Need Advice on Ag-tractor Backhoe-based Stump Removal

[Nat]

I also agree with Eddie's approach, would just add that when you have dug down beside the stump it works well to tilt the tractor using the outriggers so that you ar digging under the stump. That in effect makes an inverted cone of dirt and stump. It weighs less and is easier to break free from the ground around it. Someone mentioned using the bucket curl, good advice, set the bucket flat on the bottom and curl the bucket. Once it starts to stall push out on the dipper stick while still trying to curl the bucket. It will multiply the breakout force many times. HTH, later, Nat

 

[Dougster]

I've got a Woods 9000 which is very close to the 509 for reach, power etc.. You've got some good advise so far and getting leverage is important. Trying to use the boom or dipper to pull on it isn't very powerfull. Using the bucket curl is strong and using the ground as a leverage point and curling the bucket is very strong. Try to get one tooth, I use a 12" bucket, on the root to break it loose. Use the ground as a leverage point. If it doesn't break just dig out a little farther and try again. Same idea for popping out the root ball, use the ground and curl.

Thanks very much. Yes, the original owner of my tractor knew I'd be doing lots of stumps and taught me well the power of bucket curl. I don't seem to have mastered it yet though, perhaps the result of using too much spraydown water so I can get the chainsaws in there. I end up with a puddle and saturated clay soil... no bearing strength at all.

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

A neighbor near me has one of these (and a new 100hp Kubota) it is awesome! It looks like they make smaller ones or you could see if there is another owner in your area that would come and grind up your property for you. You could always buy one use it and re-sell it fairly quickly for a small cost.

Gotta admit that I can't figure out exactly what it does and how it works. I better stick to simple (and cheaper!) solutions!

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

I also agree with Eddie's approach, would just add that when you have dug down beside the stump it works well to tilt the tractor using the outriggers so that you are digging under the stump. That in effect makes an inverted cone of dirt and stump. It weighs less and is easier to break free from the ground around it. Someone mentioned using the bucket curl, good advice, set the bucket flat on the bottom and curl the bucket. Once it starts to stall push out on the dipper stick while still trying to curl the bucket. It will multiply the breakout force many times. HTH, later, Nat

Great advice Nat. Thanks very much. I have already been trying to use the slope of the land to my advantage, but I always put the outriggers all the way down for maximum stability and mechanical advantage. I'll give this a try on my next "level" stump!

Dougster

 

[Raddad]

I've tried various hammers from Hilti and Bosch to cut roots or to pound in wooden silt fence. The wood absorbs the impact to much. On the roots we ground a wide chisel to look like a wood chisel and found the root too springy. For steel stakes or ground rods they work great. I have used these hammers to drive 1 1/4 in well points very effectivly. You would be amazed how fast a Bosch brute drives the well point and how hot the washers we used on top of the pipe got. It's one of many lessons I only had to learn once.

I use a 13 amp. Porter Cable reciprocating saw for cutting the roots just support them from underneath with a scrap of wood. I still brush off as much dirt as possible and use very corse blades. The blades are cheep and easy to sharpen on my 1" x 42" belt sander. You can also use the edge of an ordinary belt sander but remember to remove the dust collector bag when grinding steel. Trust me, that's another hard earned lesson when I started the bag on fire! I have also used my circular saw, although when it binds it can kick back.

Now that I think of it I have learned many lessons the hard way. It reminds me of the family creed my dad passed on to his sons and I on to mine. " It's important you boys tell your sons in our family we never make the same mistake 3 times"

 

[Dougster]

I've tried various hammers from Hilti and Bosch to cut roots or to pound in wooden silt fence. The wood absorbs the impact to much. On the roots we ground a wide chisel to look like a wood chisel and found the root too springy. For steel stakes or ground rods they work great. I have used these hammers to drive 1 1/4 in well points very effectivly. You would be amazed how fast a Bosch brute drives the well point and how hot the washers we used on top of the pipe got. It's one of many lessons I only had to learn once.

I use a 13 amp. Porter Cable reciprocating saw for cutting the roots just support them from underneath with a scrap of wood. I still brush off as much dirt as possible and use very corse blades. The blades are cheep and easy to sharpen on my 1" x 42" belt sander. You can also use the edge of an ordinary belt sander but remember to remove the dust collector bag when grinding steel. Trust me, that's another hard earned lesson when I started the bag on fire! I have also used my circular saw, although when it binds it can kick back.

Now that I think of it I have learned many lessons the hard way. It reminds me of the family creed my dad passed on to his sons and I on to mine. " It's important you boys tell your sons in our family we never make the same mistake 3 times"

Thanks Raddad! I was hoping someone would pop in with some actual jackhammer-on-stumps/roots experience. Sounds like I should not waste my time or money. I'm going to try the advice of Eddie and others and simply try to dig deeper and be a lot more patient.

I'm also going to try to make an appointment to go out and watch some good sized stumps being removed by a full-sized CAT commercial backhoe owned by a former co-worker's brother's business. While not directly relevant to my Bradco 509, I'd like to observe the technique the pros use on larger stumps than mine and see if I can learn anything from it. Maybe I will learn nothing... or maybe I will come to the conclusion that I really need to buy a decent used construction-grade backhoe or excavator!!! Wouldn't that be fun!!!

Too bad neither would fit in my garage!!!

Dougster

 

[CTyler]

Depending on how big the CAT is you may be disapointed. I've watched good size Kumatsu(sp?) knock over and rip out large trees almost like they were saplings. Their just friggen Brutes!!! I mumbled a four letter word followed by "me" watching it.

 

[LBrown59]

One of my first projects w/ my 790/BH was stump removal.
Big douglas firs, with roots the size of small trees.

My tools; BH, chainsaw and the garden hose.
I would dig down below the root on both sides, then using garden hose nozzle, blast under and around the root till clean. Fire up the chain saw and slice and dice.

Even using this method, I still went thru a few blades for every stump. Darn rocks.I've got lurkeritis.

deleted

 

[Dougster]

Depending on how big the CAT is you may be disapointed. I've watched good size Kumatsu(sp?) knock over and rip out large trees almost like they were saplings. Their just friggen Brutes!!! I mumbled a four letter word followed by "me" watching it.

Oh Lordy!!! So maybe I did buy too small for my needs?

On the other hand, this was the largest TLB I could find that would actually fit in my (somewhat oversized) garage... and with a full 1/4 inch to spare no less.

But if what you're saying is that large BH technique is completely different from compact backhoe technique... well, you probably do have a good point there.

Dougster

 

[Defective]

Any BH can be used to effectively take down trees. It just takes time and thought to do it with a smaller one.

The big hoes have the power and leverage to rip trees out directly.

A small hoe has all the power & leverage needed to dig holes & make the trees fall down.

Heck! If you have the patience & energy, you can do it with a shovel. (I wouldn't...)

Anybody tells you your tractor is too small to get a job done hasn't thought it through. It may take extra time, but it's doable.

A bunch of years ago, I had a contractor put in a new septic system. In order to get his equipment in easier, I took down a couple of large beech trees at the edge of the driveway. He tried to point out what a mistake I'd made by cutting the stumps short. Said He couldn't pull the stumps if he couldn't get a chain on them. I suggested he drive the machines right over top & I'd get the stumps out while he was working in the yard.

I pulled both stumps (about 18" across the cut tops) before he stopped for lunch using a backhoe mounted on an 8N. One of his operators suggested that he (the boss) should be watching me & learning how to dig.