Need Advice Ford 1700 Upper Radiator Hose Burst

[Justadudewithatractor]

Hi All,

First, I'm a complete diesel tractor noob, but I'm handy! This tractor hasn't been in use for 5-6 years. I've drained the gas, changed the oil, new glow plugs, new battery and drained the radiator(all according to the specs found here). I had to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses and got my molded upper hose online and was an easy install. Yesterday was the day of glory - started the tractor and used it to work on my mother-in-law's 7 acre farm. On and off the tractor over an hour and noticed some wetness on the right side. Put the tractor back in the shop and when I popped the hood and found the place of origin, it was the upper hose, behind the air filter. I'm guessing the air filter housing was pressing on the hose.

Some more info - When I got my hands on the tractor, the hood was bent because the front loader had come down on it while the hood was open. I had it pounded out and when I try and close the hood, the air filter is not completely aligning with the hole in the hood. I'm working on different configurations to make it work.

Thanks!

 

[oosik]

Welcome to TBN and the forum. Something sure as heck was bearing down on your hose. Good thing - you know exactly where to get a new hose and it should be fairly easy to determine exactly what caused the hole and take corrective actions. My first tractor - brand new 1982 Ford 1700 4WD. It was a great tractor. Kept it for 27 years - traded it in for a new Kubota M6040 in 2009.

 

[JC-jetro]

Welcome to TBN. Oil bath air filter should be at least 1" above the upper radiator hose as the picture depicts. I suggest you look at the mounting of canister and see if it dropped some or you can raise some. Tight hose clamp should make it snug enough in order to avoid leakage when tractor is hot. You can potentially dab a thin coat of RTV silicon (high temp) on the radiator upper pipe, let it skin a bit after 5 minutes and then install the hose and clamp it gutentight and hopefully you should be good to go,

 

[Justadudewithatractor]

Welcome to TBN. Oil bath air filter should be at least 1" above the upper radiator hose as the picture depicts. I suggest you look at the mounting of canister and see if it dropped some or you can raise some. Tight hose clamp should make it snug enough in order to avoid leakage when tractor is hot. You can potentially dab a thin coat of RTV silicon (high temp) on the radiator upper pipe, let it skin a bit after 5 minutes and then install the hose and clamp it gutentight and hopefully you should be good to go,

THANK YOU JC!! Exactly what I was looking for!

Heading down to the shop to start working on it!

Cheers

_______________

JC, I have an update that I'll post as a reply to this.

Thanks!

 

[Justadudewithatractor]

Update!

I lifted the air filter by 1/2" above the coolant hole on the engine and can go higher(Pics 1,2). The issue I have now is the hood. In the original post I stated that the front loader bent the hood a few years ago. I removed the hood and took it to a metal shop which pounded out the dents(Pics 8,9). They did a good job compared to what it looked like but the air filter is about 5" from where it should be(Pics 3,4,5,6,7). When looking down the right side of the tractor the hood is approximately 2" from the radiator(Pic 11). The height of the hood in the right side front is approximately 22"(Pic 10). I'm wondering how far from the radiator should the hood be on the side?

My guess is that if I have it hammered in from the right(and left) side some more, that will raise the hood(hopefully enough) for the air filter to fit in the hole.

Another thought is to raise the hood from the hinges an inch or so. My only issue is this - I'm skeptical that where the hood bolts meet the hinge bar can take being pulled apart, seeing the rust.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[JC-jetro]

I have to go and work on our turkey and all the fixings but can go to the barn and make any measurement you need later on this afternoon. What caught my eyes was pic #5, the intake hole on the air filter must line up with the hole in the hood so it could accept the filter cap. The filter cap just screws on the top of air filter to not allow rain and water entry in the filter section and the oil bath. Do you have the cap for the air filter? It might have gotten destroyed with the loader snafu. you need to line up the hole in the hood assembly somehow to the intake hole on on the filter intake. they need to line up. When the hood is down then I have about 1/4" to 1/2" between the hood and top of the filter assembly. These are my old pics , I can snap more strategic pic for more clarification. just let me know.

JC,

 

[kirkawilson]

Your air filter housing almost looks like my NH1920 housing that has a pre-filter section built in. If so, I don't think you need the pre-filter cap/hat section that penetrates the hood.

 

[JC-jetro]

Your air filter housing almost looks like my NH1920 housing that has a pre-filter section built in. If so, I don't think you need the pre-filter cap/hat section that penetrates the hood.

That pre-filter as you call it is just an insect screen and also big contaminants such as leaves. The purpose of it to not allow water penetration in the bowl of oil that does the filtering. It really needs to be in place.

JC,

 

[Justadudewithatractor]

I have to go and work on our turkey and all the fixings but can go to the barn and make any measurement you need later on this afternoon. What caught my eyes was pic #5, the intake hole on the air filter must line up with the hole in the hood so it could accept the filter cap. The filter cap just screws on the top of air filter to not allow rain and water entry in the filter section and the oil bath. Do you have the cap for the air filter? It might have gotten destroyed with the loader snafu. you need to line up the hole in the hood assembly somehow to the intake hole on on the filter intake. they need to line up. When the hood is down then I have about 1/4" to 1/2" between the hood and top of the filter assembly. These are my old pics , I can snap more strategic pic for more clarification. just let me know.

JC,

JC, Thank you so much for your time! I'm in no rush, the lower radiator hose won't be here until Monday.

I do have the filter cap. I believe the hood was bent when it was up/away from the tractor. I'm looking for a pic from the side with the hood like the photo attached. I'm thinking of taking the hood back to the metal shop and have them hammer the side of the hood in further. I'm hoping that will raise/bend the top of the hood so it will slip over the air filter, if that makes sense. Right now when the hood comes down and it is bowing out slightly on both sides. I attached three pics with a pencil pointing at what I think is the issue.

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, Thank you so much for your time! I'm in no rush, the lower radiator hose won't be here until Monday.

I do have the filter cap. I believe the hood was bent when it was up/away from the tractor. I'm looking for a pic from the side with the hood like the photo attached. I'm thinking of taking the hood back to the metal shop and have them hammer the side of the hood in further. I'm hoping that will raise/bend the top of the hood so it will slip over the air filter, if that makes sense. Right now when the hood comes down and it is bowing out slightly on both sides. I attached three pics with a pencil pointing at what I think is the issue.

Happy Thanksgiving!


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Happy Thanksgiving to you and whoever celebrates it here and abroad, specially this year !!!

I did go to the barn for a quick look, the air filter top does have and indentation on the right side mating with the hood curvature. The tolerance between under side of the hood and top of the air filter top is about 1/4" at best but it is not touching it. My suggestion to you is to do the work yourself. if you a 4 lb hammer , few 2x4 on the floor and striking it right you can do it. does not need to be very pretty. Better than that , you can buy a sheet body repair kit from Harbor Freight and it has enough hammer and dollies to match the curvature of the rest of the hood. You will most likely able to pound it out without hood removal hopefully. Make sure to download 20% coupon. I guess I bought mine fro around $20 and it already paid for itself using it once.

JC,

PS. I looked at the pic you posted again and I think you can do it with the kit from HF. You might push , pull or bend at the hing also. Boady shop will have a hard time without tractor there. Again , your reference need to be the hole on the hood and intake pipe on the upper filter bowl. The pipe needs to at the center of the hole on the hood.

Body And Fender Set, 7 Pc.