gates?

JB.

 

[Diamondpilot]

But why? Those old trucks were built with better components than the new ones.

He's only talking about towing an extra 3 tons with tractor and trailer.

If it is an issue though, he would definitly want to lose the service body, those things are heavy and will kill any GVW reserve.

I've had 2 of them (utility bodies) on both SRW and DRW trucks. With tools and just a little supplies both were right at gvw with very little reserve.

Ever wonder why they have 6 inch high tail gates?

JB.

I was short with my response because I was on my phone.

No way these trucks were made better than todays. Everybody is making better stuff today then they did 3 years ago and especially 20 years ago.

A issue using a 3/4 ton with utility bed or heavy flat bed is the GVWR. The aftermarket beds are heavy and can put you over weight before you hitch up a trailer. If I remember correctly these had a max GVWR of about 8,500#, some were 8,800# but that still not much. The truck with a diesel is going to be about 7,300# back then. You are left with 1,200#. I have seen 3/4 ton trucks that had less than 800# of payload. They work fine for running around as a service truck but when you attach a trailer of any weight its easy to get them overweight. Just wanted him to look at it and watch it.

But you already know all that, I just wanted to make sure the OP does also.

Chris

 

[JB4310]

I was short with my response because I was on my phone.

No way these trucks were made better than todays. Everybody is making better stuff today then they did 3 years ago and especially 20 years ago.

A issue using a 3/4 ton with utility bed or heavy flat bed is the GVWR. The aftermarket beds are heavy and can put you over weight before you hitch up a trailer. If I remember correctly these had a max GVWR of about 8,500#, some were 8,800# but that still not much. The truck with a diesel is going to be about 7,300# back then. You are left with 1,200#. I have seen 3/4 ton trucks that had less than 800# of payload. They work fine for running around as a service truck but when you attach a trailer of any weight its easy to get them overweight. Just wanted him to look at it and watch it.

But you already know all that, I just wanted to make sure the OP does also.

Chris

Yeah I see what your saying, when I first equipped my 95 ram 2500 srw, 8ft utility body with hd ladder rack and tools I went right to the quarry to weigh it and couldn't believe it. Thought to myself man I gotta leave my helper and my lunch pail at home.

I immediatly thought I got the wrong truck and should of got DRW, I beefed the springs and had a 1 ton axle due to the CTD option, but what I found at the time was that the tires limited the weight capacity, had the highest rated tires at the time and that was the limit for single rear wheels.

Has that changed alot, how do they get much higher gvw out of the newer srw trucks?

That 95 went 12 years overloaded by at least a little, I thought about it all the time, but never had a problem. The new 07 3500 is so close to GVW everyday and I'm sure overweight some days, but at least with duals there is a much greater safety factor.

I still think OP would be ok as long as he didn't load up that utility body, he's only gonna have 1/4 ton max tongue weight.

JB.

 

[miramadar]

A issue using a 3/4 ton with utility bed or heavy flat bed is the GVWR. The aftermarket beds are heavy and can put you over weight before you hitch up a trailer. If I remember correctly these had a max GVWR of about 8,500#, some were 8,800# but that still not much. The truck with a diesel is going to be about 7,300# back then. You are left with 1,200#. I have seen 3/4 ton trucks that had less than 800# of payload. They work fine for running around as a service truck but when you attach a trailer of any weight its easy to get them overweight. Just wanted him to look at it and watch it.

But you already know all that, I just wanted to make sure the OP does also.

Chris

Great advice guys. I will ask about the GVWR before I make the trip. It's about a 3 hour drive to it.

Thanks for talking me out of the DRW option. You guys make perfect sense. I plan now to just put some mud/snow tires on it. The terrain around here is pretty rugged. I guess I would need a 10-ply tire?

No way these trucks were made better than todays. Everybody is making better stuff today then they did 3 years ago and especially 20 years ago.

If I could afford a newer model right now, I'd go for it. :drool: But you can't find a used F250/350 (extended cab, 4wd, diesel) newer than say '99 for less than $10k-$12k. My budget right now is about $5k...so I'm limited to older models. But this truck only has 108k miles. It's older, but seems to have been well taken care of by the pics.

 

[Diamondpilot]

My 06 F-350 SRW 4x4 has a GVWR of 11,500#. It weighs 7,600# with me in it and 3/4 tank of fuel so it has a honest payload of 3,900#. Its a beast compared to my 04 F-250 with 10,000# GVWR and the 05 GMC 3500 SRW I had with 9,900# GVWR.

On the 04 F-250 I run BFG's that are rated at 3,042# each.
All-Terrain T/A KO | BFGoodrich Tires

On the 06 F-350 I run these Toyo's in 275/70/18 and they are rated at 3,640# each.
OPEN COUNTRY A/T | Toyo Tires

Chris

 

[CompactTractorFan]

Leave the utility body, good for stowing tools and equipment, just don't overload it, which is easy to do with single wheels. They are heavy and will take away a little of your total GCWR, you still have plenty of reserve for what you need and the diesel wont feel it. I would just get rid of the rack.

I second that!!! A utility body is great for holding all those tools and things you need on the road. :thumbsup:

 

[Lt CHEG]

It's older, but seems to have been well taken care of by the pics.

I agree, it sure looks like a nice truck. I'd love to find an oldie but goodie like that around here, but the salt eats them up in no time flat. You never find a truck of that vintage in that kind of shape around here. Good luck with whatever you decide.