Need advice / lesson on welding thin steel

[LD1]

I agree.. 1/8 and up I still weld on my hobart 235.. much thinner.. like real sheet metal.. etc.. I switch over to the 30/70 stick and the smaller 1/16 and 5/64 rods..e tc...


may pick up a tube of 7014 at lunch and make some test welds vs 6013 this weekend to see how it looks. walmart has 1# or whatever those lil flat pack holders have in them.. 1/4# or whatever...7014 in stock in 3/32.. so if I don't like it.. nothing much wasted..

soundguy

Keep us posted. I think you will like how they run:thumbsup:

 

[k0ua]

Keep us posted. I think you will like how they run:thumbsup:

Remember 7014 likes to be run a little hotter, and lays down more bead quicker..

James K0UA

 

[woodlandfarms]

I have really appreciated the advice so far but you guys are right about thin. I would love to work thinner like sheet metal and would love to here more about any tecniques that are not covered here so far

Carl

 

[k0ua]

I have really appreciated the advice so far but you guys are right about thin. I would love to work thinner like sheet metal and would love to here more about any tecniques that are not covered here so far

Carl

Well when we are talking much under 14 gauge or so is time to put away the stick rig for most people.. I have had some success with 6013 and 1/16 inch rods at around 25 amps. but it gets tricky. If you welder is DC you can get into lift start TIG fairly reasonable. Or get a MIG setup. Or break out the OA torch and a small welding tip and practice with that. Or Braze it.

James K0UA

 

[flusher]

Remember 7014 likes to be run a little hotter, and lays down more bead quicker..

James K0UA

Also, 7014 is a drag rod (aka farmer's rod)--you get the arc going and, with the rod at a 30 deg angle or so, keep the end of the rod in contact with the workpiece as you form the bead. The flux melts and forms a molten slag layer that maintains the arc gap length sorta automatically as you drag the rod along. 7024 is a drag rod also.

 

[undercut]

I agree.. 1/8 and up I still weld on my hobart 235.. much thinner.. like real sheet metal.. etc.. I switch over to the 30/70 stick and the smaller 1/16 and 5/64 rods..e tc...


may pick up a tube of 7014 at lunch and make some test welds vs 6013 this weekend to see how it looks. walmart has 1# or whatever those lil flat pack holders have in them.. 1/4# or whatever...7014 in stock in 3/32.. so if I don't like it.. nothing much wasted..

soundguy

I'd love to hear about your results as well. I'm trying to keep the metal stock I use thicker than 1/16" so it seems to match what I'm hearing everyone saying. Thanks everyone!

 

[rankrank1]

I love 7014, but I do not use it on the really thin stuff as 7014 likes higher amp settings than other comparable rods, but it is a real easy rod to use and burns oh so sweet on AC or DC. Idiot rod that almost welds itself which is why I like it. If all you have is an AC buzzbox then you will love 7014.

6011 has been mentioned and also identified as deep penetration rod of which it is. But it is also, a fast freezing rod and some welders have wonderful success using the fast freeze properties of 6011 to weld thin metal by moving quickly (I am not very good with 6011 though on thin stuff as the deep pentration properties always win out. My hack skill level does not let me utilize the fast freeze properties).

For me give me some 6013 for thin stuff if a wire feeder is not available. Really the only diameters of 6013 that I stock are 3/32 (3/32=6/64), 5/64, and 1/16 (1/16=4/64). 3/32" is cheap and readily availalble anywhere. I really like the 5/64" diameter for even thinner stuff although it is a bit more expensive. 5/64" rods are shorter in length and not flimsy so decently easy to use. If I have to use 1/16" on the the thinnest of metals then I often cut them in half as 1/16" rods are otherwise like trying to weld with a noodle. Cutting them in half greatly helps the flimsiness.

Since you also have DC, go to straight Polarity (i.e the stinger - and the work +). 6013 burns great on straight polarity and penetrates the least in this polarity cofiguration.

1/8" thick metal should be easily weldable with 3/32" diameter as you go thinner with say 1/16" thick metal or 16 gauge then you will be using either the 5/64" or 1/16" diameter rods. Much thinner than 16 gauge then you are in wire feeder territory unless you are really skilled.

 

[Soundguy]

got the rods.. just been too busy to find something to burn them on..

 

[LD1]

got the rods.. just been too busy to find something to burn them on..

No hurry

 

[dstig1]

In my experience...I have tried 1/8" 6013 and 7014 on 1/8" steel tube. It is pushing it for those of us not highly skilled... You are probably better off trying 3/32" on those instead. It is pretty easy to burn through with 1/8" rods on 1/* steel. The rule of thumb I was given was that the welding rod should be no more than, and preferably LESS THAN the thickness of the work. I haven't used a lot of 3/32" but I have used it successfully to weld expanded metal to a frame before I got my MIG.

Start with 3/32" rod for 1/8" steel and you should have a better chance at success.