Need Advice about this Truck...

[miramadar]

And here's another pic for your viewing pleasure :thumbsup:.

 

[miramadar]

On the door pillar there will be a axle code. Sometimes its 2 numbers and sometimes its a letter and a number. Usually the 2 numbers are a open diff and the ones with a number and a letter are a limited slip. Get that code and post here and we can tell you what gear it has in it.

The axle code on the door post reads "39".

The GVWR is 9200#.

 

[JB4310]

The axle code on the door post reads "39".

The GVWR is 9200#.

Looks like it's the higher gears like you suspected.

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cat...d_ratio_do_i_have_in_my_ford__is_it_posi.html

This chart shows 3.55, non posi

JB.

 

[miramadar]

Looks like it's the higher gears like you suspected.

Looking for Something at Drivetrain.com? - Drivetrain.com

This chart shows 3.55, non posi

Thanks for the info.

Another question...I plan to tow my Kioti CK27, which weighs about 4400# w/ FEL. So, I'll be looking for a trailer. This truck has the bumper hitch and a hidden gooseneck hitch in the bed. Which type of trailer should I get? Bumper or gooseneck?

I have some implements that I'd haul with me...box blade, 2-bottom plow, middle buster and possibly a rototiller. I was thinking that a bumper hitch would be better because I would have the entire bed free to haul the implements. Advice??

 

[Dmace]

I would definitely go with a bumper pull trailer for that tractor and at least a 10k GVWR trailer. A 7k would do it but not leave much room for anything else.

 

[JB4310]

Thanks for the info.

Another question...I plan to tow my Kioti CK27, which weighs about 4400# w/ FEL. So, I'll be looking for a trailer. This truck has the bumper hitch and a hidden gooseneck hitch in the bed. Which type of trailer should I get? Bumper or gooseneck?

I have some implements that I'd haul with me...box blade, 2-bottom plow, middle buster and possibly a rototiller. I was thinking that a bumper hitch would be better because I would have the entire bed free to haul the implements. Advice??

I have no experiance with goose necks, but it sounds like for your needs that reciever hitch I see in this picture should be all you need. Maybe have it looked at by someone who knows towing to confirm that it would be rated for what you need. Looks like it to me from the picture.



Maybe a 4 or 5 ton equipment trailer, 16 - 18 feet.

JB.

 

[crashz]

Same advice as for the trailer. A good 10K lb bumper pull, 18 - 20ft would do nicely.

Looks a bit smokey at start-up. Does it idle rough when cold like that? Smooth once warmed up?

Most likely it needs a set of injectors. Get a good diesel shop to sell you a new or rebuilt set of balanced injectors. With new injectors, you might as well put a new injection pump in it as well, as low pop pressure and a poor spread pattern are usually hand -in - hand.

But the good news is that the cost of all of those parts will only cost about the same as one injector for a modern diesel truck. I will need to do injectors and a pump on my 6.2L diesel soon as well, and again, the parts are much cheaper than the modern stuff. I'm looking at about $350 for all eight injectors and about $500 for a rebuilt pump.

Another bit of good news is that the parts are worn, but the truck still runs. And will continue to run. It will just get a little smokier and harder to start. It most likely won't leave you stranded until the day the pump finally gives up.

Don't even look at the E-bay parts. Go to a reputable Stanadyne authorized repair shop.

There is also a remote chance on the 7.3L trucks that there could be a coolant leak through porous cylinder walls. I remember this being a problem on trucks that did not have regular coolant service, as the coolant would age and begin to cavitate at the cylinder walls, eventually erroding a hole into the combustion chamber. Monitor your coolant level and use the Ford collant additive and you will not have a problem.

Believe me when I say that the 7.3L Internationals were some of the best old school diesels offered in pick-ups of that era along with the Cummins. They have decent power (but not too much) and are very reliable. Sooooo much better than the block cracking, head cracking, crank throwing POS 6.2L that GM/Detroit dared to curse customers with.

 

[miramadar]

Looks a bit smokey at start-up. Does it idle rough when cold like that? Smooth once warmed up?

It idles rough for about 5 seconds after start-up. After than, smooth. The smoke lasts much longer though.

There is also a remote chance on the 7.3L trucks that there could be a coolant leak through porous cylinder walls. I remember this being a problem on trucks that did not have regular coolant service, as the coolant would age and begin to cavitate at the cylinder walls, eventually erroding a hole into the combustion chamber. Monitor your coolant level and use the Ford collant additive and you will not have a problem.

The previous owner was aware of the cavitation problem in these engines, and he told me that he always used the additive. I will continue to do so as well.

I have no experiance with goose necks, but it sounds like for your needs that reciever hitch I see in this picture should be all you need. Maybe have it looked at by someone who knows towing to confirm that it would be rated for what you need. Looks like it to me from the picture.

My brother-in-law, who works for the Highway Dept. in KY and is very well versed with equipment and trailers, said that the bumper hitch could use a little beefing up. He wasn't so much concerned with straight downward force of the trailer, but the torque that was created during braking that could cause the whole hitch/step of the bed to cave inwards towards the cab of the truck. He recommended welding a couple of braces on each side to help strengthen it. In the pic below you can see that the single arm on each side is really all that holds the hitch receiver assembly. As constructed, it should be plenty strong for downward force. But the lateral forces might be an issue.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree about that hitch. A few braces will make it rock solid.

Chris

 

[miramadar]

Don't even look at the E-bay parts. Go to a reputable Stanadyne authorized repair shop.

I found this site online. Have any of you ever used this site to purchase diesel parts?

Diesel Care Inc